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Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 12/7/16 at 2:03 pm to BugAC
Posted on 12/7/16 at 2:03 pm to BugAC
quote:
1) Whirlpool hopping: yes
2) Chloride/Sulfate levels yes - closer to 1.5:1 than 1:1
3) Use low flocculating yeast yes
4) Dry hopping during active fermenation yes
5) Large dry hop. define large?? 1oz+/gallon
6) Keg hop nope
7) Recipe design yes
8) Reduce oxygen exposure during kegging/packaging to increase stability and longevity.
Posted on 12/7/16 at 2:51 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
1) Whirlpool hopping: yes
2) Chloride/Sulfate levels i have no idea, but I do add gypsum and calcium chloride because someone told me to
3) Use low flocculating yeast yes
4) Dry hopping during active fermenation yes
5) Large dry hop. define large?? 6oz+/batch
6) Keg hop nope
7) Recipe design yes
8) Reduce oxygen exposure during kegging/packaging to increase stability and longevity. yes
Posted on 12/7/16 at 3:26 pm to BugAC
I made a NE IPA recently that came out pretty well. The mouthfeel was perfect, but I found that the beer was a bit too bitter.
Definitely whirlpool hop, but wait until the wort temperature gets down to around 175°F. I added 4 oz of hops at flameout and let it sit for 20 minutes before starting to chill. I attribute the extra bitterness to the additional isomerization that occurred while the wort was above 175°F. I am drinking a red IPA right now, and I didn't whirlpool hop until 175°F. This beer has a great aroma and flavor that I wish I would have had in the NE IPA.
I adjusted my water to 100 ppm each.
Yes, I used 1318
I found that my NE IPA was fantastic during the first 3-4 days. After that, the "hop burst" flavor dropped off and more bitterness came through.
I used 8 oz of dry hops in a 5 gal batch. I added them in 2 stages.
I attempted this, but I don't think that it really added any benefit.
I used 15% flaked oats and 5% wheat. I also added 5% carapils to help boost the body and 5% dextrose to up the ABV to 8%. The remainder of the grain bill was equal parts of Maris Otter and pale ale malt. I read that this style benefits from adding something like Maris Otter or Golden Promise to add a bit of malt complexity.
The next time I brew this recipe, the only things that I will change are the hop bill and whirlpool temperature, but everything else will stay the same.
quote:
1) Whirlpool hopping
Definitely whirlpool hop, but wait until the wort temperature gets down to around 175°F. I added 4 oz of hops at flameout and let it sit for 20 minutes before starting to chill. I attribute the extra bitterness to the additional isomerization that occurred while the wort was above 175°F. I am drinking a red IPA right now, and I didn't whirlpool hop until 175°F. This beer has a great aroma and flavor that I wish I would have had in the NE IPA.
quote:
2) Chloride/Sulfate levels - I'm shooting for a 1:1 ratio of 100 to 100. This more enhances the mouthfeel than the hops themselves.
I adjusted my water to 100 ppm each.
quote:
3) Use low flocculating yeast, in particular the london ale 3 strain.
Yes, I used 1318
quote:
4) Start your dry hopping during active fermenation. Some hop oils cling to the yeast cells. The longer the cells stay in suspension, the more hop aroma/flavor you'll get.
I found that my NE IPA was fantastic during the first 3-4 days. After that, the "hop burst" flavor dropped off and more bitterness came through.
quote:
5) Large dry hop. I currently dry hop around 5-7 oz.
I used 8 oz of dry hops in a 5 gal batch. I added them in 2 stages.
quote:
6) Keg hop - Currently, i've keg hopped with 2 oz. of hops. I've read that taking your dry hop amount, halving it, and then doing half in the dry hop and half in the keg produces great aroma/flavo
I attempted this, but I don't think that it really added any benefit.
quote:
7) Recipe design - Mostly light colored base malts, with some oats/wheat/spelt, etc... protein rich malts that take longer to flocculate.
I used 15% flaked oats and 5% wheat. I also added 5% carapils to help boost the body and 5% dextrose to up the ABV to 8%. The remainder of the grain bill was equal parts of Maris Otter and pale ale malt. I read that this style benefits from adding something like Maris Otter or Golden Promise to add a bit of malt complexity.
The next time I brew this recipe, the only things that I will change are the hop bill and whirlpool temperature, but everything else will stay the same.
Posted on 12/9/16 at 8:23 am to Bleed P&G
I bought a brand new march pump with polysulfone pump head a few weeks back for a rig I'm building. Last night the last of the new tri-clover fittings I needed came in and I started putting everything together.
Started carefully putting everything together got the first side done, moved on to the second and BAMM! the threads on the stainless steel fittings cut straight through the threads on plastic pump head. Tried a few times to fix the threading, but they're screwed.
Ordered a new, stainless steel, pump head this morning. I need a beer...
Started carefully putting everything together got the first side done, moved on to the second and BAMM! the threads on the stainless steel fittings cut straight through the threads on plastic pump head. Tried a few times to fix the threading, but they're screwed.
Ordered a new, stainless steel, pump head this morning. I need a beer...
This post was edited on 12/9/16 at 8:24 am
Posted on 12/13/16 at 7:52 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
LSUGrad00
I'm in the dry hopping phase of my pedio quick sour right now, and i took some measurements last night and dry hopped with chinook and simcoe (Changed the recipe from ekuanot to simcoe). It is tasting really good right now. Perfect amount of sourness. It does taste different than my other gose. My other gose i used Omega's lacto blend. This i used Bootleg's sour weapon pedio p. to quick sour. Ph on this one was about 3.27 last i checked. Didn't check ph last night. I found the taste to be sort of sharper, but drops off quicker in the mouth. As opposed to the lacto blend that the sourness tended to linger in the mouth for a little bit.
This one is going to be great as well. I'm pumped. I'll probably keg this weekend with a couple oz. of spruce tips.
Which brings me to a question. I was unable to steep my spruce tips, as they did not come in the mail in time. So my plan is to keg "hop" the spruce tips in a muslin bag and weigh it down with some stainless washers. The Spruce tips came with a note that stated there could be bugs inside the packaging (i assume they mean actual bugs from inside the trees as they harvest the spruce tips). Would the low ph and the alcohol content (4.4%) do enough to kill anything that may be on the spruce tips? Should i make a tea or tincture, or would a straight pitch be suitable?
This post was edited on 12/13/16 at 9:25 am
Posted on 12/13/16 at 8:25 am to BugAC
quote:
Should i make a tea or tincture, or would a straight pitch be suitable?
You should soak them in vodka, then throw them straight in the trash.
Posted on 12/13/16 at 9:05 am to BugAC
quote:
You don't care for spruce?
Not enough to want 5 gallons of spruced beer. As a one off bottle here and there, sure.
Posted on 12/13/16 at 9:13 am to BMoney
quote:
You should soak them in vodka, then throw them straight in the trash.
why waste the vodka?
Posted on 12/13/16 at 9:18 am to BMoney
quote:
Not enough to want 5 gallons of spruced beer. As a one off bottle here and there, sure.
To each their own. Have ever had Grimm's super spruce? It's fantastic. And if i do the spruce right, this one is going to be really good too.
This post was edited on 12/13/16 at 9:18 am
Posted on 12/13/16 at 9:21 am to BugAC
On another note, my 100% citra brett pale ale is tasting fantastic right now. Cool thing about this beer is every couple weeks or so, the flavor slightly changes. It went from being a little funky and tart, to being funky and fruity. So far, my sour/funky beer brewing has been on point. I'm also interested in pouring a little of the brett and a little of the gose in the same glass and see how it comes out.
In a couple weeks i'll be brewing long aged mixed ferm #2, and probably a coffee stout.
In a couple weeks i'll be brewing long aged mixed ferm #2, and probably a coffee stout.
This post was edited on 12/13/16 at 9:22 am
Posted on 12/13/16 at 9:31 am to BugAC
quote:
Which brings me to a question. I was unable to steep my spruce tips, as they did not come in the mail in time. So my plan is to keg "hop" the spruce tips in a muslin bag and weigh it down with some stainless washers. The Spruce tips came with a note that stated there could be bugs inside the packaging (i assume they mean actual bugs from inside the trees as they harvest the spruce tips). Would the low ph and the alcohol content (4.4%) do enough to kill anything that may be on the spruce tips? Should i make a tea or tincture, or would a straight pitch be suitable?
The owner of Alaskan Brewing Company gave a talk at Dixie Cup a few years back and was of the opinion that you need to add the spruce in the boil to get the best flavor extraction.
Since that's behind you... I'd make a tea or tincture and then add to taste.
Posted on 12/13/16 at 10:08 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
The owner of Alaskan Brewing Company gave a talk at Dixie Cup a few years back and was of the opinion that you need to add the spruce in the boil to get the best flavor extraction.
Since that's behind you... I'd make a tea or tincture and then add to taste.
Yeah, i can see how. You'd probably get more extraction with the heat. What about bringing some water up to 170 and steeping the spruce in that. Then cooling down and pitching in the keg? Really just pissed the USPS did what they always do.
FWIW, i did pick up some piney notes from the whirlpool additions of chinook and simcoe, albeit very small hint.
This post was edited on 12/13/16 at 10:09 am
Posted on 12/13/16 at 12:23 pm to BugAC
For future reference, you can use Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana). It's plentiful in the area. I know Scratch uses it in in their beers.
Posted on 12/13/16 at 12:31 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
For future reference, you can use Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana). It's plentiful in the area. I know Scratch uses it in in their beers.
Interesting. I'm assuming the blooming tips? I suppose that would be around the spring time.
And Scratch uses everything in their beer. It's quite impressive.
Posted on 12/13/16 at 12:31 pm to BugAC
quote:
What about bringing some water up to 170 and steeping the spruce in that. Then cooling down and pitching in the keg?
Sounds like a good plan, if 170F is the good for extracting essential oils from hops it will probably work well for the spruce as well.
Bring the water up somewhere in that range, pitch the spruce , and let it steep and naturally cool for 15 minutes to an hour?
Posted on 12/13/16 at 12:34 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
Sounds like a good plan, if 170F is the good for extracting essential oils from hops it will probably work well for the spruce as well.
Bring the water up somewhere in that range, pitch the spruce , and let it steep and naturally cool for 15 minutes to an hour?
170 was the temp Grimm suggested. I'll do 2.5 oz. @ 170 for 30-40 minutes then cool and pitch. Probably steep in about a liter of water.
If anyone needs a little over an oz. of spruce tips from Colorado, i'll have some free in the freezer.
This post was edited on 12/13/16 at 12:36 pm
Posted on 12/13/16 at 12:36 pm to BugAC
quote:
I'm assuming the blooming tips?
You can cut off any branches and line the bottom of your mash tun. Acts as a false bottom and flavor addition.
I've also seen where it is used in the HLT to flavor all the infusions.
This post was edited on 12/13/16 at 12:37 pm
Posted on 12/13/16 at 12:37 pm to BugAC
quote:
If anyone needs a little over an oz. of spruce tips from Colorado, i'll have some free in the freezer.
You should 'Secret Santa' them to the good folks at Running Monk Brewery.
Posted on 12/14/16 at 10:49 am to LSUGrad00
How the hell does a "Post your favorite soup recipe" thread get stickied, yet we can't get the homebrewing thread stickied?


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