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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by convertedtiger on 9/28/20 at 10:16 am to BugAC
Wow, I REALLY want a beer gun. I have 1 beer kegged and one coming out of Diacetyl rest. No room in the freezer or the Keezer for them. I'm thinking of just MacGyvering my bottling wand with a ball lock and REALLY low pressure from the keg to the bottles. I may just use carb tabs in the bottles so I don't have to carb up the keg.
Not sure how I am going to do it just yet. I went brew crazy a few weeks ago, and am now out of room.
One will be bottled and then lagered for a couple months as I have room on the hump for bottles. The other will just go in the back of the closet for a few months. I COULD just leave that one in the keg and just let it be until I get more room freed up. I guess there are worse dilemmas to be had.
Not sure how I am going to do it just yet. I went brew crazy a few weeks ago, and am now out of room.
One will be bottled and then lagered for a couple months as I have room on the hump for bottles. The other will just go in the back of the closet for a few months. I COULD just leave that one in the keg and just let it be until I get more room freed up. I guess there are worse dilemmas to be had.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by BugAC on 9/28/20 at 12:42 pm to convertedtiger
quote:
Wow, I REALLY want a beer gun.
For bottling uncarbonated beer, it's great. For bottling carbonated beer, it's a pain in the arse. Way too much foam gets pushed through the lines into the bottle.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by convertedtiger on 9/28/20 at 1:56 pm to BugAC
quote:
For bottling uncarbonated beer, it's great
Really? So do you use carb tabs or just add your sugars to the keg before bottling? I thought the whole point of a beer gun was bottling carbed beer. Hmmm.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by CarRamrod on 9/28/20 at 2:07 pm to convertedtiger
the best way to bottle while carbonated is a counter pressure gun. But it is a pain. what i do when i bottle is take a picnic tap, and the bottle filler tube with the valve at the end, it fits right into the picnic tap. but before that i got a bung with a hole and put it on the tube.
then put it on the bottle and as you fill up it creates the counter pressure, keeps the foam down and when the pour slows down, you used your thumb to bleed out some pressure until it fills up.
here is a pic but with a plain tube.
then put it on the bottle and as you fill up it creates the counter pressure, keeps the foam down and when the pour slows down, you used your thumb to bleed out some pressure until it fills up.
here is a pic but with a plain tube.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by BugAC on 9/28/20 at 2:22 pm to convertedtiger
quote:
Really? So do you use carb tabs or just add your sugars to the keg before bottling?
I keg all my clean beer and bottle condition all my mixed fermentation sours. I add the sugar and conditioning yeast to the keg when i close transfer to the keg.
quote:
I thought the whole point of a beer gun was bottling carbed beer. Hmmm.
That may be the intended purpose, but it doesn't work very well, IMO. Not really an issue considering of how I package my beers now.
quote:dude WTF how long do your kegs take to carb? I force carb and doing it the proper way takes 3-5 days. The quick way 30 mins to 1 day. And I still itch because i want to drink it fast.
I add the sugar and conditioning yeast to the keg when i close transfer to the keg.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by convertedtiger on 9/28/20 at 3:34 pm to CarRamrod
Thanks folks. I may give that a try.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by puffulufogous on 9/28/20 at 8:11 pm to convertedtiger
Brewed the cascade pale ale on Friday night with a buddy of mine while he brewed a brown ale. For the second brew in a row my mash efficiency percentage was in the mid forties despite paying close attention to my volumes and adding acid to correct my residual alkalinity issue in my tap water.
This was my third all grain batch from adventures in homebrewing. The first was a shandy kit that I had to boil for 10 extra minutes to hit correct OG. The second was the octoberfast which I had to boil for 20 additional minutes. This also required an additional 20 minutes to get close to the expected OG.
I've been trying to pay a lot of attention to my process to make sure I am not creating the issue, and at this point I have settled on improperly milled grains as the only good explanation for a 30 plus percent drop in my mash efficiency. My friend and I ordered together so I could see if his efficiency sucked as well, but unfortunately he forgot to check his OG (damn you 11 percent imperial stouts). Is there anything else I could be missing to explain this wide of an efficiency discrepancy?
This was my third all grain batch from adventures in homebrewing. The first was a shandy kit that I had to boil for 10 extra minutes to hit correct OG. The second was the octoberfast which I had to boil for 20 additional minutes. This also required an additional 20 minutes to get close to the expected OG.
I've been trying to pay a lot of attention to my process to make sure I am not creating the issue, and at this point I have settled on improperly milled grains as the only good explanation for a 30 plus percent drop in my mash efficiency. My friend and I ordered together so I could see if his efficiency sucked as well, but unfortunately he forgot to check his OG (damn you 11 percent imperial stouts). Is there anything else I could be missing to explain this wide of an efficiency discrepancy?
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by mchias1 on 9/28/20 at 8:30 pm to puffulufogous
What is your water to grain ratio of your mash?
Are you sparging after mashing?
Can't remember are you doing BIAB?
What temp did you mash at?
Are you sparging after mashing?
Can't remember are you doing BIAB?
What temp did you mash at?
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by puffulufogous on 9/28/20 at 8:55 pm to mchias1
quote:
What is your water to grain ratio of your mash?
In my last two batches 1.36qt/lb and 1.48.
quote:
Are you sparging after mashing?
Three step batch sparging at 168 per Beersmith recommendations. Ensuring even distribution of sparge water each time. Stirring vigorously after mashing in to avoid doughballs, especially on this last batch.
quote:
Can't remember are you doing BIAB?
Doing standard 60 minute mashes with 10g picnic cooler MLT and hitting my temps on the nose the last three batches. The batch before these most recent three I had 78% mash efficiency using what I felt was much poorer technique. poor stirring, estimating sparge volumes, not hitting temps perfectly. I also used to use acid malt for ph correction which I understood to be much less accurate than fine control with lactic or phosphoric acid.
quote:
What temp did you mash at?
Most recent batch (pale ale) 151. Oktoberfast at 158. Shandy at 149. No real issues hitting temps as I am preheating mash tun before adding grain.
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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by mchias1 on 9/28/20 at 9:27 pm to puffulufogous
Everything looks fine to me.
1 thing you could try is mash until your mash gravity is where you expect instead of a timed mash.
I'd measure pre-sparge and post sparge as well.
1 thing you could try is mash until your mash gravity is where you expect instead of a timed mash.
I'd measure pre-sparge and post sparge as well.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by BigPerm30 on 9/28/20 at 9:33 pm to puffulufogous
By any chance did you take your specific gravity while your wort was hot?
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by GeauxPack81 on 9/28/20 at 9:37 pm to BigPerm30
quote:
By any chance did you take your specific gravity while your wort was hot?
Exactly what I was going to say. It's gonna be off unless it's pretty close to room temp.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by puffulufogous on 9/28/20 at 9:58 pm to BigPerm30
Nope, I started by taking checking with a refractometer (not calibrated but just for curiosity) and it read 1.035. I set aside my hydrometer sample and cooled it to very close to RT and it was 1.037 when my post mash gravity is supposed to be 1.046. I did some quick boil off calculations and figured I needed to boil an extra 25 minutes to make up for the gravity. I did so and hit the desired OG on the nose which is good, but this efficiency issue is grinding my gears. I know its not the end of the world to spend a couple bucks on grain, but I went from consistently hitting high seventies and low eighties to getting high 40s. I even put in a note on the order to make sure all grains were milled. I mean that kind of drop has to be something big and this is a recurring theme since I started ordering from AiH. I looked online and no one else seems to be complaining about it.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by GeauxPack81 on 9/28/20 at 9:58 pm to BugAC
Duuuude, I need to try one of your sours someday. Will trade GeauxPack Brewing Co beers.
I've been out of brewing action for about of month, been traveling for work and weddings. The beauty of homebrewing though is that I put 2 beers in the fermentation chamber 3 and 4 weeks ago and now they are ready to transfer to the kegs. I killed my gose last night to make room for these bad boys. Got a Galaxy IPA and an Oktoberfest. Fined both with gelatin last night (first time doing that) and cold crashed. Should be drinking both this weekend. Will post pics of the finished products... We need more pics of finished products in this thread.
I've been out of brewing action for about of month, been traveling for work and weddings. The beauty of homebrewing though is that I put 2 beers in the fermentation chamber 3 and 4 weeks ago and now they are ready to transfer to the kegs. I killed my gose last night to make room for these bad boys. Got a Galaxy IPA and an Oktoberfest. Fined both with gelatin last night (first time doing that) and cold crashed. Should be drinking both this weekend. Will post pics of the finished products... We need more pics of finished products in this thread.
quote:
dude WTF how long do your kegs take to carb? I force carb and doing it the proper way takes 3-5 days. The quick way 30 mins to 1 day. And I still itch because i want to drink it fast.
You may have misunderstood. I rack from fermented to keg. Then Immediately transfer to bottles from keg via bottling gun. The keg serves as a vessel to mix the priming sugar and bottle conditioning yeast with the beer, and then allows me to use the beer gun to fill bottles. It does not carbonate in the keg(for sours)
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by BugAC on 9/28/20 at 10:16 pm to puffulufogous
quote:
In my last two batches 1.36qt/lb and 1.48.
I believe mine is set at 1.25 qt/lb, if that helps. Could you post your recipe and brew steps when you get some time?
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by BugAC on 9/28/20 at 10:18 pm to GeauxPack81
quote:
Duuuude, I need to try one of your sours someday. Will trade GeauxPack Brewing Co beers.
Absolutely. I now have 6 different sours bottled. The newest ones need about 3 weeks before they are ready to drink.
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume IIPosted by GeauxPack81 on 10/3/20 at 11:34 am to CarRamrod
I said we need more pics of final products, so here is my Oktoberfest:
I love it. Still a little under carbonated, so I'm not getting as much of the caramel nose as I want, but it's there and will come out in time.
I love it. Still a little under carbonated, so I'm not getting as much of the caramel nose as I want, but it's there and will come out in time.
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