- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 1/24/20 at 9:40 am to BugAC
Posted on 1/24/20 at 9:40 am to BugAC
Do you use seperate brewing equipment for your sour beers? I eventually want to make a gose or a Berliner, but r/Homebrewing has made me a little nervous to use the same kettle/fermenter/kegs. I figure some PBW would kill anything left in there...
I cold crashed and transferred my Galaxy/Nelson NEIPA to my serving keg last night. This is the one I used Pilsner malts as a base for, and the color is amazing. I don't have any comments on the taste just yet. I took a small sample from towards the bottom of the fermenter, and it had so much hop burn I couldn't taste anything else
... Fermenting in kegs with a clear draught system has been great so far, but next NEIPA I think I will still need to use hop sacks with a marble or something in there. This one will need time to chill out, but I am pumped to taste test it again this weekend.
Any StarCraft fans in this thread? If so, you will like the name that J Murdah came up with for the Galaxy/Nelson NEIPA that he helped me create, and the label that my buddy created for me.
If you never played StarCraft, it won't make any sense.
I cold crashed and transferred my Galaxy/Nelson NEIPA to my serving keg last night. This is the one I used Pilsner malts as a base for, and the color is amazing. I don't have any comments on the taste just yet. I took a small sample from towards the bottom of the fermenter, and it had so much hop burn I couldn't taste anything else
... Fermenting in kegs with a clear draught system has been great so far, but next NEIPA I think I will still need to use hop sacks with a marble or something in there. This one will need time to chill out, but I am pumped to taste test it again this weekend. Any StarCraft fans in this thread? If so, you will like the name that J Murdah came up with for the Galaxy/Nelson NEIPA that he helped me create, and the label that my buddy created for me.
If you never played StarCraft, it won't make any sense.
This post was edited on 1/24/20 at 9:47 am
1
Posted on 1/24/20 at 10:32 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
Do you use seperate brewing equipment for your sour beers? I eventually want to make a gose or a Berliner, but r/Homebrewing has made me a little nervous to use the same kettle/fermenter/kegs. I figure some PBW would kill anything left in there...
Yes and no. And PBW is your cleaner, starsan is your sanitizer, and that's what you need to kill off the microbes. So i try to use separate fermenters for sours and nonsours. However, i have used the same glass carboy for a long aged sour, and then for a clean beer. But i cleaned and sanitized the fermenter. Clean beer came out fine. However, i would keep your plastics separate. Plastic is pourous and could harbor bacteria. For that, i have 2 containers, one for my sour plastics and one for my clean plastics. Also, remember, you really only have to worry about cold side. Anything you are using in the boil, will be killed off in the boil. So i really only have a sour beer thief, measuring flask, racking cane, and airlocks and stoppers for sour beer. Everything else can be used for both.
quote:
I cold crashed and transferred my Galaxy/Nelson NEIPA to my serving keg last night. This is the one I used Pilsner malts as a base for, and the color is amazing. I don't have any comments on the taste just yet. I took a small sample from towards the bottom of the fermenter, and it had so much hop burn I couldn't taste anything else ... Fermenting in kegs with a clear draught system has been great so far, but next NEIPA I think I will still need to use hop sacks with a marble or something in there. This one will need time to chill out, but I am pumped to taste test it again this weekend.
My only concern with using mostly pilsner malt, is lack of sweetness in the beer. I'm crafting a sabro/zappa NE Pale Ale/IPA, and i'm using a mix of pilsner/2 row/golden promise for the base, and adjusting my brew salts a good bit and see how that works.
Posted on 1/24/20 at 10:47 am to BugAC
That’s my thought. If you sour in the kettle that you boil in, you would kill any of the bugs without any contamination. I’m doing a Gose or Berlin next. I’m still working out the recipe. I have a grainfather so holding a consistent temperature for 24-48 hours should not be an issue.
Can anyone recommend a PH meter? I want something cheap. I don’t care if it’s off a couple points. I’m not going for lab caliber testing equipment.
Can anyone recommend a PH meter? I want something cheap. I don’t care if it’s off a couple points. I’m not going for lab caliber testing equipment.
Posted on 1/24/20 at 10:59 am to BigPerm30
quote:
That’s my thought. If you sour in the kettle that you boil in, you would kill any of the bugs without any contamination.
Exactly. And i generally boil off any microbes once i reach the acidity i want.
quote:
Can anyone recommend a PH meter? I want something cheap. I don’t care if it’s off a couple points. I’m not going for lab caliber testing equipment.
I had a cheap one i got off amazon called "Etekcity". It stopped working after about 6 months. SO i upgraded and got one slightly better.
LINK
$37. Not the cheapest, but not the most expensive. Works well.
Posted on 1/24/20 at 11:05 am to BugAC
Thanks. That’s what I was looking for. Do you have to calibrate it with solution every use?
Posted on 1/24/20 at 11:11 am to BigPerm30
quote:
Thanks. That’s what I was looking for. Do you have to calibrate it with solution every use?
Yes. You have to do that with all of them, unfortunately. I just keep the same 3 vials of ph solution and reuse them. FWIW, i only use my ph meter for quick sours. Mixed ferm, the acidity is going to be, what its going to be. I just go by taste and decide if i want more/less acidity and then from there, determine how much new beer to blend with it.
This post was edited on 1/24/20 at 11:12 am
Posted on 1/29/20 at 11:33 pm to BugAC
I'm finally done with my build number 1. This is a 30 amp panel that will be able to control 1 electric heater and 1 accessory (pump) for a rims tube. I'm going to have to have a makeshift brew method with this BUT I'm in the electric game and that was the purpose of this build. I have designed a 50 amp panel that will be semi automated. Now I need to start buying parts for that.
I have less than 200 bucks in this build not including power cables and such that will be used with my 2nd panel. Just parts in this box. Just went and looked at my cost spread sheet and it was 172 total plus I had the nema box already. That's about 25 bucks. And that does not include the wire I already had.
I have less than 200 bucks in this build not including power cables and such that will be used with my 2nd panel. Just parts in this box. Just went and looked at my cost spread sheet and it was 172 total plus I had the nema box already. That's about 25 bucks. And that does not include the wire I already had.
This post was edited on 1/29/20 at 11:39 pm
Posted on 1/30/20 at 3:26 pm to CarRamrod
That’s awesome. I’m not brave (or competent) enough to mess with wiring anything electrical. I’m too afraid I’ll burn something down.
Posted on 1/30/20 at 7:39 pm to BugAC
That's why you have fuses.
Posted on 2/5/20 at 8:50 am to CarRamrod
Bottled my latest beer last night. I call it a Honey-Oat Amber.
Recipe:
71% - Maris Otter
14% - Flaked Oats
7% - Amber Malt
7% - Honey Malt
I sampled some and am really disappointed in the honey malt. From what I have read ~8% honey malt is the most you want to use or the honey flavor is overpowering. At 7% I don't taste any honey.
Anyone else ever tried using Honey malt and your experience tasting?
Recipe:
71% - Maris Otter
14% - Flaked Oats
7% - Amber Malt
7% - Honey Malt
I sampled some and am really disappointed in the honey malt. From what I have read ~8% honey malt is the most you want to use or the honey flavor is overpowering. At 7% I don't taste any honey.
Anyone else ever tried using Honey malt and your experience tasting?
Posted on 2/5/20 at 8:57 am to mchias1
quote:
Anyone else ever tried using Honey malt and your experience tasting?
I've used it in small amounts in an NEIPA for some increased sweetness. Couldn't really distinguish anything. IPA probably isn't the best style to use for distinguishing malt character, however.
Bottled up a sour over the weekend, and finally got my closed transfer issues solved. I believe i just didn't have everything sealed off properly before, so i wasn't keeping any positive pressure trying to push out the beer. Also blended a year old sour and i may have colossally screwed that one up. I was racking 3 gallons from a plastic better bottle onto the 2 gallons of saison that was in a glass fermenter, however, i couldn't use the sterile siphon starter because the cap wasn't big enough to fit around the better bottle. So i tried using an autosiphon and those things are pure garbage. I could just see the entire thing oxidizing as it was struggling to pull the beer into the other fermenter. Then, when was finally able to get that racked over, i wanted to top off the fermenter a bit with another 1 gallon mixed ferm i had in a demijohn. But, i had no siphon other than regular hose, so i just did that. Somewhere along the way, i had CO2 bubbling up the blend when transferring, so i hope that didn't mess anything up. Anyway, i have 5 gallons of mixed ferm blend in a 6.5 gallon carboy and i still need to fruit it. Problem, is i'll be introducing a bunch of oxygen and splashing the beer when i drop in the fruit. Thinking of maybe shoving a hop bag in the fermenter then adding fruit slowly. As always, bottling/blending day, something always happens. Regardless, i'll let the blend sit on fruit for only a couple weeks to lessen the chances of oxidation causing the beer to turn to vinegar. A bunch of purging with CO2 should help.
Posted on 2/5/20 at 2:56 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
m finally done with my build number 1
Nice! I'm usually a DIYer, but I don't mess with electric wiring. You're a braver man than myself. The 50A panel will control the MT, BK, and other pumps?
quote:
disappointed in the honey malt. From what I have read ~8% honey malt is the most you want to use or the honey flavor is overpowering. At 7% I don't taste any honey. Anyone else ever tried using Honey malt and your experience tasting?
As with most flavor-named things in brewing, the final product is generally not as advertised. Honey malt, as far as I know, is just another sort of malt to add a little more depth without complexity in the mash process. I've read it's similar to melanoidin malt, which I use frequently to mimic decoction mashes.
Posted on 2/5/20 at 3:29 pm to BottomlandBrew
Yea i av recently gotten into doing my own electrical. and am gaining more confidence in doing things. My cable management needs work though
this panel is 30 so it will only run one element at a time. a 5500 watt element at 240v will pull 22.9 amps. (V*A=W) So a 50 amp panel will run 2 elements that will pull 45.8 amps. So 5 amps should be plenty to run a few different pumps.
So I really want to remove the 3rd vessel. There are 3 routes i can go down. First is direct heating fly sparging. This came from the poster Brundog on hombrewtalk. A 5500 watt can bring tap water to sparge temp. This takes a good bit of work with tuning the flow rate to come out at the temp you want. you can read more here. LINK
Next it to just do a full batch sparge and not woryy about it for this. But to me sparging is part of brewing.
Third is to heat your sparg water in the boil kettle and then pump it on top of your mash then pump mash water back to boil kettle and the water on top will wash the grains to a point.
So idk what im going to do.
Now you got me thinking that i want more then 50 amps on my V2 so i can run 3 elements at a time, 2 in the boiler if i go to bigger batches. But i could she have a really that will switch element controls.
this panel is 30 so it will only run one element at a time. a 5500 watt element at 240v will pull 22.9 amps. (V*A=W) So a 50 amp panel will run 2 elements that will pull 45.8 amps. So 5 amps should be plenty to run a few different pumps.
So I really want to remove the 3rd vessel. There are 3 routes i can go down. First is direct heating fly sparging. This came from the poster Brundog on hombrewtalk. A 5500 watt can bring tap water to sparge temp. This takes a good bit of work with tuning the flow rate to come out at the temp you want. you can read more here. LINK
Next it to just do a full batch sparge and not woryy about it for this. But to me sparging is part of brewing.
Third is to heat your sparg water in the boil kettle and then pump it on top of your mash then pump mash water back to boil kettle and the water on top will wash the grains to a point.
So idk what im going to do.
Now you got me thinking that i want more then 50 amps on my V2 so i can run 3 elements at a time, 2 in the boiler if i go to bigger batches. But i could she have a really that will switch element controls.
This post was edited on 2/5/20 at 3:31 pm
Posted on 2/5/20 at 3:41 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
So idk what im going to do.
There's for sure a lot of options to choose from. That's why I went with a recirculating eBIAB setup to "keep it simple, stupid." One pump. One element. One kettle. Posted on 2/5/20 at 3:55 pm to BottomlandBrew
i alway push myself to go the KISS method.... but my engineer mind goes down rabbit holes to make things complicated and awesome that sometimes dont work.
you know....... i could get a BIAB basket and do 2 batches, not back to back but simultaneously.
pot 1 -> mash -> pull basket-> start heating pot 1 -> reload basket and mash in pot 2 -> etc. get 2 brews done in what 1.5 the ammount of time.
dam now you have my mind spinning.
you know....... i could get a BIAB basket and do 2 batches, not back to back but simultaneously.
pot 1 -> mash -> pull basket-> start heating pot 1 -> reload basket and mash in pot 2 -> etc. get 2 brews done in what 1.5 the ammount of time.
dam now you have my mind spinning.
This post was edited on 2/5/20 at 3:58 pm
Posted on 2/7/20 at 8:41 am to CarRamrod
So i'm reformulating my NEIPA recipe/process, yet again. The #1 detriment from making a decent NEIPA is oxygen. I know this is the problem with my recent NEIPA, as i was forced to upend the carboy to get the rest of the beer into the keg because all of my attempts to siphon failed.
In addition, i've listened to all of the brulosophy podcasts about NEIPA and have been reading Scott Janish's book The New IPA, as well as reading many articles on the style. IMO, NEIPA is the hardest style to make correctly.
So, with that said, i'm changing up a few things for my next batch (Next weekend).
1) i think i got the sterile siphon starter O2 free tranfer thing down. Transferred 2 sours last weekend and it worked fine. I think my problem is i wasn't sealing everything off properly.
2) I'm buying this 300 micron filter to place in the carboy to siphon and also as a dip tube filter in the keg.
3) Whenever this is back in stock, plan on attaching this to the carboy for cold crashing so it minimizes suck back of O2 from the airlock.
4) I'm also doing a complete purge of my kegs before kegging. After i sanitize and rinse, i'll fill up the keg with about a gallon of water. Then i'll push in some CO2 and leave the valve open for a couple minutes. Then i'll close the valve, and push the water out of the keg via the faucet.
5) The next step is to prevent oxygen introduction when dry hopping. After listening to the brulosophy podcast and reading up on this NEIPA from The Mad Fermentationist website, i'll be adding majority of my dry hops at the "biotransformation" stage. The guys at brulosophy and even Janish are starting to question whether biotransformation is a thing, however, what they do agree on, is that when dry hopping, if you add the hops during fermentation, then that takes care of any O2 you may be introducing with the hops themselves. The fermentation drives off the oxygen.
6) I'm also considering keg hopping when i transfer over, especially if i have the dip tube filter working.
ETA: 7) Oh, another tip. Seems as though flaked oats is more susceptible to oxygen pickup than other grains, i think due to the manganese content. So for this next batch, i'm using malted oats. Janish mentioned this as well.
On a secondary note, i also plan on brewing my spruce, juniper berry quick sour gose next weekend as well, during a double brew day.
In addition, i've listened to all of the brulosophy podcasts about NEIPA and have been reading Scott Janish's book The New IPA, as well as reading many articles on the style. IMO, NEIPA is the hardest style to make correctly.
So, with that said, i'm changing up a few things for my next batch (Next weekend).
1) i think i got the sterile siphon starter O2 free tranfer thing down. Transferred 2 sours last weekend and it worked fine. I think my problem is i wasn't sealing everything off properly.
2) I'm buying this 300 micron filter to place in the carboy to siphon and also as a dip tube filter in the keg.
3) Whenever this is back in stock, plan on attaching this to the carboy for cold crashing so it minimizes suck back of O2 from the airlock.
4) I'm also doing a complete purge of my kegs before kegging. After i sanitize and rinse, i'll fill up the keg with about a gallon of water. Then i'll push in some CO2 and leave the valve open for a couple minutes. Then i'll close the valve, and push the water out of the keg via the faucet.
5) The next step is to prevent oxygen introduction when dry hopping. After listening to the brulosophy podcast and reading up on this NEIPA from The Mad Fermentationist website, i'll be adding majority of my dry hops at the "biotransformation" stage. The guys at brulosophy and even Janish are starting to question whether biotransformation is a thing, however, what they do agree on, is that when dry hopping, if you add the hops during fermentation, then that takes care of any O2 you may be introducing with the hops themselves. The fermentation drives off the oxygen.
6) I'm also considering keg hopping when i transfer over, especially if i have the dip tube filter working.
ETA: 7) Oh, another tip. Seems as though flaked oats is more susceptible to oxygen pickup than other grains, i think due to the manganese content. So for this next batch, i'm using malted oats. Janish mentioned this as well.
On a secondary note, i also plan on brewing my spruce, juniper berry quick sour gose next weekend as well, during a double brew day.
This post was edited on 2/7/20 at 9:05 am
Posted on 2/7/20 at 8:48 am to BugAC
Man you guys are inspiring. Y'all come up with some innovative stuff to improve the process. Anyone have a decent West coast ipa recipe? Thinking about trying the Pliny recipe on the AHBA website but I'm not a member yet.
Posted on 2/7/20 at 9:07 am to puffulufogous
quote:
Man you guys are inspiring. Y'all come up with some innovative stuff to improve the process.
I've just been dogged on my research to figure out how to make a great NEIPA. I've made some really good ones in the past, but also some bad ones. And i dont think it's been teh recipe, so much as the process. Also, added another step that i forgot about to my post.
quote:
Anyone have a decent West coast ipa recipe? Thinking about trying the Pliny recipe on the AHBA website but I'm not a member yet.
LINK
Here you go. I let my AHBA membership expire, but i'm pretty sure this is the recipe. I may make this in the future.
Posted on 2/7/20 at 9:14 am to puffulufogous
Also, here's my Hazy IPA recipe for my upcoming batch.
Balanced water profile
OG - 1.058
FG - 1.017
ABV - 5.44%
Mash temp - 154
2 row - 60%
Carafoam - 20%
malted oats - 20%
Whirlpool Hops at 180 - switching from a 170 degree whirlpool to a 180, as i've heard/read that a whirlpool that is in the 180 range, extracts more of the citrus/flowery oils, whereas a 170 whirlpool is extracting more of the grassy notes.
2 oz. Sabro
1 oz. Galaxy
1 oz. Zappa
Biotransformation/ High Krausen Hops (day 2 of fermentation)
4 oz. Sabro
2 oz. Galaxy
2 oz. Zappa
Keg hops
2 oz. Sabro
1 oz. Galaxy
1 oz. Zappa
Yeast - Bootleg Biology Chardonnay
Balanced water profile
OG - 1.058
FG - 1.017
ABV - 5.44%
Mash temp - 154
2 row - 60%
Carafoam - 20%
malted oats - 20%
Whirlpool Hops at 180 - switching from a 170 degree whirlpool to a 180, as i've heard/read that a whirlpool that is in the 180 range, extracts more of the citrus/flowery oils, whereas a 170 whirlpool is extracting more of the grassy notes.
2 oz. Sabro
1 oz. Galaxy
1 oz. Zappa
Biotransformation/ High Krausen Hops (day 2 of fermentation)
4 oz. Sabro
2 oz. Galaxy
2 oz. Zappa
Keg hops
2 oz. Sabro
1 oz. Galaxy
1 oz. Zappa
Yeast - Bootleg Biology Chardonnay
Posted on 2/7/20 at 10:09 am to BugAC
so why are you using a balanced water profile... Have you gone away from the 1.5-3:1 chloride to sulfate?
Page 204 of 277
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News