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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 5/26/16 at 11:51 am to Fratastic423
Posted on 5/26/16 at 11:51 am to Fratastic423
Assuming you're kegging, you should be fine. I've seen second or third generation belgian abbey yeasts crush wort in 2-3 days even at lowish temps, and since you're overpitching and keeping temps down the fruity esters shouldn't dominate the flavour. I had a belgian abbey yeast cake I went 5 generations with and every one of the beers was excellent and fermented FAST.
My only concern is (and I know this sounds weird) that I don't really like the taste of the suspended Wyeast 1214 yeast. I assume that's the Belgian abbey yeast you're using? Anyway I get a peppery almost fusel boozy taste from that yeast when I'm taking samples or drinking the first couple pints that I don't care for; it then clears and makes a delicious soft fruitiness that I DO like. I don't know if that's just me associating the yeast's flavour with a bad batch of beer back in the day or if there's a particular fatty acid on that yeast I don't like or what...
If I were going to bring a keg somewhere with that yeast I'd do a keg to keg transfer after I had cold crashed it just to be able to serve it without suspended yeast since I'm sensitive to its taste.
My only concern is (and I know this sounds weird) that I don't really like the taste of the suspended Wyeast 1214 yeast. I assume that's the Belgian abbey yeast you're using? Anyway I get a peppery almost fusel boozy taste from that yeast when I'm taking samples or drinking the first couple pints that I don't care for; it then clears and makes a delicious soft fruitiness that I DO like. I don't know if that's just me associating the yeast's flavour with a bad batch of beer back in the day or if there's a particular fatty acid on that yeast I don't like or what...
If I were going to bring a keg somewhere with that yeast I'd do a keg to keg transfer after I had cold crashed it just to be able to serve it without suspended yeast since I'm sensitive to its taste.
1
Posted on 5/26/16 at 11:57 am to Canuck Tiger
I could always add gelatin to the carboys as I start to cold crash.
Posted on 5/26/16 at 12:45 pm to Fratastic423
Yea that'd work too. I wonder if it would get rid of too much of the haziness though? You don't want a wit or hefe to be crystal clear.
Posted on 5/26/16 at 1:12 pm to Canuck Tiger
quote:
You don't want a wit or hefe to be crystal clear.
True. I will probably judge the belgian single that I currently have on the yeast and see what esters are being thrown out and go from there.
Posted on 5/26/16 at 5:00 pm to Fratastic423
ok guys, I have a what would you do question
I've been posting about the gose I have started and the issues with the lacto not souring it. I had decided to boil it tonight and pitch the 1007 regardless as to its acidity and see what happens. However, it's storming out, so, it's gonna ride longer.
I have a few options to work with here. It went into the keg to sour at 1.037. I'm going to have to let it go a while longer as the weather looks bad for tomorrow and we will have a house full of people all weekend.
1. I can boil it for about 15 minutes to kill whatever is in it, pitch 1007, and hopefully end up with a 3.5% or so beer that may or may not be sour.
2. I can proceed with the 60 minute boil I had planned, driving up the OG, pitch the 1007 and see what happens
3. I can do either of the above boil lengths and pitch brett instead of or in addition to the 1007, which could drive the FG down around 1.002 or so, increasing the ABV
4. I can go no-boil and pitch brett. There are no hops in it yet, not that it matters, really.
so, what would you do?
I've been posting about the gose I have started and the issues with the lacto not souring it. I had decided to boil it tonight and pitch the 1007 regardless as to its acidity and see what happens. However, it's storming out, so, it's gonna ride longer.
I have a few options to work with here. It went into the keg to sour at 1.037. I'm going to have to let it go a while longer as the weather looks bad for tomorrow and we will have a house full of people all weekend.
1. I can boil it for about 15 minutes to kill whatever is in it, pitch 1007, and hopefully end up with a 3.5% or so beer that may or may not be sour.
2. I can proceed with the 60 minute boil I had planned, driving up the OG, pitch the 1007 and see what happens
3. I can do either of the above boil lengths and pitch brett instead of or in addition to the 1007, which could drive the FG down around 1.002 or so, increasing the ABV
4. I can go no-boil and pitch brett. There are no hops in it yet, not that it matters, really.
so, what would you do?
Posted on 5/26/16 at 6:34 pm to LoneStarTiger
I'd wait until Monday and then either pitch Brett or 1007 no boil and let it ride. That gives the lacto another few days alone and then it can still work while the yeast ferments.
//edit I'm assuming you had a lot of Pilsner in the grist, and if you do a 15min boil you're gonna get some dms.
//edit I'm assuming you had a lot of Pilsner in the grist, and if you do a 15min boil you're gonna get some dms.
This post was edited on 5/26/16 at 6:35 pm
Posted on 5/26/16 at 6:56 pm to Canuck Tiger
I had no Pilsner. I did a 15 minute boil before putting it in the keg though.
Posted on 5/26/16 at 7:43 pm to LoneStarTiger
Newbie question. I'm scaling down to a 1 gallon extract brew to try a few recipes. Need help figuring out how much water to start with.
Using a 2 gallon kettle and 2.5lbs of malt extract
How much water should I start out with?
Using a 2 gallon kettle and 2.5lbs of malt extract
How much water should I start out with?
Posted on 5/26/16 at 8:08 pm to LoneStarTiger
Pitch 1007.
Posted on 5/26/16 at 8:38 pm to sandraccoon
Sandraccoon post your recipe you want to scale down? In general you lose about 10% volume/hour with a boil, so you'd need to start with about 1.1G water. But 2.5 lbs of malt extract in one gallon would be an OG of like 1.1+ so unless you're making some monster barleywine/imperial stout then I suspect there's an issue :)
Posted on 5/26/16 at 8:53 pm to Canuck Tiger
Fixed
This post was edited on 5/27/16 at 8:04 am
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:14 pm to sandraccoon
Just post the recipe and I can adjust it for you
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:24 pm to Canuck Tiger
I will still have problems making recipes using Beersmith in the future though which is the problem I'm trying to solve
This post was edited on 5/26/16 at 9:26 pm
Posted on 5/27/16 at 7:33 am to sandraccoon
I haven't spent enough time in beersmith to figure all that stuff out yet. Good luck.
Side note, if anyone wants to hear the Brewing Network read an angry email from a TD Homebrew Thread poster, just listen to the most recent session. Its the first feedback they read.
Side note, if anyone wants to hear the Brewing Network read an angry email from a TD Homebrew Thread poster, just listen to the most recent session. Its the first feedback they read.
Posted on 5/27/16 at 9:04 am to LoneStarTiger
I was trying to go through the process in my head last night and I realized most of the extract kit are for 5 gallons. Which means we will be brewing 3 gallons in the brew kettle. Well we are adding a thermometer and ball valve to a 15 gallon stainless steel pot, which seems too large for a 3 gallon brew. Now I can double all the ingredients and make it a 6 gallon brew but then we would need two 5 gallon fermenters and more supplies. I guess what I am asking is is my brew kettle too large? I was really wanting to use it because I already have it and it is a nice piece of metal.
Posted on 5/27/16 at 9:07 am to buffbraz
Double it! Ferment each 5-gallon half with a different yeast strain to see which one you like better.
Posted on 5/27/16 at 9:15 am to buffbraz
quote:
I was trying to go through the process in my head last night and I realized most of the extract kit are for 5 gallons. Which means we will be brewing 3 gallons in the brew kettle. Well we are adding a thermometer and ball valve to a 15 gallon stainless steel pot, which seems too large for a 3 gallon brew. Now I can double all the ingredients and make it a 6 gallon brew but then we would need two 5 gallon fermenters and more supplies. I guess what I am asking is is my brew kettle too large? I was really wanting to use it because I already have it and it is a nice piece of metal.
Not sure I understand. If you are brewing a 5 gallon batch, you should be brewing with a full volume of water (closer to 6.5-7 gallons before the boil).
Many extract brewers start by brewing in a small pot that can't hold enough liquid, so they top off with additional water to the required amount in the fermentor after the boil. This won't apply to you though, since you have a big enough pot to do a full boil.
Posted on 5/27/16 at 9:16 am to buffbraz
quote:
I guess what I am asking is is my brew kettle too large?
no such thing
That's like asking "Am I using too much citra?"
Posted on 5/27/16 at 9:24 am to LoneStarTiger
Ah citra hops... Autotune for IPAs
Posted on 5/27/16 at 9:24 am to sandraccoon
quote:
I will still have problems making recipes using Beersmith in the future though which is the problem I'm trying to solve
did you try the equipment wizard? It walks you through setting up your equipment profile pretty well
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