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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 2/15/16 at 1:22 pm to s14suspense
Posted on 2/15/16 at 1:22 pm to s14suspense
quote:
How many mL of Phosoric to replace 4 oz acid?
I looked back at a 3 or 4 of my Bru'n water sheets and swapped 4oz acid and 75% phos acid in and out.
In all of the ones I looked at, the 4oz of malt had the same affect as right around .25ml acid per gallon.
Posted on 2/15/16 at 1:26 pm to BottomlandBrew
No floor vents. I read on a homebrew forum that people use those sticky back heating pads and stick them on the buckets.
I hit my OG and am 4-5 points from final gravity after 6 days. I just want to bump it up in temp and see if I can get the last few points. The saison flavors are there already and I am currently sitting on a 6.4% traditional saison.

I hit my OG and am 4-5 points from final gravity after 6 days. I just want to bump it up in temp and see if I can get the last few points. The saison flavors are there already and I am currently sitting on a 6.4% traditional saison.
Posted on 2/15/16 at 1:41 pm to LSURoss
quote:
I hit my OG and am 4-5 points from final gravity after 6 days. I just want to bump it up in temp and see if I can get the last few points
Sounds like you are really close... At this point in fermentation I wouldn't be to concerned with getting it too hot. I'd probably wrap it with the heating blanket for a few hours to try and get it to the upper 70s.
Posted on 2/15/16 at 9:18 pm to LSUGrad00
Thanks. I need to try to learn that spreadsheet better now that I have 75% phosphoric in the house.
I used 2 mLs... We'll see how that works out.
I used 2 mLs... We'll see how that works out.
Posted on 2/16/16 at 7:08 pm to s14suspense
Hibiscus beer looks good. Sourness is at a good level. Now on to the sacch fermentation.


Posted on 2/16/16 at 10:23 pm to BottomlandBrew
Our Cherry Berliner looks a lot like that minus the clarity right now. Will take a pic tomorrow if it's better looking.
Posted on 2/16/16 at 10:45 pm to s14suspense
How'd you add the cherries? I tired a 49 oz. canned cherry puree in a beer of mine, and it only gave a hint of color in the final product.
Posted on 2/17/16 at 1:24 pm to BottomlandBrew
Alright, i need a vote. Do i brew my first sour next, or a Citrusy/Juicy IPA?
I would normally brew the sour, but one of my kegs just emptied, so i need something to fill it with before my other keg goes dry.
The IPA will either be a) a rehash Hopnotoad IPA with Citra Amarillo and Columbus b) the MACC IPA from Brulosophy, Mosaic, Amarillo, Citra, Centennial or c) a stone fruit/melon IPA with Galaxy, Mandarina Bavaria, and German Hull Melon (if i can find the hop).
I would normally brew the sour, but one of my kegs just emptied, so i need something to fill it with before my other keg goes dry.
The IPA will either be a) a rehash Hopnotoad IPA with Citra Amarillo and Columbus b) the MACC IPA from Brulosophy, Mosaic, Amarillo, Citra, Centennial or c) a stone fruit/melon IPA with Galaxy, Mandarina Bavaria, and German Hull Melon (if i can find the hop).
This post was edited on 2/17/16 at 1:26 pm
Posted on 2/17/16 at 1:51 pm to BugAC
quote:
Citrusy/Juicy IPA
You can't really go wrong with this choice.
Plus I wouldn't let a keg sit empty while I was waiting on brett to do it's thing.
Posted on 2/17/16 at 1:58 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
You can't really go wrong with this choice.
Plus I wouldn't let a keg sit empty while I was waiting on brett to do it's thing.
You've made up my mind.

Think i'm going to try that MACC IPA recipe, with some minor adjustments.
This post was edited on 2/17/16 at 1:59 pm
Posted on 2/17/16 at 3:06 pm to BugAC
Just placed my order, here's the recipe. Had to adjust the grains due to what was available.
quote:
12 lbs 4.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 86.0 %
12.0 oz Borlander Munich Malt (Briess) (10.0 SRM Grain 2 5.3 %
12.0 oz Honey Malt (Gambrinus) (25.0 SRM) Grain 3 5.3 %
8.0 oz Vienna (BestMälz) (4.1 SRM) Grain 4 3.5 %
1.00 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 5 35.7 IBUs
1.00 oz HopShot [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 27.1 IBUs
1.50 oz Amarillo [0.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 40. Hop 7 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [0.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 40.0 m Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [0.00 %] - Steep/Whirlp Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
0.75 oz Centennial [0.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 4 Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg San Diego Super Yeast (White Labs #WLP09 Yeast 11 -
1.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
Posted on 2/17/16 at 4:08 pm to BugAC
quote:
1.00 oz HopShot [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 27.1 IBUs
That's a shite load of hop shot for only 27 IBU.

Posted on 2/17/16 at 4:09 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
That's a shite load of hop shot for only 27 IBU. I'm assuming you're not actually adding 1 oz of hopshot.
Oh God no. I'm just adding enough to bring my IBU's to 60-65. Beersmith doesn't handle hopshot well.
Posted on 2/17/16 at 9:50 pm to BugAC
I need a fermentation chamber.
I have a mini fridge that I would like to keep using for regular storage. The mini fridge is very small. I am wondering if i would be able to continue to use this mini fridge for storage while also using it as a cooling source for mother of fermentation chiller. What i have in mind is to cut a hole into the side/top of the fridge big enough to fit a computer fan and duct this to the bottom of a basic mother of fermentation chiller.
Should i just make the mother of a chiller and use frozen bottles?
I have a mini fridge that I would like to keep using for regular storage. The mini fridge is very small. I am wondering if i would be able to continue to use this mini fridge for storage while also using it as a cooling source for mother of fermentation chiller. What i have in mind is to cut a hole into the side/top of the fridge big enough to fit a computer fan and duct this to the bottom of a basic mother of fermentation chiller.
Should i just make the mother of a chiller and use frozen bottles?
Posted on 2/17/16 at 9:59 pm to BugAC
Have you shared your recipe and methods for brewing a juicy ipa?
I'm pretty new to the game, but I am trying to research how to brew northeast style juicy ipas.
I'm pretty new to the game, but I am trying to research how to brew northeast style juicy ipas.
This post was edited on 2/17/16 at 10:01 pm
Posted on 2/17/16 at 10:05 pm to BugAC
quote:
Beersmith doesn't handle hopshot well
I upped the alpha acid on beer smith's hopshot entry to 24% and it calculates fairly close to the formula NB and the extra time companies provide.
ETA: I should clarify on that calculation... If you raise the AA of the hopshot to 24%, then 1oz of hopshot in beer smith will equal 100 IBUs. So if I need 50IBUs you just add .5oz to the recipe or 5ml in the boil.
This post was edited on 2/18/16 at 8:17 am
Posted on 2/18/16 at 12:50 am to BugAC
I think my ipa is just about carbed up. I have no idea why I didn't force carb this but I will never make that mistake again. Anyhow, I am really happy with how it came out(other than the abv being a little low) but I feel like something is missing from my hop profile. I used citra and mosaic to dry hop all 10 gallons then kegged 5. I am thinking I will use citra, mosaic and amarillo to dry hop the last 5 gallons. Anyone tried this combo? Of course what could be missing is the beer is 3 weeks old and just still green at this point, which makes me kinda want to keep my original plan of just citra and mosaic to see if age makes the difference. My end goal is to have a house ipa recipe I can repeat over and over again.


Posted on 2/18/16 at 8:25 am to GregMaddux
quote:
I'm pretty new to the game, but I am trying to research how to brew northeast style juicy ipas.
Loads of late hops. The trick for me, is i use a bittering addition to get the desired IBU's, then the rest is late.
What you will want to do is what is called a hop stand or whirlpool addition. Once your boil is complete, cool the wort to between 170-180 degrees. In this temperature range, you should not be picking up any of the alpha acid bitterness, and only the aroma oils of the hops. I do either a 1 or 2 addition hopstand. I prefer 2 additions, but it probably doesn't matter. So i chill to about 175 and put the kettle back on the burner and keep the temps in that range. I add my first addition of whirlpool hops, then 30 or 45 minutes later, i add the second addition, then 15 minutes later, i cool down to yeast pitching temps.
Then once fermentation is complete, i dry hop the shite out of the beer.
I've also found, the "juiciness" depends really on the hop. Some hops just don't throw off those flavors. For example, my last ipa i used the same technique but used Chinook, Columbus, and Simcoe. Though it was a good IPA, juiciness was not a descriptor at all.
Just google, hop stand or whirlpool hops. There was an article in Brew Your own regarding this, that was very helpful for me, i'll find it and link it.
ETA: Here's the article LINK
quote:
Three temperature profiles that seem to be popular among homebrewers are just off boil range 190–212 °F (88–100 °C), the sub-isomerization range 160–170 °F (71–77 °C), and a tepid hop stand range 140–150 °F (60–66 °C). The 190–212 °F (88–100 °C) range will allow essential oils with higher flashpoints an easier time to solubulize into the wort and also will allow some alpha acid isomerization to occur with the best estimates of between 5–15% utilization. Some homebrewers will keep their kettle burner on low to keep the temperature of the wort elevated above 200 °F (93 °C) during their extended hop stands which would better emulate the conditions in commercial whirlpools. A hop stand in the 160–170 °F (71–77 °C) range will basically shut down the alpha acid isomerization reaction and the lower temperatures will reduce the vaporization of the essential oils. Homebrewers can use their wort chillers to bring the wort down to this range before adding the knockout hops or they can add a second dose of knockout hops. The 140–150 °F (60–66 °C) range will once again reduce vaporization of the low flashpoint oils, but may take longer to get the same amount of essential oils extracted.
It appears the 160-170 range is the range to stop isomerization of the alpha acids, not 170-180. I'll be shooting for 170 saturday.
This post was edited on 2/18/16 at 8:33 am
Posted on 2/18/16 at 8:26 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
I upped the alpha acid on beer smith's hopshot entry to 24% and it calculates fairly close to the formula NB and the extra time companies provide.
ETA: I should clarify on that calculation... If you raise the AA of the hopshot to 24%, then 1oz of hopshot in beer smith will equal 100 IBUs. So if I need 50IBUs you just add .5oz to the recipe or 5ml in the boil.
Yeah, i play with the alpha acids to just get the amount of IBU's i want. It's really only on beersmith as a reminder for me.
Posted on 2/18/16 at 8:33 am to GregMaddux
quote:
I need a fermentation chamber.
I have a mini fridge that I would like to keep using for regular storage. The mini fridge is very small. I am wondering if i would be able to continue to use this mini fridge for storage while also using it as a cooling source for mother of fermentation chiller. What i have in mind is to cut a hole into the side/top of the fridge big enough to fit a computer fan and duct this to the bottom of a basic mother of fermentation chiller.
Should i just make the mother of a chiller and use frozen bottles?
Gotta be honest, i don't have any experience in using this. My first ferm control, i bought an igloo cube ice chest and used a drimmel tool to cut a hole in the lid to allow an opening for the neck of the carboy, filled it halfway with water, and alternated frozen water bottles to keep a constant temp. After about 3 or 4 batches i found a chest freezer on craigs list for $150 and i use that with a temp controller.
This post was edited on 2/18/16 at 8:35 am
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