- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Posted on 1/20/16 at 4:16 pm to s14suspense
quote:
Always have been able to. Usually about $150 to start that though. They seem to be dropping in price recently though.
I'm fine with BR water. I did the RO thing once and it was more of a pain in the arse than anything else. I figured my beer is good enough with BR water.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 4:19 pm to BugAC
quote:
Speaking of water, now you can make your own RO at home...
I was gifted one of those and it works great, but don't look at the amount of water it wastes....
I probably get 2G of waste water for every 1G RO collected.
I use it to clean and water plants, but I still tons left over that waters the lawn.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 4:35 pm to BugAC
quote:
I'm fine with BR water.
I would switch to RO for your next hoppy beer and see if you like the results.
IMO: Our water 'as is' is good for brewing dark beers, but the sodium level and pH are doing you no favors when brewing a lighter / hoppier beer.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 9:43 pm to s14suspense
I bought this scale for my brewing purposes since I am doing 1 gallon batches and working with hop amounts around 0.15 to 0.25 grams. I've been very pleased. It's pretty small and can't handle anything over 16 oz so would not be helpful for most of your measurements.
This post was edited on 1/20/16 at 9:44 pm
Posted on 1/21/16 at 9:21 am to AubieALUMdvm
Here's a nice recipe for you sour guys. It's rare barrels golden ale recipe which is the base for majority of their beers.
LINK
LINK
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:00 am to BugAC
quote:
ALL-GRAIN
OG: 1.049
FG: 1.006
IBU: 1
ABV: 5.25%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
6 lb 10 oz (3 kg) Pilsner
1 lb 2 oz (0.5 kg) Wheat malt
9 oz (0.25 kg) Aromatic malt (e.g., Franco-Belges)
9 oz (0.25 kg) Flaked oats
9 oz (0.25 kg) Spelt malt
HOPS SCHEDULE
0.125 oz (3.5 g) Strisselspalt [2.50%] at 60 minutes
DIRECTIONS
Mash for 90 minutes at 145°F (63°C), sparge, and boil for 90 minutes, following the hops schedule.
YEAST OPTIONS
Wyeast 3278 Belgian Lambic Blend
Wyeast 3763 Roeselare Ale Blend
White Labs WLP655 Belgian Sour Mix 1
White Labs WLP665 Flemish Ale Blend
That's a pretty standard grist for a sour, the low mash temp is interesting. You would think that would be a super fermentable wort that sac & lacto would chew through before the brett and pedio in those blends had an opportunity to do much.
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:01 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
That's a pretty standard grist for a sour, the low mash temp is interesting. You would think that would be a super fermentable wort that sac & lacto would chew through before the brett and pedio in those blends had an opportunity to do much.
From what i understand the low temp is for using one of the advised blends only. For a sach then sour strain, they suggest mashing at 155 i believe.
Also, I find the aromatic, spelt and oats to be a bit different from most sour grists. From what i've been seeing, and what cantillon uses, is usually just pilsner and wheat.
This post was edited on 1/21/16 at 10:06 am
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:23 am to BugAC
quote:
spelt and oats to be a bit different from most sour grists
Adding spelt, flaked oats, golden naked oat, rye to beers that contain brett and bacteria is something that became really popular after Chad Yakobsen started Crooked Stave. His research showed there were components in those cereal grains that brett wasn't able to break down and resulted in a better mouthfeel at lower gravities.
Since then you see these ingredients pop up all the time in more american craft sours and homebrew recipes.
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:25 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
Adding spelt, flaked oats, golden naked oat, rye to beers that contain brett and bacteria is something that became really popular after Chad Yakobsen started Crooked Stave. His research showed there were components in those cereal grains that brett wasn't able to break down and resulted in a better mouthfeel at lower gravities.
Since then you see these ingredients pop up all the time in more american craft sours and homebrew recipes.
Hmmm, i may tailor my recipe then to add some of these. I was concerned that the 60/40 2 row to wheat would be a little thin, especially if it finished below 1.010
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:29 am to BugAC
I think (been a while) that CY recommended something around 8%.
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:30 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
I think (been a while) that CY recommended something around 8%.
Yeah, those amounts in that recipe work out to about 7%. I already created a clone recipe in beersmith for it.
Posted on 1/21/16 at 10:58 am to BugAC
So opened to suggestions on this.
My Hopnotoad recipe, i am using columbus in the late additions. I've already decided to scratch columbus in the early addition and use magnum. I'm debating pulling columbus completely and using Mosaic in this IPA. What are your thoughts? It would be a citra, amarillo, mosaic IPA, aka, a fruity citrus bomb.
My Hopnotoad recipe, i am using columbus in the late additions. I've already decided to scratch columbus in the early addition and use magnum. I'm debating pulling columbus completely and using Mosaic in this IPA. What are your thoughts? It would be a citra, amarillo, mosaic IPA, aka, a fruity citrus bomb.
Posted on 1/21/16 at 8:28 pm to BugAC
I love Columbus and citra together. Why not drop the amarillo and go Columbus, citra, mosaic?
Posted on 1/22/16 at 8:41 am to AubieALUMdvm
Another new brewer question-
do most guys here rack their brew into a secondary fermenter? I did this on my first batch last weekend and it seems to have gone well. No evidence of infection and it looked like I got all of the beer off the yeast cake at the bottom. Beer appears to be gaining some clarity in the secondary container and sitting at 61 degrees.
do most guys here rack their brew into a secondary fermenter? I did this on my first batch last weekend and it seems to have gone well. No evidence of infection and it looked like I got all of the beer off the yeast cake at the bottom. Beer appears to be gaining some clarity in the secondary container and sitting at 61 degrees.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 8:54 am to AubieALUMdvm
Racking to a secondary fermenter really doesn't do much for you except give you an extra carboy to clean.
The only time I'll use a secondary is if I have a batch that I want to add fruit, I'll ferment the beer in a carboy and then rack onto the fruit in a bucket.
The only time I'll use a secondary is if I have a batch that I want to add fruit, I'll ferment the beer in a carboy and then rack onto the fruit in a bucket.
This post was edited on 1/22/16 at 8:55 am
Posted on 1/22/16 at 8:55 am to AubieALUMdvm
quote:
do most guys here rack their brew into a secondary fermenter? I did this on my first batch last weekend and it seems to have gone well. No evidence of infection and it looked like I got all of the beer off the yeast cake at the bottom. Beer appears to be gaining some clarity in the secondary container and sitting at 61 degrees.
I think this has become the most asked question on this board from new brewers.

There are very few of us (if any) on this board who rack to the secondary for normal beers. The potential problems completely outweigh the benefits that secondary provides. there are plenty of times when you want to add fruit or other flavorings, when it would be worthwhile to transfer. But just for normal beers (hell I dry hop in primary) there is no reason to put your beer into the secondary.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 8:57 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
Racking to a secondary fermenter really doesn't do much for you except give you an extra carboy to clean.
This.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:07 am to Fratastic423
quote:
(hell I dry hop in primary)
So this was my follow-up if you all had said racking was not necessary. So I would just toss the hops into the carboy, put my cap/airlock back on and just leave it? If that works I'll try it.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:21 am to AubieALUMdvm
Yessir, that's all you need to do
I use a secondary for fruit or coconut additions and if I want to take a clean beer and sour it.
I use a secondary for fruit or coconut additions and if I want to take a clean beer and sour it.
Popular
Back to top
