re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread

How do you adjust utilization? The hop profiles on shows AA% Beta % and Hop Storage index.

Trial and error. That's how I did.

"Whirlppol at 200 to 190 for 15 minutes...too bitter"
"Whirlpool at 180 to 170 for 10 minutes...Not enough"
"Whirlpool at 185 to 170 for 15 minutes...there we go"

I made up those numbers, but seriously, just try different combos out. You learn more that way rather depending on number someone told you that might not apply to your setup and process.

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If I want big hop aroma and flavor from my last addition I chill to 180F-170F, stop the chilling process, toss the hops in, let them sit for 15-30 minutes, continue chilling to pitch temps.

I have no scientific explanation of why it works, but its works on my system.

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Exactly what I do.

so far so good on the split batch. Brewed a big beer, then split it and diluted them. Dilution makes it easy to hit my table beer OG.

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My starter is not starting, so I'm not sure when I will actually brew the table beer

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That sucks. We added dark cherries to our Gose on Tuesday night and it's been fermenting away since wednesday morning.

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Doesn't Beersmith have a 'whirlpool hop' option on hop additions?

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Yes it does. But i've been setting the time at 0 minutes. I assumed that beersmith didn't know about the IBU points contributed via whirlpool hopping. Maybe i was wrong.

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If I want big hop aroma and flavor from my last addition I chill to 180F-170F, stop the chilling process, toss the hops in, let them sit for 15-30 minutes, continue chilling to pitch temps.

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Previously, my whirlpooling hops were added directly after boil shut off. Last IPA i made, i cooled down the wort to add the hops. However, i cooled down to about 130, then added the whirlpool hops, then continued to further cool down the wort. I never let it sit 15 minutes, as i was afraid of the wort not cooling down fast enough.

The reason for chilling wort quickly is to avoid oxidation, infection, and any sulfur compounds. Not to mention clarity with the cold break. Is this something to be concerned about, or do y'all just do it anyway?

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The reason for chilling wort quickly is to avoid oxidation, infection, and any sulfur compounds. Not to mention clarity with the cold break. Is this something to be concerned about, or do y'all just do it anyway?

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oxidation - no worries about oxidation before pitching yeast (or shortly after for that matter)

infection - I keep the lid on and even with the 30 min "hop stand" my temp is still well above 140F. At that temp you really don't have to worry about much.

sulfur compounds - sulfur is typically yeast derived and not chilling. Maybe you are thinking DMS? I only concern myself with when using a lot of pils and even then I just boil longer.

clarity - I don't worry about this at all with IPAs. It's an IPA not a Michelob Ultra. I still use whirlflock, but no gelatin or any stuff like that post fermentation.

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clarity - I don't worry about this at all with IPAs. It's an IPA not a Michelob Ultra. I still use whirlflock, but no gelatin or any stuff like that post fermentation.

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for 3 years I subscribed to the thinking that I dont care what the beer looks like, then for kicks I decided to try gelatin

holy shite, I'll never go back.

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LSUGrad00

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Didn't know that was there. Thanks. It appears there was some consideration on beersmith about this.

Anyone here brew an Oktoberfest before with lager yeast?

This will be my first lager brew. Plan on brewing next Sunday.

I plan on making a starter, i'm assuming i need to be at lager temps for the starter? I was wondering if any harm would be done if i made the starter Saturday, and let it sit around 68 degrees, then pitch Sunday as it cools.

If anything, i would think a warmer starter would accelerate some cell growth and work well by the time i pitch sunday.

If not feasible, i may just try and use a clean ale yeast, like WLP001, and ferment around 67 or maybe a Kolsch yeast, and ferment low and slow for about 2 weeks, say around 62-64 degrees.