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re: Exploring the food culture in Vietnam beyond pho

Posted on 6/24/24 at 12:01 pm to
Posted by BhamTigah
Lurker since Jan 2003
Member since Jan 2007
17311 posts
Posted on 6/24/24 at 12:01 pm to
That last banh mi (21) looks a little overloaded with mint. A little mint goes a long way.
Posted by PeteRose
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17819 posts
Posted on 6/24/24 at 11:05 pm to
I can handle the mint. It’s the flavorless pate that made it average.
Posted by PeteRose
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Posted on 6/24/24 at 11:20 pm to
Visited a couple of cool temples yesterday.

Very quiet away from the touristy temples.




Marble mountain. Walking these steps feels like carrying water buckets for Pai Mei. There was a monk that came out of nowhere and started skipping these steps like it was nothing.





Went to a com nieu(clay rice) restaurant afterward.

Restaurant


Here is the rice. Cooked in a clay pot over charcoal. The outer layers of the rice is toasted and crispy.



Braised cobia with pork belly. Very good. But dipping the crispy rice to braising juice this the best part of the meal.



Tamarind cobia soup


Fried soft tofu. It’s like fried soft cheese with a hint of soy.



Fried tofu with tomato sauce. This was surprisingly good.


Stir fry morning glory(x2), as expected.


Stir fry veal with betel leaves.


Fried squid, no pic. Pretty cheap for $45, enough for 7.





This post was edited on 6/24/24 at 11:39 pm
Posted by LouisianaLady
Member since Mar 2009
82666 posts
Posted on 6/24/24 at 11:58 pm to
Thought of you today because I made Goi Ga for dinner. The photos look great. Keep em coming!
Posted by PeteRose
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17819 posts
Posted on 6/25/24 at 1:08 am to
Got a pic of it? Got to be good if it’s coming from the food challenge champion.
Posted by Dead Mike
Cell Block 4
Member since Mar 2010
3929 posts
Posted on 6/25/24 at 9:06 am to
This is possibly my favorite thread.
Posted by PeteRose
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Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/26/24 at 10:06 am to
Visiting Hoi An right now. When people think of Hoi An food, they think of banh mi. This is thanks to Anthony Bourdain from his first visit to Vietnam where he put Banh Mi Phuong on the map. If you type in “hoi an banh mi” on YouTube, 4/5 videos will be about this location’s banh mi. Personally, I think it’s overrated when I had it, and I think it’s a too touristy. The locals don’t eat it. On top of that, there was an outbreak of food poisoning last year. For these reasons, I’ll try other spots.


First spot is Phi Banh Mi. This location has 5 star rating on Trip Advisor with close to 2600 reviews. Banh Mi Phuong only has a 4.5 rating even with Bourdain’s help.

Back story is that the owner(Phi) wanted to help out his mom who was selling che dessert into her late 60s. So he started learning and perfecting his banh mi recipe. In 2013 he opened his shop and it’s been a success ever since. Btw, this story is on YouTube.



Phi making the banh mi.


The special banh mi(#22)
Overall very good. Super toasty bread.


Family pictures on the wall. I asked his his parents are still alive and well and he said yes. Mom is 80 and dad is 85.




Good banh mi and very nice guy.



This post was edited on 6/26/24 at 10:07 am
Posted by PeteRose
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Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/26/24 at 10:22 am to
Next banh mi location is Sum Banh Mi, a popular local spot.





Deluxe Banh mi (#23). Here’s the one if a kind Hoi An bread with pointy ends. Btw, each region has their bread for banh mi. Personally, I think Hoi An has the best bread for banh mi.


Very good banh mi, the creamy pate and sauce took to his banh mi to the next level.


Posted by SUB
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Member since Jan 2009
24673 posts
Posted on 6/26/24 at 10:27 am to
God damn I am drooling. That last one looks fantastic!
Posted by BhamTigah
Lurker since Jan 2003
Member since Jan 2007
17311 posts
Posted on 6/26/24 at 10:43 am to
Those last 2 banh mi look fantastic. The bread looks a bit like a bolillo roll used often for tortas.
Posted by JW
Los Angeles
Member since Jul 2004
5156 posts
Posted on 6/26/24 at 7:10 pm to
I don’t really associate Hoi A with Banh Mi’s as much …. Report back with some Cao Lau dishes !

It is a pleasant city especially with the beaches nearby …. Crowded by the river, but never feels too constricted. My Son is worth a visit as well.



Posted by PeteRose
Hall of Fame
Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/27/24 at 6:41 am to
What you know about cao lau?


Here’s my breakfast cao lau at the hotel. Pretty good. These noodles are like a thick fettuccine with some bounce. They are not eaten with a broth but a sauce to coat the noodles along with pork belly, rinds, and greens.


Posted by PeteRose
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Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/27/24 at 7:01 am to
Went biking around the surrounding rice paddies near the hotel and saw a cool coffee shop.



Our drinks


Nice view. I was told that come harvest time these rice plants will double in size and the fields become yellow.


Went to the famous White Rose dumpling restaurant for lunch.


Restaurant has two dishes: steamed and fried dumplings. We got one of each.

Steamed dumpling plate had two dumplings. One that looks like a rose with ground pork in the middle. The other is a closed dumpling filled with vegetables…carrots, sprouts, green onions, mushrooms. Both good delicate dumplings but I prefer the closed one.





Fried dumplings. I feel this was dish was a bad execution. Tiny fried dumpling wrappers the size of a small pizza topped with sweet and sour stir fry. The stir fry was too sweet. The fried wrappers were a bit thin so when you bite it, it would crumble and the stir fry topping would fall everywhere.


Posted by PeteRose
Hall of Fame
Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/27/24 at 7:17 am to
Took my bike and got a few banh mis in the afternoon.

Banh Mi Lanh combination(#24), a local favorite. Egg mayo, wet pate, two dark sauce, another oil sauce, chili aoli, carrots, shredded green payaya(seems like preferred over daikon over here), mint, Vietnamese coriander. A-





Next banh mi is a vegetarian banh mi (#25)



Toasting it. Boy was it hot.


I’m not even going to try and guess the vegetarian “meat”. Good overall B+.



Last one is a pita bread kind of banh mi(#26). These seem to be gaining popularity recently and the filings are not similar with traditional banh mi.



Pressed grilled



Pork, shredded cabbage, cucumber, tomato, two kinds of sauce. A+



4 more banh mi to go.
This post was edited on 6/27/24 at 7:20 am
Posted by JW
Los Angeles
Member since Jul 2004
5156 posts
Posted on 6/27/24 at 9:06 am to
Cmon Pete … I’ve been in SE Asia for 7 months straight for work, have been working in this region 2 years out of the last 5 and date a well known Vietnamese Fashion Designer.

You aren’t the only one my man! But you clearly have mastered posting photos on this site, which i haven’t yet..

Keep it up and enjoy your last few weeks —- I have two months to go
Posted by PeteRose
Hall of Fame
Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/27/24 at 9:46 am to
I was just messing around. I know you have a buddy around here.

I might know how to maneuver in VN but you can show me a thing or two in Thailand. Had this been a solo trip, no doubt I’d spend a couple weeks there.
This post was edited on 6/27/24 at 9:47 am
Posted by Carson123987
Middle Court at the Rec
Member since Jul 2011
67782 posts
Posted on 6/27/24 at 10:32 am to
quote:

Walking these steps feels like carrying water buckets for Pai Mei.


LMAO
Posted by PeteRose
Hall of Fame
Member since Aug 2014
17819 posts
Posted on 6/29/24 at 7:24 am to
Last day in Hoi An. Lunch:

Cao Lau noodles


Baby clam salad


Just scoop it up with crunchy toasted rice paper. Pretty cool dish.



Random jackfruit tree in front of the restaurant. Very odd that the fruit can grow from the trunk.


Chicken rice for dinner. A bit underwhelming.


Good news is that there was a nearby bar with a band. They were singing Bill Withers, “Ain’t No Sunshine” surprisingly good.
Posted by LouisianaLady
Member since Mar 2009
82666 posts
Posted on 6/29/24 at 8:31 am to
quote:

I’ve been in SE Asia for 7 months straight for work, have been working in this region 2 years out of the last 5 and date a well known Vietnamese Fashion Designer.


Dude. Tell us more!
Posted by JW
Los Angeles
Member since Jul 2004
5156 posts
Posted on 6/29/24 at 11:04 pm to
I’m lucky enough to be working on the new white lotus season in Thailand ….. but I love getting over to Vietnam …. My favorite. Pete is really digging in and loving the thread.

I’ll leave the lady’s name off the board but she does a lot of custom work for singers (j lo, Carrie underwood, etc) and was on a season of Next In Fashion.

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