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TWP Stain on cypress

Posted on 1/6/21 at 4:08 pm
Posted by MagnumTA
Walker
Member since Nov 2012
206 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 4:08 pm
Currently in the process of building. Can those of you that have used TWP on cypress columns post a picture? I was originally planning to use the dark oak.

I put some minwax dark walnut on a scrap piece, and it was almost black. We want them to be on the darker side, but not to dark. I'm worried that the TWP dark oak will end up being to dark as well.

So, can anyone that as used it post a pic?

Thanks
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
77947 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 4:15 pm to
not on cypress but i used the dark twp on my whole deck and i hated it.

i think i bought into the hype. it was hot as hell in the summer too. couldn't even walk on it.
Posted by MagnumTA
Walker
Member since Nov 2012
206 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 4:22 pm to
I won't be walking on the post, LOL. I've got 10 of them between the front and back of the house. I just want a darker color in something that will last the longest. Direct sun want be to much of a problem.
Posted by LSUtigerME
Walker, LA
Member since Oct 2012
3789 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 4:24 pm to
I bought two gallons of TWP Pecan to do my posts and didn’t like the way it looked vs the sample.

I ended up going with a Minwax stain and some poly. I’ll have to recoat every few years but I like the way it came out.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15028 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 6:38 pm to
Staining tip:

If you want the stain to come out more evenly colored across the entire column, hit it with a piss coat of shellac first, then sand with 220 paper to smooth it out and then stain.

To make a piss coat of shellac use 1 part shellac to 2 parts denatured alcohol and wipe it on starting at the top and working down.

Cypress often has the habit of staining much darker in some spots than others and that makes if have a splotchy appearance.

Try it out of a scrap piece of wood to see what I mean. Shellac one side and not the other and see how the stain lays.
Posted by MagnumTA
Walker
Member since Nov 2012
206 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 7:35 pm to
Interesting, I'll try that. The scrap piece I originally stained sucked it up pretty quickly, and was really dark.

I talked to the painter, and he said sometimes they will mix TWP clear with a color to lighten it up.
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
1735 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 7:41 pm to
I tested TWP on cypress. To me, it did not make the grain pop at all like other finishes. I wasn’t as worried about preservation, so I didn’t use it.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15028 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 9:17 pm to
quote:

Interesting, I'll try that. The scrap piece I originally stained sucked it up pretty quickly, and was really dark


Just so you know, the shellac will be like water it is so viscous. That is why I recommend using a rag to apply it if the columns are standing in place, and only one coat with as little overlap as possible.

It will dry very quickly due to the alcohol evaporating, so there is very little down time before you can stain it.
Posted by Jon A thon
Member since May 2019
1627 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 9:31 pm to
you could also just use a pre-stain conditioner. Same concept I'm sure as the thinned shelac. Except it's specifically designed for it. limits stain abosrbtion so that area that typically "over-absorb" don't and everything comes out more even. I've had good results. Seems to me that if you don't get the shellac mixture right, you might put a seal coat over the wood. I use Shellac on my workbench to protect it from paints/stains/wood glue/etc..

I admit I'm not an expert though.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15028 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 9:46 pm to
If you mix 2 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part shellac, you can't go wrong. Just use a measuring cup and do it in that ratio and it is foolproof.

What I love about this mix is the quickness in drying time. I've done pieces of furniture applying the piss coat and when done it only took a few minutes time and it could be sanded with 220 to give it a glass smooth surface to apply stain to.

Most other products like you mention take more time to dry so they can be sanded.
Posted by Jon A thon
Member since May 2019
1627 posts
Posted on 1/6/21 at 9:57 pm to
I'm not talking about a sanding sealer. The pre stains I've used actually require you to stain within 2 hours of applying. I wait maybe 20 minutes. If you leave them too long, they aren't effective
Posted by TigerSprings
Southeast LA
Member since Jan 2019
1585 posts
Posted on 1/8/21 at 10:21 am to
Is the wood sanded? That will make a huge difference in absorption.
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