- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Winter Olympics
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Furring strips on cinder block
Posted on 3/31/21 at 4:56 pm
Posted on 3/31/21 at 4:56 pm
I am planning to put either beadboard or shiplap over cinder block walls in our basement and need to put in furring strips first; will glue and screw them. Only about 12 inches of two walls are below grade; the other wall is above grade. I’ve been told by one carpenter to only use treated furring strips on cinder block and another who said only the below grade portion should have treated strips with the remainder non treated. Which one is correct? With the current price of lumber, I’m trying to safe where I can. If it makes any difference, the block walls are painted. Thanks!
3
Posted on 3/31/21 at 11:10 pm to Edwardo
Just use steel like framing cheep easy
Posted on 4/1/21 at 7:15 am to Edwardo
Just use treated and know you're safe from any possible infestation of termites in the future.
In every house I've owned when moving walls, building walls or replacing segments of walls, I use treated lumber as my framing.
I know lumber prices are stupid right now, but peace of mind is worth a few more dollars in my opinion.
And gluing and screwing them to secure them to the blocking is a great idea since treated lumber is usually pretty wet when bought and I wouldn't simply rely on construction adhesive under those circumstances.
In every house I've owned when moving walls, building walls or replacing segments of walls, I use treated lumber as my framing.
I know lumber prices are stupid right now, but peace of mind is worth a few more dollars in my opinion.
And gluing and screwing them to secure them to the blocking is a great idea since treated lumber is usually pretty wet when bought and I wouldn't simply rely on construction adhesive under those circumstances.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 8:22 am to gumbo2176
quote:
In every house I've owned when moving walls, building walls or replacing segments of walls, I use treated lumber as my framing.
No problem with the logic, but I hope you used KDAT and not the wet, #3 banana wood you get from the big orange box. Also hope you used compatible screws.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 12:42 pm to gumbo2176
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/17/21 at 9:38 pm
Posted on 4/1/21 at 8:51 pm to Edwardo
Just my opinion, but if you are getting enough moisture through the wall on the section of the wall below grade to justify using treated lumber for your furring strip you will most likely have a problem with moisture getting to your sheetrock. I would check the moisture of the wall, apply a few coats of block sealer and then Use 1x3 utility for the firing strips attached with drive pins.
Posted on 4/1/21 at 9:14 pm to Triggerr
How do you check moisture of the wall? The house was built in 2005 and there is no outward sign of water intrusion but the humidity in the basement can get to 60% with high outdoor humidity.
Posted on 4/2/21 at 6:29 am to Edwardo
Moisture meter, stainless screws with probes attached or drill and leave in moisture reader/ probe. You need to fix your moisture problem before you try to hang Sheetrock and finish off the space. Otherwise you are going to create major problems for yourself. Again this is just my $.02 and is worth what you are paying for it , but I do have some experience with this type of thing.
Posted on 4/2/21 at 7:15 am to Triggerr
I’m not using sheet rock; I’m using bead board or shiplap, if that makes any difference.
Posted on 4/2/21 at 9:04 am to Edwardo
quote:
I’m using bead board or shiplap, if that makes any difference.
Nope, mold will grow on wood just as easily as sheetrock. It just won't deteriorate as quickly.
Posted on 4/2/21 at 9:32 am to gumbo2176
I don’t know the method to solve the moisture, you can certainly waterproof the blocks. But you may consider some thicker boards than 1x’s to give yourself more air flow between your blocks and your wood wall. You could also paint with mold preventative primer. But ultimately you definitely need to solve the moisture issue first.
Posted on 4/2/21 at 11:01 am to Triggerr
Who mentioned moisture problem?
(op never did)
(op never did)
Posted on 4/2/21 at 1:14 pm to awestruck
No idea where I got the idea he had a moisture issue. If no moisture issue and interior just use 1x3 utility firing strips attached with drive pins and let it rip
Posted on 4/2/21 at 1:40 pm to baldona
quote:
But you may consider some thicker boards than 1x’s to give yourself more air flow between your blocks and your wood wall.
I almost always use 2 layers of furring strip. Using 3/4" short screws to hang drywall/siding is dumb. Would much prefer to hang a 2nd strip with 1 1/4 screws. 2 layers allows you to use 1 1/2 inch foam insulation as well. Not always necessary, but most of my builds it is preferred.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News