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Homemade Pizza Dough Tips (and recipe)

Posted on 3/21/21 at 12:27 pm
Posted by Grillades
Member since Nov 2009
552 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 12:27 pm
I started making pizza dough at home about 20 years ago. I have made thousands of pizzas over the years (no exaggeration). I played with the dough recipe for ten years, oftentimes cooking a dozen pizzas on a Saturday just to test. I messed up a lot of dough before figuring some things out. Before I share what I learned, I understand that there are many ways to make quality bread. Yours may differ so I am not claiming that this is the pizza Bible. Anyhow, I found some things that allowed me to make great pizza dough in my kitchen using my oven. Hopefully, my failures might help beginners make consistently delicious pizza dough. Here are my findings.

Bread making is considerably different than cooking meats and vegetables. Bread making ingredients make far less difference than technique will. IMHO, time, temperature, and kneading determine the outcome of the dough. Cheap AP flour, instant yeast, and tap water done right will absolutely crush imported Caputo flour, fresh yeast, and spring water done wrong. Simply mix the ingredients, cover it, then walk away. Be patient for 30 minutes or so to allow the flour to hydrate. Then, knead until sufficient gluten develops. The wait (or autolyse as the French call it) will allow the dough to get softer, smoother, and more elastic.

There is no substitute for time when making any bread, pizza dough included. The faster a dough is fermented, the less flavor and texture it will have. If you load up yeast and try to have the dough ready in three hours, you will get a white dough with many small bubbles and little flavor. Cut the yeast, extend the time, and reap the rewards. Properly fermented dough is yellowish and full of irregular bubbles. It is easier to handle and shape without tearing. I much prefer either a 2-day cold fermentation in the refrigerator using 0.5% yeast or a 10 hour room-temp fermentation using very little yeast (as low as 0.07%). Honestly, time and temperature require a book to fully cover. You should test and observe the differences.

The basic formula for home-oven dough is not the same for high-heat oven (700-900F) dough. Conventional oven dough is formulated to cook around 500F on a pizza stone, sheet pan, or cooking steel. If that is the type of oven you have, do not fool with Neapolitan-style doughs and techniques. They will always render doughs that are white and insipid in a home oven. After the third 55lb. bag of Caputo 00 flour yielded the same mediocre result, I finally capitulated. Garden-variety AP or bread flour work better in a home oven. Side note - there are ways to cook Neapolitan-style pizza in a home oven using a broiler and whatnot but are way more work. Also, I don't think it is worth the effort. A gas or wood-burning outdoor pizza oven is another matter entirely but that's for a separate post. Those pizzas can be terrific.

For accuracy and consistency, always portion ingredients by weight not volume. Also, using Baker's Percentages for the recipe makes it easier to scale the quantity up or down. For a basic home-oven dough recipe, I use:
AP or bread flour (I prefer unbleached flour but any will work)
66% hydration
2% salt
0.1% instant yeast (based on an 8-hour room temp fermentation)
4% fat (oil, butter, etc.)

For three New York style thin-crust 13" pizzas (300g dough each):
522g flour
344g water
0.5g instant yeast
11g salt
23g fat

For three thicker-crust 13" pizzas (500g dough each):
869g flour
573g water
0.9g yeast
17g salt
39g fat

From my experience, getting the technique worked out before you start messing with ingredients will yield significantly better results.

After reading my own post, I may have created more questions than answers. If so, fire away and I will share what I have learned. If you have tips for me, I would be grateful if you shared them. I am always looking to eat better pizza.
Posted by RockyMtnTigerWDE
War Damn Eagle Dad!
Member since Oct 2010
105446 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 12:43 pm to
I have done Neapolitan style in my home oven and use two stones top and bottom and use the broiler and bake method. It is definitely worth the effort for me. We have no pizza joint where I live that does good pizza. I had to learn if I wanted it and not the chains.

It’s all relative I guess whether it’s worth it and I do a slow fermented low yeast and agree with a lot you have shared but I do not have the experience you have. I have just found a dough and method that friends, family, and myself love and that goal has been accomplished.

However, I am always trying different things to see if I can get better beyond my consistent go to because it’s fun. Thank you for the post.
Posted by TigerFanatic99
South Bend, Indiana
Member since Jan 2007
27682 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 1:34 pm to
So you listed the ingredients, but a recipe needs instructions as well. Let's say I wanna do the thicker 13 inch pizza. I want to put it in the oven at 5pm, and make the dough around 7pm the night before to give ferment time.
Posted by KosmoCramer
Member since Dec 2007
76550 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 1:58 pm to
1. I would recommend getting a 1/8th tsp for the yeast. Typical kitchen scales aren't accurate enough for that. Better to do it by volume.

ETA:1/8 tsp of ADY is ~.5g

2. I wouldn't use a pizza stone, I'd recommend a steel. If you want to get into bread (french baguettes, etc.) You can go to a steel fabricator with the measurement of your oven and have them cut something for you. Here is the guide for that: Pizzamaking Forun
This post was edited on 3/21/21 at 2:03 pm
Posted by jojothetireguy
Live out in Coconut Grove
Member since Jan 2009
10486 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 2:00 pm to
Read for a home oven when using a pizza stone, to heat up the stone as hot as possible and then add the pizza, turn the heat off and turn on the broiler. What's your opinion on that?
Posted by vuvuzela
Oregon
Member since Jun 2010
14663 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 7:37 pm to
Awesome post, thank you for sharing it!
Posted by ChEgrad
Member since Nov 2012
3276 posts
Posted on 3/21/21 at 8:24 pm to
Great post.

I use fresh mozzarella. What do you recommend?

I have gone through all of this, but not to the same extent as you. I have arrived at my method and my pizzas rival any of those I get at restaurants - even in pizza Meccas like New Haven.

I use a steel and 550 F oven on convection roast. If you are making many pizzas, then a steel retains heat better and you still get good charting on the bottom of each pizza. With a stone, my subsequent pizzas weren’t as good. It takes 4-5 minutes for my pizzas to bake.

I found that I can use 00 flour, but I add a bit of honey so it gets some color. Without a sugar it won’t brown at 550 F. I only use 00 flour for same-day dough. Sometimes. I almost always use AP flour.

I do a 3-day ferment in the refrigerator. One-day if no time. Same day in a pinch, but with an 8-hour or so room temperature ferment.

I bought a covered, plastic proofing tray that fits 6 doughs. I love it and it fits in the refrigerator. Technically it is a half-size proofing tray I think.

I use semolina flour for shaping and in the peel. Just seem to prefer it, although I will use regular flour if I don’t have semolina.

Homemade pizza is a great dinner party food - sit around, drink, make pizzas and eat them as the come out.

Posted by lsu1987
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2005
441 posts
Posted on 3/23/21 at 9:23 pm to
Do you mix all ingredients together and let them rest before kneading, or just the flour and water for the autolyse phase? Thanks!
Posted by LordSaintly
Member since Dec 2005
38954 posts
Posted on 3/24/21 at 11:50 pm to
I have pizza dough that's currently rising in the fridge. But, I accidentally used self-rising flour. I realized this after I already added the yeast.

This is my first time making a homemade pizza dough. Should I even bother with this batch or should I start over?
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