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Message
re: Spraying St aug for weeds now?
Posted on 5/21/20 at 1:15 pm to NOLAGT
Posted on 5/21/20 at 1:15 pm to NOLAGT
quote:
It said up to 90 I thought, thats why I was thinking about it since its not quite there yet. Maybe too close for comfort I guess.
I stand corrected - the label on that product does say 90 F so you can use it, but I’d apply it in the morning. You do have Bermudagrass or zoysia I assume, as that product can’t be used on St Augustine or Centipede.
Many products containing 2,4-D recommend that they not be used at temps above the mid 80s although those are formulations that can be used on St Aug or centipede.
Posted on 5/21/20 at 1:19 pm to CrawDude
I have st aug...it says its for st aug.
Posted on 5/21/20 at 1:40 pm to NOLAGT
quote:
have st aug...it says its for st aug.
OK - I guess I looked at the wrong label. The Spectracide Weed Stop label (plus crabgrass killer In small print) I looked at has Quinclorac in the formulation which is not safe on St Augustine. LINK
As long as you are using this formulation of Spectracide Weed Stop you are OK. LINK. Just double check.
Posted on 5/21/20 at 4:07 pm to CrawDude
Yea this one doesnt do crabgrass...altho I wish it would I have some of that as well
Posted on 5/21/20 at 5:33 pm to jimbeam
I use dismiss on all sedges green killings and salads drass on my bermuda
Posted on 5/21/20 at 5:34 pm to ole man
quote:old man started drinking early
green killings and salads drass
Posted on 5/21/20 at 6:24 pm to ole man
I keep my salads in the garden but you do you
Posted on 5/22/20 at 1:56 am to PillageUrVillage
This information is a bit wrong. Celsius+ Revolver kills dallisgrass but even it needs two apps.
In Bermuda I would just use MSMA
In Bermuda I would just use MSMA
Posted on 5/22/20 at 1:57 am to jimbeam
quote:
Damn I didnt think Dismiss was labeled for dallis. I’ll have to try some here soon.
You would definitely be wasting your money
Posted on 5/22/20 at 7:00 am to CrawDude
So the spectraside I have in the hose end sprayer says 85 and the hand held spray bottle I have says 90 so I don’t know what to think lol. Both are the yellow top 24D.
I probably need to start with a soil test. And what about thatch...is that a issue of mine too?
My front is worse with these areas that are think like this. Not real green. Some spots look good and green. Last thing I did was Scott’s max green about 2 months ago. I was going to try to spray weeds and put down some more fert.
I dug my finger into this one
I probably need to start with a soil test. And what about thatch...is that a issue of mine too?
My front is worse with these areas that are think like this. Not real green. Some spots look good and green. Last thing I did was Scott’s max green about 2 months ago. I was going to try to spray weeds and put down some more fert.
I dug my finger into this one
Posted on 5/22/20 at 11:09 am to NOLAGT
quote:
So the spectraside I have in the hose end sprayer says 85 and the hand held spray bottle I have says 90 so I don’t know what to think lol. Both are the yellow top 24D.
I probably need to start with a soil test. And what about thatch...is that a issue of mine too?
My front is worse with these areas that are think like this. Not real green. Some spots look good and green. Last thing I did was Scott’s max green about 2 months ago. I was going to try to spray weeds and put down some more fert.
Well why take a chance, 2,4D is known to damage desirable turf at high temperature, save it for fall or late winter use. MSM Turf and Celsius have a higher temperature leeway for use - consider those, just be aware that most post-emergent herbicides have have a higher probably of damaging, or temporarily stunting desirable turf grasses at high temperatures.
Your St Augustine lawn looks chlorotic, and those patches of dead grass suggest you might have/had lawn disease issue. I’m not comfortable in my knowledge of lawn diseases so if ronk sees your post perhaps he can provide some thoughts and advice. If your lawn is under stress because of a disease related issue, I might not use a herbicide in that area of the lawn for the time being. I don’t see any significant weed issue in the photos you posted.
Thatch - dig up a divot or 2 from the yard to see how thick the thatch layer is. LINK If your lawn is compacted perhaps core aeration would be more desirable than a dethatching process. LINK
Soil analysis for base line info is always a good idea.
You are probably due for a another lawn fertilization if done a couple months back with Scott’s - which I think is usually a fast release product.
This post was edited on 5/23/20 at 8:46 am
Posted on 5/23/20 at 6:39 am to CrawDude
Those patches are ones (I think) that never really grew in from the winter die off. My front goes completely brown and the grass just hasn’t don’t much in the front. Back is better but still has some thin spots.
Not spraying the spectraside. I’ll look at the other two
I’ll try to dig up some cores and check thatch. I have a de thatcher I can drag behind my zero turn. I used it last a cpl years ago and I don’t bag clipping I mulch when I cut. I don’t know if the thatch will be thick but in those thin spots it seems disturbing it would let fertilizer get down better?
What’s a good fertilizer to lay down now? I have some milorganite I intend to start laying down as a supplement.
Not spraying the spectraside. I’ll look at the other two
I’ll try to dig up some cores and check thatch. I have a de thatcher I can drag behind my zero turn. I used it last a cpl years ago and I don’t bag clipping I mulch when I cut. I don’t know if the thatch will be thick but in those thin spots it seems disturbing it would let fertilizer get down better?
What’s a good fertilizer to lay down now? I have some milorganite I intend to start laying down as a supplement.
This post was edited on 5/23/20 at 6:42 am
Posted on 5/23/20 at 7:16 am to NOLAGT
You have/had fungal issues. That spot I circled is an indication. I don't know if you feel like doing all of this but it can be corrected. I would aerate the lawn, fertilize with a 25% N at 4lbs per thousand, and top dress with peat moss.
Don't use Celsius. Use MSM for spot treatment. While I love Celsius two of the three active ingredients are for grassy weeds. If a lawn is stressed I do not like putting that on the lawn. MSM is much more gentle on grass.
Posted on 5/23/20 at 11:16 am to ronk
Roger I’ll do that. What fertilizer you have in mind. My Lowe’s has some stagreen stuff that’s 29-0-5 with 2% iron and some Scott’s turf builder that’s 32-0-10. The rest is the weed and feed type stuff.
How much peat moss? I have never fooled with that before. They have some 3cft bundles at the Lowe’s. That will help cure the fungus or should I get some of that DiseaseX as well?
Thanks...I want to get my lawn back in shape.
How much peat moss? I have never fooled with that before. They have some 3cft bundles at the Lowe’s. That will help cure the fungus or should I get some of that DiseaseX as well?
Thanks...I want to get my lawn back in shape.
Posted on 5/23/20 at 11:48 am to NOLAGT
I’d look at site one for fert. 25-3-5 or something similar. The 3 cft from Home Depot/Lowe’s is what I use. Spread it in a thin layer 1/4-1/2 inch. You can do it over the affected area or the whole lawn. Don’t get disease x just yet. Peat moss should take care of it
Posted on 5/23/20 at 7:09 pm to ronk
I'm having problems with thatch in my St. Aug as well. I applied disease X a few days ago and was planning on fertilizing this weekend.
Should I apply some peat moss first and wait to fertilize?
Should I apply some peat moss first and wait to fertilize?
Posted on 5/23/20 at 10:02 pm to Azazello
Have you had a soil test or have a disease issue? If not I wouldn’t do peat moss. If you have thatch I’d aerate. Thatch is just the build up of organic matter and not caused by disease
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