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Message
Looking for a gunsmith
Posted on 3/4/19 at 7:21 pm
Posted on 3/4/19 at 7:21 pm
I have an older browning a-bolt that doesn’t group very well. I would like to possibly get a new barrel and some trigger work done. Trying to decide if I should send it to get a semi-custom package put on it. Anyone ever done anything like this?
Posted on 3/4/19 at 7:28 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Probably better off getting into a different gun rather than sinking money into it and possibly not getting better results.
Posted on 3/4/19 at 7:44 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Waste of money imo. Just get a new gun.
Posted on 3/4/19 at 8:02 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Butler accuracy in woodworth . 318 448 0414
Posted on 3/4/19 at 8:12 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Yup, had a Smith & Wesson 1500 (Howa) action re-barreled last year and it's shooting less than .500 MOA now. I harvested an Antelope at 285 yards and it shot exactly where I wanted it to.
Before you send it out for a barrel make sure it's floated properly and bedded correctly.
Before you send it out for a barrel make sure it's floated properly and bedded correctly.
Posted on 3/4/19 at 8:20 pm to Barneyrb
It would be cheaper to buy a new gun that have this one upgraded, but I have always wanted to try to have one built out.
Where did you send it to? That’s exactly what I am looking for.
Where did you send it to? That’s exactly what I am looking for.
Posted on 3/4/19 at 8:31 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Posted on 3/4/19 at 10:40 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
A guy I hunt with had a problem with his A-Bolt that wasn't grouping well, had a smith look at it and it was just a loose screw. Might not be your problem, but before you go changing things you might not need to have someone look at it, especially if it hasn't always been inaccurate.
Posted on 3/4/19 at 11:00 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
quote:
I have an older browning a-bolt that doesn’t group very well.
What kind of groups are you currently getting?
What kind of rings, scope base, scope and ammo are you using?
Has it previously shot good or always shot badly?
If you're inclined to a little DIY project, these are the things I look at when one of my guns "misbehaves." There are a lot of things you can probably do yourself before having to buy a new barrel or a new gun.
You're going to have to work through a stepwise process to figure it out. The most common culprits are a high point in the stock creating pressure on the barrel, a problem w/ the scope, a problem w/ the rings/base or a problem w/ the action screws. Erratic shots sound more like a problem w/ the scope, ring, mounts or action screws. If there's a problem w/ a pressure point, the shots will gradually move in the direction AWAY from the pressure point as the barrel heats up. The following is my approach to a problem gun. Carry out the steps in whatever order you're most comfortable.
1. Rule out a problem w/ the scope by changing to a scope you already know to be RELIABLE.
2. Remount the base, using BLUE Loc-Tite (NOT red). I always use the $10 Weaver bases, even on my prairie dog handguns. Easy, and cheap enough, to try your rifle w/ a Weaver base. Before installing the scope base w/ Loc-Tite, individually check the length of each screw. Put the base in place, then screw in a screw into the intended hole. If the screw is too long, cut off the excess w/ a Dremel tool or get a new screw. The screw should have a minimum of 3 threads for it to have adequate strength. If it's too short, it will need to be replaced. Repeat this step w/ each screw in a different hole.
3. Remount the rings. I don't use Loc-Tite on the rings. Be sure the screws attaching the upper/lower rings are equally tightened. If the rings have not been lapped, do so. If you don't have the equipment to lap them or don't feel comfortable doing it, change the rings to Burris Signature Z-Rings (the ones w/ plastic inserts).
4. Check for any high spots in the barrel channel or action part of the stock.
5. I'm not sure if Browning does, or doesn't, use a pressure point in the barrel channel. If there is a pressure point, the barrel should be free floated from the pressure point to just in front of the action; if not, make it so. If it still doesn't shoot well, free float the pressure point at the forend of the stock. If needed, you can always recreate a pressure point on the barrel at the front tip of your stock by putting 1-2 business cards at the very front of the stock in the barrel channel. You can Google all this or look on YouTube.
6. Check the action screws as mentioned above.
7. Use a torque wrench (and follows it's recs) to adjust the mount, rings and action screws. Some gun actions respond better to torquing the action screws in a particular order. I don't know about the Browning action, but you can Google it.
8. Try different ammo. Sometimes a gun barrel needs more than 3-4 shots w/ a particular load before it starts shooting that load well.
9. I don't worry to awfully much about letting a barrel cool down entirely between shots. A well bedded gun should be reasonably accurate even w/ a hot barrel. When I go on prairie dog hunts, it's not unusual to shoot 100-200 shots/day. I can promise you my barrels will get hot, but the guns will still be VERY accurate.
10. Be sure the crown is not damaged.
11. Be sure the gun is clean, but use the proper equipment, i.e. a one piece steel rod (appropriate caliber) w/ a good bore guide. More gun barrels are ruined by poor cleaning technique than by being dirty.
12. Try different ammo. Each gun is different as to what ammo it likes. When Hornady first came out w/ the SST bullet, I worked up a load w/ it for my 270. I couldn't hardly keep the shots on a notebook sized sheet of paper. The gun shot Hornady regular spire point bullets just fine, but didn't like the SST.
Keep us updated.
Posted on 3/5/19 at 12:01 am to Das_Wanda_kid
Jonathan Reulet in Goodbee. He did great work for me
Posted on 3/5/19 at 12:05 am to Das_Wanda_kid
1. Check crown and action screws
2. Check to make sure barrel is free floating
3. Check glass and mounts
4. If these don't do it then I'd send it down the road unless it has sentimental value to you. Browning is known for good hunting accuracy but not necessarily being super accurate. There is a difference. Before I got too upside down in a rifle that may or may not be as accurate as I want after the work, I'd go find me a Tikka or Bergara that I know will be accurate and it'll be cheaper than the rebarrel job more than likely
2. Check to make sure barrel is free floating
3. Check glass and mounts
4. If these don't do it then I'd send it down the road unless it has sentimental value to you. Browning is known for good hunting accuracy but not necessarily being super accurate. There is a difference. Before I got too upside down in a rifle that may or may not be as accurate as I want after the work, I'd go find me a Tikka or Bergara that I know will be accurate and it'll be cheaper than the rebarrel job more than likely
Posted on 3/5/19 at 7:24 am to Tigre85
quote:
Butler accuracy in woodworth . 318 448 0414
2nd this, known Mr. Tommy for a long time. Does great work.
Posted on 3/5/19 at 11:17 am to Das_Wanda_kid
If after doing what Tiger On The Hill suggested you still need a smith and you're in the Baton Rouge area.... Eduard Chahin 225-751-5296.
Posted on 3/5/19 at 1:05 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
I sent mine to Pac Nor. They installed the barrel, trued the action, and basically returned a custom gun.
This post was edited on 3/6/19 at 7:04 am
Posted on 3/5/19 at 1:17 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Do you reload your own ammo ? Reloading can fine tune accuracy and possibly turn your rifle into a 1/2” group shooting gun.
I’ve built and owned close to 50 custom rifles and consulted on hundreds of custom builds. Here’s the skinny on the Browning A-Bolt. The barrel is epoxy glued into metric action threads. Removing the barrel is a serious PIA as Browning does not want the barrel removed. The action is hexagonal and requires specialized tools or action wrench to remove/install the barrel. There are very few aftermarket parts (triggers , stocks) to customize the A-Bolt. Very few GS’s will even re-barrel an A-Bolt due to items mentioned above.
A custom select match grade S.S. barrel will cost you $350, and the GS will charge you $250-300 to fit, chamber, and crown barrel. Add-on’s such as a Muzzle brake, fluting, cerakote will cost you more $$$.
A new barreled rifle will only be as accurate as the foundation it sits on. Pillar and glass bedding the barreled-action to the stock will cost around $250
I agree with others, sell the A-bolt and buy a quality factory rifle that is chambered in a cartridge that is inherently accurate
I’ve built and owned close to 50 custom rifles and consulted on hundreds of custom builds. Here’s the skinny on the Browning A-Bolt. The barrel is epoxy glued into metric action threads. Removing the barrel is a serious PIA as Browning does not want the barrel removed. The action is hexagonal and requires specialized tools or action wrench to remove/install the barrel. There are very few aftermarket parts (triggers , stocks) to customize the A-Bolt. Very few GS’s will even re-barrel an A-Bolt due to items mentioned above.
A custom select match grade S.S. barrel will cost you $350, and the GS will charge you $250-300 to fit, chamber, and crown barrel. Add-on’s such as a Muzzle brake, fluting, cerakote will cost you more $$$.
A new barreled rifle will only be as accurate as the foundation it sits on. Pillar and glass bedding the barreled-action to the stock will cost around $250
I agree with others, sell the A-bolt and buy a quality factory rifle that is chambered in a cartridge that is inherently accurate
Posted on 3/5/19 at 4:59 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Contact folks at Hill Country Rifles in New Braunfels, TX. They do an accurizing package that may work for you w/o re-barreling. Have done several and they are outstanding. As for a local gunsmith, Tommy Butler in Woodworth is very good.
Posted on 3/5/19 at 9:03 pm to TigerOnThe Hill
I haven’t shot this gun in the regular since the 90’s. Honestly, I was a late high school and college kid and didn’t pay much attention to grouping.
The gun is shooting around 2”. I was getting closer to 3” before I started playing with different ammo. Leupold on the mount and bases. Zeiss Conquest V4 on the scope that previously shot well on another rifle. Blue loctite is on there. Gun is very clean. Cleaned all copper out the barrel also.
I checked the float, all good. I checked the barrel for burrs, all good. I checked all screws and the bolt, nothing I can see.
I will try to remount the scope and work steps 5 and 7. Any idea how I check the bedding? What do I look for?
Thanks for the tips.
The gun is shooting around 2”. I was getting closer to 3” before I started playing with different ammo. Leupold on the mount and bases. Zeiss Conquest V4 on the scope that previously shot well on another rifle. Blue loctite is on there. Gun is very clean. Cleaned all copper out the barrel also.
I checked the float, all good. I checked the barrel for burrs, all good. I checked all screws and the bolt, nothing I can see.
I will try to remount the scope and work steps 5 and 7. Any idea how I check the bedding? What do I look for?
Thanks for the tips.
Posted on 3/5/19 at 9:09 pm to Got Blaze
Thanks for the info. Very helpful
Posted on 3/5/19 at 11:42 pm to Das_Wanda_kid
Sounds like you've already done a pretty good evaluation. I've never had a Browning A Bolt and have only shot one. That was 25 years ago and it shot well. This article gives instructions on glass bedding a rifle action, but also has some tips that would apply to evaluating the action/stock. If you want to further channel your inner "do it yourself" you can also bed the rifle action. The last Remington XP-100 I bought had been bedded using Devcon. You can find a bunch of articles and videos on the 'net that deal w/ bedding an action.
If the gun still shoots only 2" groups at 100 yards despite the steps you've already taken, you're probably getting close to having to make final decision about it.
If the gun still shoots only 2" groups at 100 yards despite the steps you've already taken, you're probably getting close to having to make final decision about it.
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