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Started By
Message
Woodworking guys/ carpenters,I have a question about beetle pine siding
Posted on 10/30/18 at 9:50 am
Posted on 10/30/18 at 9:50 am
Going to use beetle pine siding on a building that I need to look really good.
Going to do it in a board and bat configuration.
The lumber already has the grey patina, but I am also going to sand it a bit and put a medium cherry stain on it. Before I do that though, I was wondering if there was anything I could do to really bring out the grain in the wood?
If it was fresh cut, I would take a rosebud torch and scorch all of it a bit. I like the way that looks, but I don't know if it will give the same results on this lumber.
Thanx for any help.
Going to do it in a board and bat configuration.
The lumber already has the grey patina, but I am also going to sand it a bit and put a medium cherry stain on it. Before I do that though, I was wondering if there was anything I could do to really bring out the grain in the wood?
If it was fresh cut, I would take a rosebud torch and scorch all of it a bit. I like the way that looks, but I don't know if it will give the same results on this lumber.
Thanx for any help.
This post was edited on 10/30/18 at 9:51 am
Posted on 10/30/18 at 9:58 am to auggie
Make sure you use an exterior grade stain on it and not some Minwax crap. Minwax is strictly for interior wood, and it fades with the quickness if used outside.
Posted on 10/30/18 at 10:05 am to BasilFawlty
Yep, going to do it right.
What I am actually going to try, is to make it look like a cherry sunburst guitar. Dark stain on the edges fading to light towards the center.
ETA; of course this will look a bit different, since the lumber already has the grey patina. I think it can still look great though, maybe even better.
What I am actually going to try, is to make it look like a cherry sunburst guitar. Dark stain on the edges fading to light towards the center.
ETA; of course this will look a bit different, since the lumber already has the grey patina. I think it can still look great though, maybe even better.
This post was edited on 10/30/18 at 10:33 am
Posted on 10/31/18 at 6:11 am to auggie
Bumping my own thread, would really like some ideas on this.
Posted on 10/31/18 at 8:47 am to auggie
I would try some different' techniques and see how they work. Hopefully you have some extra material that you can use as tests. Sorry I know not very helpful.
This is more of a bump so Fish will see it and maybe have some input.
This is more of a bump so Fish will see it and maybe have some input.
Posted on 10/31/18 at 8:53 am to Chuker
Thanks man, I do intend to try some different things first on some extra pieces, and see what I like best.
Just hoping for some other ideas from people with more knowledge than me, on the things that I should try.
I want this to look really nice, it's for My Wife's Mom.
Just hoping for some other ideas from people with more knowledge than me, on the things that I should try.
I want this to look really nice, it's for My Wife's Mom.
This post was edited on 10/31/18 at 9:05 am
Posted on 10/31/18 at 9:32 am to auggie
How thick is this siding you plan to use? If thick enough, why not just run it through a thickness planer to get all the patina off and start with a fresh face if that is what you'd prefer to do.
You can take as little as 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch off and get to fresh wood unless it's cupped in spots.
ETA: If this is old, used siding, invest in a hand held metal detector to make sure all nails, staples, etc. are out of the wood it you go that route. A single small nail will nick every plane blade if not removed, and every board you plane after that happens will have a small raised ridge on it.
You can take as little as 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch off and get to fresh wood unless it's cupped in spots.
ETA: If this is old, used siding, invest in a hand held metal detector to make sure all nails, staples, etc. are out of the wood it you go that route. A single small nail will nick every plane blade if not removed, and every board you plane after that happens will have a small raised ridge on it.
This post was edited on 10/31/18 at 9:36 am
Posted on 10/31/18 at 9:37 am to gumbo2176
It's 1 inch thick. A planer would be great, but I don't have one.
Can you rent a planer?
This is new siding, it's just been a while since it went through the sawmill.
Can you rent a planer?
This is new siding, it's just been a while since it went through the sawmill.
This post was edited on 10/31/18 at 9:40 am
Posted on 10/31/18 at 10:51 am to auggie
I'm not sure, but I would think rental would be available. At 1 inch thick, that is plenty thick enough to remove just a little to get down to a clean surface, plus it will remove any high spots or rough areas if the wood was just sitting out for a while gathering that gray patina.
Pick the best side and run that through for a nice smooth face. Just be aware of which way the grain is running on some boards to prevent checking. Always run with the grain when possible. If you're not sure what this means, I'm sure there's a few u-tube videos out there to show you.
Pick the best side and run that through for a nice smooth face. Just be aware of which way the grain is running on some boards to prevent checking. Always run with the grain when possible. If you're not sure what this means, I'm sure there's a few u-tube videos out there to show you.
Posted on 10/31/18 at 10:55 am to auggie
If the goal is to see more grain, you will have to take off some of the aged wood. Planer would be best or could play with low grit sandpaper depending on the look you are going for.
Would also recommend a few coats of shellac. They make few different shades and you could experiment with them until you get what your looking for - will make for a more uniform finished product.
Would also recommend a few coats of shellac. They make few different shades and you could experiment with them until you get what your looking for - will make for a more uniform finished product.
Posted on 10/31/18 at 10:59 am to Fat Tire
quote:
Would also recommend a few coats of shellac. They make few different shades and you could experiment with them until you get what your looking for - will make for a more uniform finished product.
I second the shellac idea, especially if going to stain and wanting it to look uniform. Soft woods like pine and cypress take stain very irregular between soft and hard grain being in the same piece of wood.
The only thing I would recommend is to make what is called a "Piss Coat" of shellac by mixing 2 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part shellac. This goes on easy, dries fast, and if you are anal enough to sand it down, it will come out smooth as glass and ready for the final finish to go on.
I do this to all my cypress projects that people want stained and with excellent results.
Posted on 10/31/18 at 1:24 pm to auggie
You are getting some recommendations for shellac on the wood, which is fine if it's on the interior.
Shellac is great...fast dry, no sanding between coats because it rewets itself, can be tinted with universal tints for different tones.
That said, I wouldn't recommend shellac on exterior wood. It's brittle and prolonged exposure to water/humidity will make it cloudy. Not to mention that it's a good vapor barrier, meaning that moisture doesn't pass thru the surface easily. That can cause problems outside (it's one of the reasons exterior oil paints and varnishes peel over time).
Shellac is great...fast dry, no sanding between coats because it rewets itself, can be tinted with universal tints for different tones.
That said, I wouldn't recommend shellac on exterior wood. It's brittle and prolonged exposure to water/humidity will make it cloudy. Not to mention that it's a good vapor barrier, meaning that moisture doesn't pass thru the surface easily. That can cause problems outside (it's one of the reasons exterior oil paints and varnishes peel over time).
This post was edited on 10/31/18 at 1:28 pm
Posted on 11/1/18 at 6:43 am to BasilFawlty
quote:
You are getting some recommendations for shellac on the wood, which is fine if it's on the interior. Shellac is great...fast dry, no sanding between coats because it rewets itself, can be tinted with universal tints for different tones. That said, I wouldn't recommend shellac on exterior wood. It's brittle and prolonged exposure to water/humidity will make it cloudy. Not to mention that it's a good vapor barrier, meaning that moisture doesn't pass thru the surface easily. That can cause problems outside (it's one of the reasons exterior oil paints and varnishes peel over time).
This for sure.
OP, is the lumber rough sawed? If it is, I would just hang it like that. Problem is, Sun. Trying to sand a bunch will beat you to death. How wide are the boards?
Posted on 11/2/18 at 6:11 am to fishfighter
Sorry for not getting back until now. I was pretty busy yesterday.
The lumber is rough sawed, but I made a deal yesterday for an almost new Rigid brand planer.
I think I am going to run it all through the planer, then use the torch to get that look that I want. LINK
will have to scroll down a little on the link.
Maybe try scorching the bottom and top 4" of the siding pretty dark, and the corner pieces, a 4 inch streak the full length, then going over that with cherry stain and about 2 inches further. Then seal the hell out of it.
Does this sound doable?
The lumber is rough sawed, but I made a deal yesterday for an almost new Rigid brand planer.
I think I am going to run it all through the planer, then use the torch to get that look that I want. LINK
will have to scroll down a little on the link.
Maybe try scorching the bottom and top 4" of the siding pretty dark, and the corner pieces, a 4 inch streak the full length, then going over that with cherry stain and about 2 inches further. Then seal the hell out of it.
Does this sound doable?
This post was edited on 11/2/18 at 6:26 am
Posted on 11/2/18 at 6:34 am to auggie
The finish you want to use is called Rubio Monocoat. Google it. Only one coat and bonds to the wood molecules, it does not form a film.
Posted on 11/2/18 at 8:41 am to mikie421
quote:
The finish you want to use is called Rubio Monocoat. Google it. Only one coat and bonds to the wood molecules, it does not form a film.
This. The Japs has used this in their builds. It brings the sap out to the surface, making the wood harder. You can buy a torch from Harbor Freight that hooks up to 5 gallon tanks.
I would just for go planning out the boards and just burn them and then brush them good. Always brush with the grain of the wood, never across.
Posted on 11/4/18 at 6:50 pm to fishfighter
Talked to the man that owns the sawmill. He's going to cut me some fresh boards 12inches wide x 3/4 thick.
I really can't believe how affordable this is going to be.
Enough siding to do the entire building is going to be less than 800 bucks, and I think it's going to look great.
I am only going to do the finishing on 2 sides that will be seen, The other 2 sides just going to seal them good.
Thanks for all the advice folks. Will find a way to post some photos after it's finished. That will probably be a few weeks out.
ETAsk : once I apply the Rubio monocoat, would I be done? I would need to apply some sealer for outdoors right? Or is the burning also going to help with that?
I really can't believe how affordable this is going to be.
Enough siding to do the entire building is going to be less than 800 bucks, and I think it's going to look great.
I am only going to do the finishing on 2 sides that will be seen, The other 2 sides just going to seal them good.
Thanks for all the advice folks. Will find a way to post some photos after it's finished. That will probably be a few weeks out.
ETAsk : once I apply the Rubio monocoat, would I be done? I would need to apply some sealer for outdoors right? Or is the burning also going to help with that?
This post was edited on 11/4/18 at 7:11 pm
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