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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 5/13/20 at 10:40 pm to BugAC
Posted on 5/13/20 at 10:40 pm to BugAC
I have an ounce of summit on hand that will be a good sub for columbus, but for the other hop additions in your recipe (whirlpool, bio) I am just going to be using sabro. Do I need to do a one to one sub? Meaning instead of using and oz of two types for whirlpool, I need two oz of sabro in whirlpool. Similarly for biotrans do I want 6oz sabro or 4? I'm not kegging so I just omit that right?
My lhbs also doesn't have malted oats, so the substitute is one to one for flaked correct?
My lhbs also doesn't have malted oats, so the substitute is one to one for flaked correct?
Posted on 5/14/20 at 9:31 am to puffulufogous
I made a single hop APA with just Sabro, so I could get an idea of how I'd want to use the rest of it. I found it lacked a real citrus aroma that I find in alot of modern american hoppy beers, and that I personally like. I definitely got some of the coconut aroma, and maybe a tad of the mint aroma I had heard about, but really I just thought it created a smooth, and relatively mild hop flavor and aroma. Its definitely a unique hop. I enjoyed the beer, but when I use it again it will probably be in an NEIPA alongside another, more citrus forward, hop.
I'll add the disclaimer, that I have heard others getting a stronger hop aroma and flavor in Sabro than I did. So, I actually changed my dry-hopping method for the latest beer that I put on tap which is a single hop El Dorado APA. I bought one of those hop mesh filters that Bug mentioned, and put it in my serving keg to leave in there.
So right now, I have on tap my El Dorado APA which should be done carbing this weekend, and my peach berliner. I have a couple questions:
- My peach berliner has a yeasty smell to it. I really like how it turned out otherwise. Anyone know what this could be attributed to? I figured it would fade away as yeast sediment fell to the bottom of the keg and went out the first few pours, but its lingering around.
- I harvested yeast for the first time from my El Dorado APA. Wyeast 1056... How long will this keep for in a mason jar in the fridge? I wasn't planning on using this yeast for my next 2 planned brews, but if its going to go bad then I guess I can change up my plans.
I'll add the disclaimer, that I have heard others getting a stronger hop aroma and flavor in Sabro than I did. So, I actually changed my dry-hopping method for the latest beer that I put on tap which is a single hop El Dorado APA. I bought one of those hop mesh filters that Bug mentioned, and put it in my serving keg to leave in there.
So right now, I have on tap my El Dorado APA which should be done carbing this weekend, and my peach berliner. I have a couple questions:
- My peach berliner has a yeasty smell to it. I really like how it turned out otherwise. Anyone know what this could be attributed to? I figured it would fade away as yeast sediment fell to the bottom of the keg and went out the first few pours, but its lingering around.
- I harvested yeast for the first time from my El Dorado APA. Wyeast 1056... How long will this keep for in a mason jar in the fridge? I wasn't planning on using this yeast for my next 2 planned brews, but if its going to go bad then I guess I can change up my plans.
Posted on 5/14/20 at 9:31 am to puffulufogous
quote:
Meaning instead of using and oz of two types for whirlpool, I need two oz of sabro in whirlpool.
I would. But it's up to you.
quote:
Similarly for biotrans do I want 6oz sabro or 4?
That's up to you. I've read in the "new ipa" book by Janish that you should limit your hop additions to no more than 3-4 oz. at a time, because you start losing utilization rates. However, after listening to the brulosophy podcast and trying their method, i just added all of my planned dry hop additions (usually a bio trans, then 2 dry hop additions) at the biotrans stage. Made sense that the risk of oxidation when opening up your fermenter to dry hop was greater than the loss of any hop utilization. So i shifted all my hops except for about 2-4 oz. to the biotrans stage, and then keg hopped with the remaining. I'll typically purge the keg, open it up, throw in the keg hops, purge again, then transfer.
quote:
I'm not kegging so I just omit that right?
You can, or add it to your dry hop schedule. Something i will add, the key to a good NEIPA is limiting oxygen intake. Nothing is worse than an oxidized IPA. The color and flavor is affected. So if you are bottling, just know that you will likely take in some oxygen, especially if you are using a bottling bucket. I'm not saying this to steer you away from an NEIPA, but your beer may not hold up nearly as well, as if you were kegging.
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