- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Coaching Changes
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
*Update* F150 battery dying overnight
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:23 pm
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:23 pm
Replaced a batt in my 2011 F150 last thursday. Truck wouldnt start, had to jump it off several times. Thinking it was just age on the battery, I went and bought a brand new one. Left friday and came back today and its deader than shite. Nothing works. I connected battery charger and as soon as I did that, the hazard lights started blinking uncontrollably. They would not shut off. No lights were left on while I was gone and I have no idea where im losing power. Truck is bone stock, no aftermarker bs. Anybody ever had this happen or an idea of what it could be??
This post was edited on 5/21/15 at 12:21 pm
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:26 pm to sonoma8
Good luck. Electrical gremlins are a birch to track down and $$$
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:30 pm to sonoma8
Unplug your glove compartment light bulb. Some vehicles glove departments do not close appropriately to toggle off the light and it will drain a battery like you wouldn't believe. I haven't heard too many problems in ford's but this used to be a problem in Mercury's which of course might as well be Ford
You'd be surprised at how quick a little light bulb like that could drain a battery
Let me know if this works
You'd be surprised at how quick a little light bulb like that could drain a battery
Let me know if this works
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:31 pm to fed1811
Thanks, ill go check that out and see.
ETA: No light in glove box. Thought that it was just a bad connection since it started up 3x after being on charger less than 2min. 30 min later, dead again.
ETA: No light in glove box. Thought that it was just a bad connection since it started up 3x after being on charger less than 2min. 30 min later, dead again.
This post was edited on 5/10/15 at 8:40 pm
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:31 pm to shawnlsu
I had a similar problem with my Silverado and after two months of local shops not being able to find the problem I traded in the truck. Good luck finding the issue they can be a pain in the arse to find.
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:36 pm to Buga_Scores
Have the same with mine, but it is a combo of my amp not shutting off and the ECM not letting something turn off. My battery will die if it sits for 15 hours.
Reminds me that I need to go start it now
Reminds me that I need to go start it now
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:43 pm to Hammertime
Read somewhere that it could be a wiring issue in the steering column that doesnt let the truck know to kill power to everything when it is put in park and turned off. I can see this is going to be a fricking load of fun!!
Posted on 5/10/15 at 8:54 pm to fed1811
Dam I didn't realize Ford stopped putting lights in there. Did you install an amp or speakers in it? They could have been wired wrong and are pulling juice when the trucks off. Could also be a faulty alternator
It'll be a pain in the arse but a tell tale way to find out what it is get a multimeter and unhook the positive battery and hook the meter to the bat. Should be low amps, roughly 35 miliamps max. If it's higher pop open the fuse box and start pulling them out until the amps dip down to that amount and that'll be what's draining you
The quick fix is to get a relay put in to not power anything in the truck until you have a key in the ignition but then you wouldn't have interior lights or radio or anything unless the truck was on
It'll be a pain in the arse but a tell tale way to find out what it is get a multimeter and unhook the positive battery and hook the meter to the bat. Should be low amps, roughly 35 miliamps max. If it's higher pop open the fuse box and start pulling them out until the amps dip down to that amount and that'll be what's draining you
The quick fix is to get a relay put in to not power anything in the truck until you have a key in the ignition but then you wouldn't have interior lights or radio or anything unless the truck was on
Posted on 5/10/15 at 9:25 pm to sonoma8
Supposed to be very common on 2500hd trucks
Posted on 5/10/15 at 9:30 pm to sonoma8
first off, I have seen a suprising number of brand new batteries that are bad...I'd charge it up and then go somewhere to get a load test put on it first thing...
also, be damn sure there is not a cab light or something like that staying on....
also, are you sure your battery is really dead and that it is not a starter problem or something like that?....
also, be damn sure there is not a cab light or something like that staying on....
also, are you sure your battery is really dead and that it is not a starter problem or something like that?....
Posted on 5/11/15 at 6:23 am to Spankum
Put it on a trickle charge overnight. Def not the starter bc my doors wont even unlock when I use the remote and no lights were left on. Checked that out in complete darkness lastnight.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 7:34 am to sonoma8
I had the same thing happen to my 2000 F150. The GEM (General Electronic Module) that controls a LOT of stuff in the cab had shorted out due to a leak in the windshield. As a result at random times the 4x4 light would illuminate (but the truck wasn't nor went into 4WD mode...light would just illuminate. Battery would drain after sitting overnight.
The leak would run down the a-pillar and into the fuse box area the GEM is mounted behind the fuse box. It's a bitch to change. If it's the GEM on your 2011 you may have to get it programmed at a stealership.
The leak would run down the a-pillar and into the fuse box area the GEM is mounted behind the fuse box. It's a bitch to change. If it's the GEM on your 2011 you may have to get it programmed at a stealership.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 8:04 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
How much that set you back? Just checked, cranking amps are fine so its not battery. Def a leak somewhere. Let the fun begin
Posted on 5/11/15 at 8:12 am to sonoma8
have you load tested the battery? A simple multi meter will not do the trick.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 8:14 am to meauxjeaux2
Yea just did that at autozone
Posted on 5/11/15 at 8:37 am to sonoma8
are you handy with a multimeter? If so you can hook it up to your battery and pull each fuse until you find out which one is drawing the power.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 8:57 am to sonoma8
quote:
it started up 3x after being on charger less than 2min. 30 min later, dead again
This doesn't sound right. Are you sure the battery is actually dead? Or are you just assuming it is dead because nothing is working?
I'm willing to bet you're not losing voltage.
quote:
Yea just did that at autozone
I bet the battery tested normal, right? Are you 100% positive you didn't lose a ground or have a corroded terminal?
This post was edited on 5/11/15 at 9:00 am
Posted on 5/11/15 at 9:05 am to Hammertime
quote:
Have the same with mine, but it is a combo of my amp not shutting off and the ECM not letting something turn off. My battery will die if it sits for 15 hours.
Why is your remote turn on for the amp not wired into a switched 12v? Also, the ECM/PCM/ECM do not operate this way. They keep a live memory but everything with enough amp draw to drain a battery is switched.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 9:34 am to Barf
It is wired to the remote output on my deck. I have another amp wired to the same wire, but that one shuts off. It'll shut off sometimes, but 90% of the time won't. If I jump the REM and - on the amp, nothing happens, but if I jump it on a multimeter, it always shuts off. Odd
From what I've read online, replacing the ECM fixes the other problem
From what I've read online, replacing the ECM fixes the other problem
Back to top

12





