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Started By
Message
Update: It's working! Rebuilt Husqvarna 55 Rancher
Posted on 5/4/15 at 11:28 am
Posted on 5/4/15 at 11:28 am
Using my dads chainsaw yesterday and it started smoking and seized up. Starting rope won't budge. Its a husqvarna 55 rancher that is about 15 years old. He said he's always ran 40-1 but for what ever reason he put in 50-1 yesterday.
I haven't tore it down yet to see the damage but I'm guessing a whole new top end
including the cylinder. OEM is $228 for the cylinder and $90 for the piston and rings. Obviously that isn't worth it for such an old chainsaw but I've found Chinese made
cylinder and pistons for $35-45 bucks.
Update:
Got it running like a champ now! Used an NWP piston and cylinder kit. Was recommended on arborist sites. That was about $110. Also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and fuel line. Cleaned it up really good too. I would recommend that, it was really caked up with sawdust all on the inside.
I haven't tore it down yet to see the damage but I'm guessing a whole new top end
including the cylinder. OEM is $228 for the cylinder and $90 for the piston and rings. Obviously that isn't worth it for such an old chainsaw but I've found Chinese made
cylinder and pistons for $35-45 bucks.
Update:
Got it running like a champ now! Used an NWP piston and cylinder kit. Was recommended on arborist sites. That was about $110. Also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and fuel line. Cleaned it up really good too. I would recommend that, it was really caked up with sawdust all on the inside.
This post was edited on 5/26/15 at 9:54 am
Posted on 5/4/15 at 11:38 am to Yammie250F
Buy OEM parts or buy a new saw. Not worth cutting corners on something like that.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 11:53 am to Yammie250F
For $35-$45, it can't hurt to try it out. If it doesn't work, you're only out $50.
Personally, I would just trash it and go buy a new saw. But $50 isn't a huge sum if you want to try and fix it.
Personally, I would just trash it and go buy a new saw. But $50 isn't a huge sum if you want to try and fix it.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 12:01 pm to DownSouthDave
Those older saws are quite a bit better than what's made today. I have an old 025 Stihl and I wouldn't want to replace it with a new MS250. Fresh rebuild of that Husky and have a saw that will last for that much in parts isn't a bad deal at all.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 12:09 pm to Clames
quote:
Those older saws are quite a bit better than what's made today. I have an old 025 Stihl and I wouldn't want to replace it with a new MS250. Fresh rebuild of that Husky and have a saw that will last for that much in parts isn't a bad deal at all.
This is what I've heard too, going to go the Chinese parts route and see how it holds up. Hopefully the crank is still good.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 12:28 pm to Yammie250F
My dad had the same saw and the coil/cdi went out. He bought a new saw and gave the old one to me. I got a Chinese coil for $15 and its rin fine ever since
Posted on 5/4/15 at 12:58 pm to Yammie250F
For $45 it's definitely worth trying. If it doesn't work you're only out a little bit.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 1:15 pm to Yammie250F
You never know with the Chinese parts. They could be mildly incorrect and end up breaking within a couple of uses, or they could be perfectly fine.
Is it Amazon?
Is it Amazon?
Posted on 5/4/15 at 2:03 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Is it Amazon?
Yes, that was from Amazon.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 2:23 pm to Yammie250F
Keep old saw, buy OEM parts.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 3:29 pm to Yammie250F
Install them, run it, if it doesn't work, send it back
Posted on 5/4/15 at 3:45 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Install them, run it, if it doesn't work, send it back
What if those Chinese parts fail in the near future? Why risk it?
Did you ever fix that 4 wheeler?
Posted on 5/4/15 at 4:21 pm to Yammie250F
I'd pay $350 to fix the 15 yr old 455 Rancher rather than buy a new one. That saw is made so much better than todays equipment its not even close!!
Posted on 5/4/15 at 4:42 pm to Sparkplug#1
quote:
Did you ever fix that 4 wheeler?
I did but that was a few years ago so you might have me mixed up with someone else.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 4:46 pm to Yammie250F
Sorry, I hijacked for a second. I was asking hanmertime.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 5:28 pm to Sparkplug#1
Got it running and idling perfectly. The new carb is in. New rings in. Adjusted valves to spec. Not smoking or burning oil.
The fricker is still knocking from the top end (via stethoscope). It isn't bad, but it is aggravating. I am thinking it is just piston slap. I have exams this week, so it is on the back burner. I just need to find a machine shop to bore it and put a new piston/rings in it.
The fricker is still knocking from the top end (via stethoscope). It isn't bad, but it is aggravating. I am thinking it is just piston slap. I have exams this week, so it is on the back burner. I just need to find a machine shop to bore it and put a new piston/rings in it.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 6:38 pm to Hammertime
Can't get the damn cylinder off the piston. Only the bottom quarter of the piston is showing but it won't budge.
What can I do to get it off.
What can I do to get it off.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 6:46 pm to Yammie250F
It's melted in place. Trot line weight now.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 6:52 pm to fishfighter
Going to research trot line weight and maybe try tomorrow. Thanks
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