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Green reading
Posted on 7/5/24 at 11:13 pm
Posted on 7/5/24 at 11:13 pm
I struggle to read greens, and realized lately how off I am. I’ll have others read it after I do and it’s completely the opposite of what I thought. Anyone got any recommendations or tips? It’s like I just can’t see straight or something.
Posted on 7/5/24 at 11:47 pm to lsu wings
For me, walking up to the green is the most important in understanding slope. Look for which direction water will drain from the green. Most greens will flow towards a pond, lake or other body of water. Obviously, watch your playing partner putt to get an idea. I watch even if our lines are not similar. When on the practice putting green, practice uphill, downhill, level and putts you have no idea how it will break. Start familiarizing yourself with the type of grass your putting on (Bent, Bermuda, Poa). The ball roll and break are influenced by the breed of grass. Hope this helps!
This post was edited on 7/5/24 at 11:56 pm
Posted on 7/6/24 at 4:54 am to lsu wings
Read the putt from both angles (from the high side and low side) but trust the low side. When you walk from the high side to the low side and back, walk so that you make s full circle around the hole so you can see the slope from each side. If you don't know, learn how to be aware which way the grain goes and understand the ball will move less into the grain and more with the grain. When in doubt, play less break. Putts will almost always break towards the water. Lastly, always make sure you have on both shoes.


Posted on 7/6/24 at 6:00 am to lsu wings
As others have said, most greens are designed for water to flow off of them.
They usually are designed for water NOT to flow into bunkers.
Grass will usually grow downhill or to sun. Greens surrounded by tall trees can have mismatches between grain and slope. Usually slope wins.
Look at the cup or for old cups on your line. The rough edge is away from you down grain, and into you if into the grain.
On sunny days, down grain is shiny, into grain is darker.
If you see multiple conflicting things, aim at the hole and try to get the speed correct.
They usually are designed for water NOT to flow into bunkers.
Grass will usually grow downhill or to sun. Greens surrounded by tall trees can have mismatches between grain and slope. Usually slope wins.
Look at the cup or for old cups on your line. The rough edge is away from you down grain, and into you if into the grain.
On sunny days, down grain is shiny, into grain is darker.
If you see multiple conflicting things, aim at the hole and try to get the speed correct.
Posted on 7/6/24 at 7:05 am to lsu wings
Have you tried plumb bobbing? It's an older form of the new aim point. Stand 6-10 feet behind your ball and directly in line with the cup. Hold your putter by the handle and hold it out in front above your head. If the shaft is in line with the cup, it's a straight putt, if the cup is to the right of the shaft, it's a left to right putt and if it's to the left of the shaft, it's a a right to let putt. Now this won't work on extremely long putts or extreme double breakers but it will definitely help in the short to mid length putts. Also, if your not playing in a sanctioned tournament, you can scrape the grass on the green with the face of your putter to see which way the grain is running, if it catches and doesn't slide, that's the direction the grain is going and it will have a tendency to make the ball roll more in that direction, not massive amounts but a little more.
The plumb bob is old school and not many people use it anymore, I do and I find it very helpful and it doesn't take as long as aim point although I'm not a pro and not fighting for the next place on the leaderboard but I do have an 8.8 handicap and am a descent player and it helps me get it close.
The plumb bob is old school and not many people use it anymore, I do and I find it very helpful and it doesn't take as long as aim point although I'm not a pro and not fighting for the next place on the leaderboard but I do have an 8.8 handicap and am a descent player and it helps me get it close.
Posted on 7/6/24 at 8:46 am to lsu wings
whatever you do don't take green reading lessons from LPTiger5...
Posted on 7/6/24 at 9:13 am to hehateme2285
quote:
Learn aimpoint
If I’m waiting on a group and see some dipshit aimpointing for his 7th shot, I’m hitting into them. frick that.
Posted on 7/6/24 at 11:05 am to makersmark1
quote:
As others have said, most greens are designed for water to flow off of them. They usually are designed for water NOT to flow into bunkers. Grass will usually grow downhill or to sun. Greens surrounded by tall trees can have mismatches between grain and slope. Usually slope wins. Look at the cup or for old cups on your line. The rough edge is away from you down grain, and into you if into the grain. On sunny days, down grain is shiny, into grain is darker. If you see multiple conflicting things, aim at the hole and try to get the speed correct.
I agree with about all of this.
One thing I would warn against is listening to a lot of fellow competitors. People just have different philosophies. You’ll have people in the same group playing 4 or 5 inches worth of break difference. The guy playing less break is usually hitting it harder to take some break out of it, and if they miss, it’s going to run by 2 or 3 feet. While the next guy will play more break, and let it kind of trickle with break, but they usually risk leaving it short a foot or two.
Neither method is wrong, just know the method that is more comfortable for you and ignore the guy that does the other one.
Posted on 7/6/24 at 12:34 pm to lsu wings
All of the above. Also, with Bermuda greens, some courses have more grain than others. This has to do with the type of Bermuda and length of the cut (longer blades of grass usually mean more grain). I like to hit down-,into-, and cross-grain putts on the putting green.
Also, grain comes into play with chipping. If you’re landing the chip into the grain, it checks up more.
Also, grain comes into play with chipping. If you’re landing the chip into the grain, it checks up more.
Posted on 7/6/24 at 11:05 pm to Eye dentist
Thanks all, will work on all of it! Lots of great advice as always!
Posted on 7/7/24 at 5:55 am to lsu wings
The guy I took lessons from at 265 had me reading using what he called the clock method.
Imagine a circle equidistant from the hole as the ball. Find a point on that circle where it’s a straight uphill putt. That’s 6 o’clock.
If your ball is between 12-6, it breaks left. If your ball is between 6-12, it breaks right.
Between 9-3 is downhill and between 3-9 is uphill
Read the putt at either 3 or 9, depending on what side of the clock your ball is on. That’s the most breaking putt. Then you can pretty closely estimate your putts break by how close the ball is to 3 or 9.
It sounds like it slows the game down, but it’s really no more than a 15-20 second process.
Example:
Ball is at the 2 o’clock position. You read 3 o’clock and it breaks 6 inches. You now have a good read that your putt is a slightly downhill putt that breaks 4 inches.
Imagine a circle equidistant from the hole as the ball. Find a point on that circle where it’s a straight uphill putt. That’s 6 o’clock.
If your ball is between 12-6, it breaks left. If your ball is between 6-12, it breaks right.
Between 9-3 is downhill and between 3-9 is uphill
Read the putt at either 3 or 9, depending on what side of the clock your ball is on. That’s the most breaking putt. Then you can pretty closely estimate your putts break by how close the ball is to 3 or 9.
It sounds like it slows the game down, but it’s really no more than a 15-20 second process.
Example:
Ball is at the 2 o’clock position. You read 3 o’clock and it breaks 6 inches. You now have a good read that your putt is a slightly downhill putt that breaks 4 inches.
This post was edited on 7/7/24 at 5:57 am
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