Question about broadhead tuning for serious bow shooters

Field points to broadheads
Top hats first = coarse tuning
Rest = fine tuning

So far I have one response for chase FP and once response for chase BH

I am all within spec on DL, cam timing brace height and axle to axle. How exactly will a cable or string twist affect the broadhead planing?

For the broadhead tuning I was at 20 yards

No haven’t tried other heads. I’m wanting to tune my bow to the heads I’m shooting

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am all within spec on DL, cam timing brace height and axle to axle. How exactly will a cable or string twist affect the broadhead planing?

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It shouldn’t. If the bow is in spec, move the broadheads to the field points with micro adjustments to the rest. I would paper tune first, that will probably fix it before you have to do much else. Shoot the same arrow several times and make sure you aren’t torquing it, get the same tear with the same arrow, get that same tear with all your arrows, and then get rid of it. The broadheads will hit the same after that.

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am all within spec on DL, cam timing brace height and axle to axle. How exactly will a cable or string twist affect the broadhead planing?

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Shortening the cable affects cam lean and minutely adjust each fork of the limb. Same way that idler wheel adjustments add tension to the cables.
As for the head I’m not saying try a different style or brand just try a different one in the pack or a different arrow in and confirm it’s truly a bow tune issue and not a arrow/head combination issue.
For me i start with paper tune at 8-10 feet then paper 10-20ft then I shoot my field point at 20yd on a tape line then 30yd and adjust then 40then adjust rest . Then broadhead at 20 and adjust then 30 and adjust then 40 and adjust.
Paper is a starting point to which I start fine tuning and making very incremental adjustments.
Are you shooting helical ?

Shoot a bare shaft at 10 yards. That will reveal anything a lot.

I didn’t realize how much conflicting information there was on group tuning online. Wish I still had my old NAP instructions because that worked for me the last time I had to do it.

Sounds like you got it all figured out man.

So I also shoot a VXR and have done I think every type of tuning discussed in this thread to that bow.

Here’s what worked for me:

1. Put rest in center shot. IIRC that is 13/16. You should ultimately land somewhere around there.

2. Paper tune as a starting point.

3. If bullet holes (like you said) shoot some bare shafts (with field tips on!!!) at 10 yards , likely will mimic your broadheads and be right of your fletched field tips.

4. Move rest TOWARD the broadhead or bareshaft. In your case move the rest right. Small increments, shoot and repeat.. (The bareshaft is showing you where the power stroke of the bow wants to go, you move the rest in that direction. )

5. If it takes more than 2/16 of an inch, meaning you end at 11/16 or less from riser, you won’t fix it with your rest.

6. At this point move it back to center shot 13/16 and start work on top hats. (This is what did it for me)

7. Look at your current top hat settings. You will need to slide the cams to the left. Easiest thing to do is to flip the top hats IF that will shift your cam to the left. Watch some videos on it. If that won’t work for you then order a set of top hats online. It’s not complicated but can get messed up if you don’t pay attention, they have to be matching sets. (I flipped mine around and it was money, I had already bought the set of top hats but didn’t need them) .

8. Shoot some more bare shafts and see what you got. Will take a little trial and error.

9. Move on to 20, 30, 40 yards with bareshafts.

10. Once you are out to 40 with a bareshaft hitting with your field points, your shite is dialed in.

11. Should be able to shoot just about any broadhead if your arrow weight/spine/fletching are appropriate.

I did this a year ago and I have broadheads and field points still together at 75 yards.

* I would not recommend messing with cables unless you have someone you really really trust working on it. Sammy at chags is the only guy I would let do that to my bow.

Also, be super careful with form when you shoot or you will end up chasing your tail like I did for a while.

Hope that helps.

Shoot Slick Trick broadheads

The top hat system is horrible. It’s setup this way to keep the avg bowhunter in the bowshop spending money on Mathews shite. Bow tech, pse, and a couple others have now made it possible to tune your bow without a press. Mathews needs to figure that out and a new adjustable mod system. But I doubt they want to.