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Normandy in fall

Posted on 7/19/17 at 9:51 am
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 9:51 am
Considering a fall trip to Normandy....DDay beaches, St. Malo, Mont St Michel, etc. Flying into/out of Paris, thinking of renting a car and meandering around the region. Tell me about your Normandy experiences. TIA. ETA: I'm trying to decide between fall in Normandy & fall in Provence.
This post was edited on 7/19/17 at 10:20 am
Posted by Jackalope
Paris. (Austin Native)
Member since Apr 2009
2252 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 12:30 pm to
I'm assuming you're talking about Oct/Nov?

Paris, Normandy, and Brittany all have crazy wet during the autumn. And it's usually about 50-60 degrees. So cold and wet. But the crowds are almost at their lowest.

Paris is also wet this time of the year, but the crowds aren't too different around the main attractions. Although, the lines for some things are smaller.

And for something like Mont St Michel, that is a very welcome thing. I once had to take some family visiting me to Mont St Michel in the summer.....I nearly killed my own family and every tourist there. La Mère Poulard's omelette is unique and good. Expensive but it's like eating history. Usually the wait can be hours upon hours, but should be better this time of the year. Make sure to check the tide schedule here

St Malo is a nice town, and worth a day or so. Weather is the same as the rest o

Posted by BlackCoffeeKid
Member since Mar 2016
11697 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 12:53 pm to
quote:

La Mère Poulard's omelette is unique and good. Expensive but it's like eating history

Had a teacher give an entire lecture on this woman's omelettes, I have been wanting to try one ever since.
Posted by MajorTiger
Baton Rouge
Member since May 2011
189 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 1:01 pm to
Definitely rent a car. Normandy is not that big (takes 10-15 min to go from town to town), and it can be a nightmare traveling with a tour group. Since a good bit of stuff is outside, I agree with the poster above that rain could definitely derail your plans.

On your way from Paris, I would suggest stopping in Giverny to see Monet's house and gardens. It's 10-15 min of the auto route, only takes a couple of hours to visit. You can walk around the ponds where he painted water lilies. LINK /

I've stayed in both Caen and Bayeux, and would suggest Bayeux. We stayed here: LINK /. You're a five minute walk from the Bayeux tapestry (LINK ). If you're into history, definitely go.

You can hit up most of the WWII stuff in one day, but I would block off two. The museum in Caen is excellent; I would stop there first as it gives you a good background of D-Day (which would be useful if you or anyone you're traveling with needs some context). (LINK /).

IMO, the only must see for D-Day is the American cemetery. Pointe-du-hoc would be my next recommendation. Other than that, there are a bunch of memorials/museums that you can do; those are simply dependent on your taste/interests.

You need a full day for Mont St. Michel, especially if you're staying near the D-Day beaches (it will take some time to travel there and back).

Also have some recommendations for Provence if that's what you decide to do.
This post was edited on 7/19/17 at 1:03 pm
Posted by BlackenedOut
The Big Sleazy
Member since Feb 2011
5800 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 1:22 pm to
Provence recs please.
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 1:52 pm to
Thanks so much--the Normandy option definitely will involve renting a car, and a stop at Giverny on the way out of Paris is on my potential itinerary.

Still trying to decide whether I want another cool & wet vacation (went to Dublin area in February; it pretty much drizzled the entire time & never got above 50 degrees), or if the sunny South is calling my name.

Part of me wants to go to St Malo, simply because my Acadian ancestors boarded a ship there and landed in Louisiana 80 days later....but I don't necessarily want to build a whole vacation around it.

RE: La Mere Poulard, I actually have a Poulard cookie tin on my office bookshelf, full of nespresso pods.

MajorTiger, pick one: 10 days in Provence or 10 days in Normandy....
Posted by MajorTiger
Baton Rouge
Member since May 2011
189 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 3:21 pm to
Tough choice...visiting the American cemetery in Normandy is one of the few things I think all Americans should do before they die. That said, I think there's more to do/see in Provence. Just IMO, I think 10 days in Normandy might be too long.

Provence is great because there's a large variety of things to do. Really, it just depends on your interests.

Aix-en-provence is very charming. Great markets/restaurants, but also very central. You can use it as home base and take day trips to most places in Provence. From Aix, go to the countryside and see Mt. St. Victoire (subject of many Cezanne paintings). One of the best meals I had in France was at this restaurant at the foot of the mountain: LINK

Marseille is the biggest city but, to be honest, I think you could skip it. Go to Cassis instead; it's a short drive from Marseille, much smaller (i.e., easier to get around) and also on the Mediterranean. Eat great seafood, drink some wine, take a boat ride to see the Calanques (LINK ).

You can visit Avignon, which has the Palais des Papes, home of the Avignon Papacy (LINK ).

Aigues Mortes is a cool medieval city still surrounded by the original fortifications: LINK .

The Pont-du-Gard is an old, impressive Roman aqueduct. You can swim or kayak in the river below (although it might be too cold). LINK

The Abbaye de Senaque is a 900 year old monastery in the middle of lavender fields: LINK

You can see great Roman ruins/structures in Nimes and Arles.

Other cool places to visit are L'isle sur la Sorgue, Gordes, Rousillon...

You have a ton of options, depending on your interests. And no matter what, great food/wine no matter where you go...


Posted by Jackalope
Paris. (Austin Native)
Member since Apr 2009
2252 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 3:22 pm to
quote:

MajorTiger, pick one: 10 days in Provence or 10 days in Normandy....


My gf and I did a roadtrip from Geneva thru la Provence, hitting up all the great towns, and ended in Nice. That's a pretty great roadtrip. And yes, skip Marseille.
This post was edited on 7/19/17 at 3:24 pm
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 3:44 pm to
quote:

Tough choice...visiting the American cemetery in Normandy is one of the few things I think all Americans should do before they die. That said, I think there's more to do/see in Provence. Just IMO, I think 10 days in Normandy might be too long.


So now I'm thinking 5-7 days around Normandy and the rest in Paris.
Posted by MajorTiger
Baton Rouge
Member since May 2011
189 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 3:47 pm to
quote:

Tough choice...visiting the American cemetery in Normandy is one of the few things I think all Americans should do before they die. That said, I think there's more to do/see in Provence. Just IMO, I think 10 days in Normandy might be too long.


Not a bad choice at all.
Posted by AlceeFortier
Member since Dec 2016
1795 posts
Posted on 7/19/17 at 7:40 pm to
You received some excellent responses here. It does rain a lotin the fall. I personally enjoyed normandy better than provence since i am a history buff. My wife liked provence better since she likes wine. I still get goosebumps thinking about my walk on omaha beach. We took a viking cruise up and down the soane and rhone. Very good food. Marseilles can indeed be skipped although a side trip to nice and monaco was worthwhile. Driving in normandy was easy. Bayeux is the perfect centerpoint.
Posted by tccdc
Washington, DC
Member since Sep 2007
3569 posts
Posted on 7/20/17 at 7:44 am to
hungry....I went in January of this year and did 7 days in Normandy and 3 in Paris, if I had to do it over, I would have done 6 and 4.

1 Day - Mt. St Michel
3 Days - Dday stuff....(I love history and did a lot German Cemeteries and their views also, so if just doing US stuff 2 days is good)
1 Day - Rouen
1 Day - Caen

We stayed in Bayeaux and during the offseason it really cheap. We got a nice suite at Hotel Reine Mathilde for peanuts compared to other times. They have a nice cafe there also.

Also did D-Day battle tours based out of Sainte Mere Eglise and during the low season you can pretty well customize what you want to see.

And if you get a chance, you can do some WW1 stuff also outside Paris.



Posted by LSUJuice
Back in Houston
Member since Apr 2004
17665 posts
Posted on 7/20/17 at 9:11 am to

In October 2015 we went to Normandy. Landed in morning in Paris, stayed the day, then hopped on train the next morning to Caen. Rented a car in Caen, stayed at Chateau du Sully just outside of Bayeaux. Fantastic place. Drove and toured the D-Day sites ourselves. The beaches were surprisingly beautiful. I had always imagined it being murky water, but it was quite nice. Weather was dreary – foggy, misty temps in the 50s.

I highly recommend Pointe du Hoc. The bunkers and craters, plus the story of Rudder and the army rangers scaling the cliffs, combined with the scenery – really is a must see. From Normandy we drove to Burgundy.



Then in October 2016 we went back and spent more time in Normandy. This time rented car at CDG and drove. Weather was prettier – sunny with highs 60s to low 70s. Stayed in Honfleur for two nights then again at Chateau du Sully outside of Bayeaux. In Honfleur we stayed at a B&B called La Cour Sainte-Catherine. Loved it. Had some really amazing fish soup at two different restaurants in Honfleur. Can’t remember the names, but I can look back at credit card if requested.



Spent a day in Rouen, then spent a day in Etretat (beautiful, but possibly weather dependent). Then drove the Route du Cidre. I highly recommend that if you like Calvados (and you should). Calvados is amazing, and my regret is 1) not stopping more along the Route, and 2) not purchasing more. My parents are going back this year, and I have put in my request. The apples were just beginning to ripen when we went, which was mid-October. Go in late October, and there will be even more available.

I really really wish we had more time in this area, and when we go back it will be a higher priority. It’s quintessential Normandy. Stop in Pont-l’Eveque and Pierrefitte-en-Auge and partake in les produits du Normandie, namely Calvados et les fromages. Pont-l’Eveque is the popular regional cheese (aside from Camembert), but there are so many others to try. And there’s so much more along the Route du Cidre in the tiny towns and villages that we didn’t get to. Let me know if you’re interested in some more specifics, and I can look up the names of the places we went.

Posted by midlothianlsu
Midlothian, Texas
Member since Oct 2009
1410 posts
Posted on 7/20/17 at 10:39 am to
As others are saying, the Normandy thing is great. The
American Cemetery is a must. We stayed in Bayuex at Hotel Tardif, a former home built for one of Napoleon's guys. The townspeople in that area love Americans and there are American flags everywhere. There is a bar, I forget the name, where they pin currency up behind that bar. A few years ago I had the bartender put a $5 with "Geaux Tigers LSU" on top of a "Roll Tide" $1.



Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 7/20/17 at 12:09 pm to
Juice, the Calvados & Camembert are definitely part of the attraction for me; better half wants the military history, I want the cheese/butter/apples. I looked at the pics of Etretat--lovely--and I definitely want to seek out small producers on the byways.

Sorry, Provence, maybe next time.

Trying to decide if the first leg should be a train to Rouen or Caen, then pick up the car....or just rent the car directly at CDG & swing by Giverny on the way. Concerned about my jet lagged self driving too far on the first day.....so might just stop in Giverny for the night & set out for Etretat/Honfleur the next morning. (But I like planning almost as much as I like traveling.)
Posted by LSUJuice
Back in Houston
Member since Apr 2004
17665 posts
Posted on 7/20/17 at 3:55 pm to
The 2016 trip we got the car at CDG and stopped in Giverny. The driving helps make you stay awake. Check out Les Andelys as a place to stay. It's past Giverny near some great overlooks on the Seine. We drove through; didn't stay there, but it's a nice little town and I imagine you could find a neat b&b.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
20396 posts
Posted on 7/21/17 at 12:16 pm to
quote:

Concerned about my jet lagged self driving too far on the first day.


Definitely a concern. I tried to do that this past summer and was super tired. Like dangerous tired, and my wife kept falling asleep when she was supposed to help me. But we just stopped often. Given, I had flown through Dublin to Heathrow so we didn't arrive into Heathrow until 1pm. If I had landed at 8am or whatever a more normal direct flight time it would of been better IMO.

But, it does save you time and money. Getting the rental car directly from the airport is more expensive as far as the rental car goes but it saves you time and money as far as transportation to and from the airport goes in my experience.
This post was edited on 7/21/17 at 12:18 pm
Posted by tccdc
Washington, DC
Member since Sep 2007
3569 posts
Posted on 7/21/17 at 3:11 pm to
You are tired, but we drove from CDG to Bayeaux in 3.5 hours taking our time and stopping at all the oasis along the way (and there are lots of them) and was having soda and coffee.

We were in Bayeaux by 10 or 11am and dropped our stuff off and did the walking tour of the city. And Bayeaux is worth a half day so I did not feel we got cheated in any way.

But the time it was all done it was getting dark and crashed early and slept well since we did not sleep during the day.

So by the next day we were pretty adjusted and ready to take on France.
Posted by AlceeFortier
Member since Dec 2016
1795 posts
Posted on 7/22/17 at 3:22 pm to
in normandy beware of the salads. their custom is to crack a raw egg over the top!!!! otherwise the food and drink is fantastic. best roasted chicken in the world. butter butter butter.
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