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Started By
Message
Electronics Tinkerers - Project Enclosure Ideas
Posted on 3/5/23 at 1:10 am
Posted on 3/5/23 at 1:10 am
I've been working on a lot of small projects, like ESP based IoT sensors and lighting controllers and such, and one of the pain points for me is always the enclosure. I find it such a pain that I have a lot of devices in service naked.
For smaller projects like palm sized or less, I can usually easily find an appropriately sized enclosure for <$5, but for anything larger or which needs to be mounted to a wall or live outdoors, I end up spending a lot of time searching only to end up choosing an enclosure which costs several times more than the stuff it's enclosing.
So in the DIY spirit I decided to start building my own enclosures out of wood. I thought it would be easy, I mean how hard could it be to build a box? Well if you've never built a box before, give it a try and let me know how it goes.
I'm still working on my process with the aim of building enclosures using the bare minimum of tools and out of readily available commodity materials. I plan to make a youtube series out of it.
I'm mostly using the following materials:
1/4" lauan plywood ($17/sheet at my local hardware store)
11/16"x11/16" corner moulding (32 cents/foot at local store)
1/4"x1-1/2" lattice strips (33 cents/foot at local store)
bamboo skewers ($1 per 100 count at walmart)
wood glue
superglue
sandpaper
wood filler
paint
As for tools:
jigsaw (<$50 for a cheapie)
mitre box (<$15)
drill & bits (<$50 for cheapie)
combination square (~$10)
orbital sander (not required, <$50 for cheapie)
And that's about it I think. For around $100-150 investment in tools you can build an enclosure in the neighborhood of 8"x8"x4" using about $2 worth of materials when you would have otherwise paid $30 for a box from amazon. The cost of the enclosure doubles when you add a couple cable glands to it. Once you've cut up the whole $17 sheet of plywood and your $5 sticks of moulding and lattice, and maybe been through a can or two of $6 spray paint, you will have built more than 15 similar sized enclosures and recouped the cost of your tools 2-3 times over. And you still have the tools.
It does take maybe 30 minutes to an hour to put a box together, but I probably spend that much time searching amazon to buy one.
I know that relatively few people have a need for 15+ electronics enclosures, but some of us do, and I bet more of us will find other uses for simple (or more complicated) boxes if we already have the tools and materials hanging around.
Woodworking is a very common hobby, but it wasn't one of mine until I realized that I could combine it with one of the hobbies I did already have. So I guess the purpose of this thread is to see if any other tech folks around here do the same, or maybe inspire some of you to give it a try.
Some tips that I've picked up so far:
Wood glue is very strong, but not quite strong enough for simple butt joints on 1/4" plywood. I put little pieces of corner moulding on the inside of the box for added glue surface and side support, as well as to help keep things square which can be difficult when building relatively small boxes. A mitre box is handy for cranking these out, whether square cut for joining two sides or cut on 45 to join three sides in a corner.
If you get a cheap jigsaw, it will come with a cheap general purpose blade which you should throw directly in the trash. For a few dollars you can get a quality blade designed specifically for making clean cuts in thin plywood.
Bamboo skewers are great for making dowels or hinges.
Superglue is extremely handy where wood glue is not an option for whatever reason, or it can be used in combination with wood glue in cases where it's difficult to clamp your piece as the wood glue cures. In the case of small boxes with thin plywood, use wood glue on the long butt joints and superglue on your angle braces, or wood glue along most of the long butt joint and a dab of superglue on each end of it. In just a few seconds the bond will be strong enough to continue building without having to wait half an hour for a clamped bond to dry.
For smaller projects like palm sized or less, I can usually easily find an appropriately sized enclosure for <$5, but for anything larger or which needs to be mounted to a wall or live outdoors, I end up spending a lot of time searching only to end up choosing an enclosure which costs several times more than the stuff it's enclosing.
So in the DIY spirit I decided to start building my own enclosures out of wood. I thought it would be easy, I mean how hard could it be to build a box? Well if you've never built a box before, give it a try and let me know how it goes.
I'm still working on my process with the aim of building enclosures using the bare minimum of tools and out of readily available commodity materials. I plan to make a youtube series out of it.
I'm mostly using the following materials:
1/4" lauan plywood ($17/sheet at my local hardware store)
11/16"x11/16" corner moulding (32 cents/foot at local store)
1/4"x1-1/2" lattice strips (33 cents/foot at local store)
bamboo skewers ($1 per 100 count at walmart)
wood glue
superglue
sandpaper
wood filler
paint
As for tools:
jigsaw (<$50 for a cheapie)
mitre box (<$15)
drill & bits (<$50 for cheapie)
combination square (~$10)
orbital sander (not required, <$50 for cheapie)
And that's about it I think. For around $100-150 investment in tools you can build an enclosure in the neighborhood of 8"x8"x4" using about $2 worth of materials when you would have otherwise paid $30 for a box from amazon. The cost of the enclosure doubles when you add a couple cable glands to it. Once you've cut up the whole $17 sheet of plywood and your $5 sticks of moulding and lattice, and maybe been through a can or two of $6 spray paint, you will have built more than 15 similar sized enclosures and recouped the cost of your tools 2-3 times over. And you still have the tools.
It does take maybe 30 minutes to an hour to put a box together, but I probably spend that much time searching amazon to buy one.
I know that relatively few people have a need for 15+ electronics enclosures, but some of us do, and I bet more of us will find other uses for simple (or more complicated) boxes if we already have the tools and materials hanging around.
Woodworking is a very common hobby, but it wasn't one of mine until I realized that I could combine it with one of the hobbies I did already have. So I guess the purpose of this thread is to see if any other tech folks around here do the same, or maybe inspire some of you to give it a try.
Some tips that I've picked up so far:
Wood glue is very strong, but not quite strong enough for simple butt joints on 1/4" plywood. I put little pieces of corner moulding on the inside of the box for added glue surface and side support, as well as to help keep things square which can be difficult when building relatively small boxes. A mitre box is handy for cranking these out, whether square cut for joining two sides or cut on 45 to join three sides in a corner.
If you get a cheap jigsaw, it will come with a cheap general purpose blade which you should throw directly in the trash. For a few dollars you can get a quality blade designed specifically for making clean cuts in thin plywood.
Bamboo skewers are great for making dowels or hinges.
Superglue is extremely handy where wood glue is not an option for whatever reason, or it can be used in combination with wood glue in cases where it's difficult to clamp your piece as the wood glue cures. In the case of small boxes with thin plywood, use wood glue on the long butt joints and superglue on your angle braces, or wood glue along most of the long butt joint and a dab of superglue on each end of it. In just a few seconds the bond will be strong enough to continue building without having to wait half an hour for a clamped bond to dry.
Posted on 3/5/23 at 6:09 am to Korkstand
2 thoughts.
3d printer
Router in a router table
3d printer
Router in a router table
Posted on 3/5/23 at 8:35 am to Korkstand
I know these things don’t generate a ton of heat, and part of your goal is the fewest tools possible, but finishing nails pushed through an air compressor (which isn’t an uncommon tool to have in a garage, and the nail gun attachment isn’t terribly expensive), seems like it may have a better 18-month “hold together” rate.
Now, a screw would be just as good or better, but it would look fairly tacky
But as above: am I missing why 3d printing isn’t a good (re: the best) option? unless you’re specifically buying a veneered plywood and want to match a stain that’s near where the box is going or something, it seems as if 3d printing as a hobby is arguably as useful and popular as woodworking.
Now, a screw would be just as good or better, but it would look fairly tacky
But as above: am I missing why 3d printing isn’t a good (re: the best) option? unless you’re specifically buying a veneered plywood and want to match a stain that’s near where the box is going or something, it seems as if 3d printing as a hobby is arguably as useful and popular as woodworking.
Posted on 3/5/23 at 10:01 am to armsdealer
quote:
2 thoughts.
3d printer
Router in a router table
My 2 thoughts
I have a 3d printer and it is not suited for what I'm doing
If someone has a router table they don't need me to show them how to build a box
Posted on 3/5/23 at 10:55 am to Hopeful Doc
quote:I don't think I'll have a good time trying to use finishing nails to make butt joints with 1/4" ply
I know these things don’t generate a ton of heat, and part of your goal is the fewest tools possible, but finishing nails pushed through an air compressor (which isn’t an uncommon tool to have in a garage, and the nail gun attachment isn’t terribly expensive), seems like it may have a better 18-month “hold together” rate.
Now, a screw would be just as good or better, but it would look fairly tacky
quote:3d printers are great and I have one. If you're making small enclosures then you should absolutely use it if you have it. And if you're making big enclosures you should use heavier materials and screws/nails. I'm aiming specifically for the mid-size boxes that are too big for most 3d printers and too small to use heavy ply and lumber.
But as above: am I missing why 3d printing isn’t a good (re: the best) option? unless you’re specifically buying a veneered plywood and want to match a stain that’s near where the box is going or something, it seems as if 3d printing as a hobby is arguably as useful and popular as woodworking.
Think breadbox size.
Like right now in my attic there is a 12v/5v power supply and a dig-uno inside a $25 plastic enclosure. I think my 3d printer has a build area large enough, so I could spend an hour or so drawing something up or finding something suitable on thingiverse and let it print for a few hours, or I could spend an hour putting a wooden box together using materials that cost about the same as the filament.
I have another dig-uno and power supply which is larger than my printer's build bed mounted to the outside of the house behind some hedges. That's in a $40 plastic enclosure which I'm about to replace with a $2 wooden one.
Next up I'll need an enclosure for an esp32 with 4-6 18650 cells with charger circuit and a solar panel on top. This again will be too large for my printer, and with wood I can easily size and shape it perfectly for the solar panel rather than trying to rig something to a plastic enclosure that I might buy, and again the cost will be $2 rather than $40-ish.
Then I have an IoTaWatt power monitor mounted directly to the wall next to the panel, and it will look much nicer inside a small $3 wooden cabinet painted to match the wall/trim rather than in an expensive but cheap looking plastic or metal enclosure. IMO.
I understand that relatively few people, even here on the tech board, have a need for this many enclosures of this size, but some people might. Judging by the replies so far, there is an aversion to using wood, and honestly I used to avoid it too. If I couldn't 3d print it I would buy something. But after giving it a go I think it's a solid option in many cases, and it's pretty fun. I'll be doing some other tech-related woodworking projects as well. For example, a floating shelf with LED strip up and/or downlights. The LED strips will be recessed to be flush with the wood and inside those capped aluminum channels, so they will be barely noticeable when not turned on. It'll be PoE powered so I won't need an electrician to wire it (or to do it myself poorly), and the PoE splitter and LED controller and wiring will be hidden inside the shelf (finished thickness of the shelf will be about 2"). I'll probably add a couple capacitive sensors so it can be turned on/off with a touch in addition to being automated of course.
Posted on 3/5/23 at 7:52 pm to Korkstand
I use a laser cutter and 1/8" plexiglass for most of my small project enclusures. Alternatively, I use 3/16" plywood for others.
So yup I can make boxes with precision :)
So yup I can make boxes with precision :)
Posted on 3/5/23 at 8:46 pm to dakarx
Nice! A few questions...
How do you do your joints with plexi vs plywood?
Do you do any weatherproofing or mostly indoor enclosures?
Do you mount them, and if so how do you make the mounts?
What type of cable glands do you use, if any?
How do you do your joints with plexi vs plywood?
Do you do any weatherproofing or mostly indoor enclosures?
Do you mount them, and if so how do you make the mounts?
What type of cable glands do you use, if any?
Posted on 3/6/23 at 7:18 am to Korkstand
How do you do your joints with plexi vs plywood? -
Plexi/acrylic I just use Weldon-4, done right it's water proof.
Do you do any weatherproofing or mostly indoor enclosures?
Mostly indoor but acrylic is waterproof
Do you mount them, and if so how do you make the mounts?
Haven't had to make mounts specifically, however I have some 3D printers that would remedy that if needed.
What type of cable glands do you use, if any?
Mostly indoor - so just grommets.
That being said next project will be an ESP32 weather station (BME280, wind direction, anemometer, etc), either 18650 or LiPo charged with small solar panel(s). Will take a little more planning and design for the enclosure and make it hurricane winds resistant.
Plexi/acrylic I just use Weldon-4, done right it's water proof.
Do you do any weatherproofing or mostly indoor enclosures?
Mostly indoor but acrylic is waterproof
Do you mount them, and if so how do you make the mounts?
Haven't had to make mounts specifically, however I have some 3D printers that would remedy that if needed.
What type of cable glands do you use, if any?
Mostly indoor - so just grommets.
That being said next project will be an ESP32 weather station (BME280, wind direction, anemometer, etc), either 18650 or LiPo charged with small solar panel(s). Will take a little more planning and design for the enclosure and make it hurricane winds resistant.
Posted on 3/6/23 at 8:26 am to dakarx
quote:And what about the plywood?
How do you do your joints with plexi vs plywood? -
Plexi/acrylic I just use Weldon-4, done right it's water proof.
quote:Awesome, I plan to make a few of those too. Will it be within wifi range, and if not what will you use for connectivity?
That being said next project will be an ESP32 weather station (BME280, wind direction, anemometer, etc), either 18650 or LiPo charged with small solar panel(s). Will take a little more planning and design for the enclosure and make it hurricane winds resistant.
Posted on 3/6/23 at 8:47 am to Korkstand
Plywood - any decent wood glue (Titebond II is what I normally keep on hand for larger projects) even PVA glue works well for indoor/light duty.
Posted on 3/6/23 at 9:41 am to dakarx
I'm wondering more about the physical process when making a butt joint corner with two pieces of thin ply. Do you add support pieces? Just jig it and let cure before moving on? I haven't found anything easier or faster than titebond in the joint with a couple small pieces of corner moulding superglued on the inside. Holds reasonably square and eliminates the need for a jig or clamps.
For a better idea of where I'm trying to go, I want a wooden enclosure to be a 30 minute project you can do on your kitchen table.
For a better idea of where I'm trying to go, I want a wooden enclosure to be a 30 minute project you can do on your kitchen table.
Posted on 3/6/23 at 11:38 am to Korkstand
If you're going to do laser cut then dovetail joints and glue seems to be the way to go.

Posted on 3/6/23 at 12:36 pm to hob
Yes those are very nice, but I'm going to target an audience who may not have ever worked with wood or electronics before, much less have a laser cutter.
Posted on 3/7/23 at 7:06 am to Korkstand
Was going to suggest a mini tablesaw for small hobby/craft boxes, but you can probably find full sized table top saws on the secondary market for less (and with a lower chinesium content)


Posted on 3/7/23 at 8:00 am to Korkstand
.
This post was edited on 4/29/23 at 4:52 pm
Posted on 3/9/23 at 8:39 pm to Korkstand
quote:
Think breadbox size.
Makes a ton more sense- I thought you were going flavored-pi size and couldn’t figure out why wood was more economical, but what you’re doing makes way more sense to use wood than filament. I haven’t done any of that yet, but woodworking is fun. I have a few upcoming projects that will require waterproofing, so I’ll be following, but I think I’m just going to pay the premium for 2-3 enclosures that will be heavily exposed to the elements (including sprinklers) that are weatherproofed.
quote:
floating shelf with LED strip up and/or downlights. The LED strips will be recessed to be flush with the wood and inside those capped aluminum channels, so they will be barely noticeable when not turned on
That’s intriguing. I’ve got a fairly standard built in shelf (the white ones with cabinets underneath with a fireplace between them and a tv mounted on it like most living rooms build in the late 90/early 2000s that surely sparks the same picture in everyone’s mind). The shelves are moveable/adjustable. I’ve got another built in (though with a natural wood finish) in my office, and then my kitchen has a set of shelves that are also moveable, but they’ve got glass doors (so sort of a built in China cabinet, but not really). I want to light all of those and am debating just putting strips along the front of it glowing backwards (very near invisible without being recessed) vs something similar to what you’re talking about , kind of like this:

Along the shelves (since they’d be easy to remove, run them through a router, and put them back).
I remember you’re fairly big into WLED projects- how are you getting PoE powered lighting though? One of the little adapters that separates Ethernet from DC power or is there actually a PoE powered board out there? That would serve me super well in either scenario.
Posted on 3/9/23 at 9:13 pm to Hopeful Doc
Wow, I had not seen that pic before or any like it, but that's pretty much exactly what I had planned.
My boxes won't be watertight, but neither are most outdoor electric pans/boxes. I figure as long as I mind the drip edges, caulk where appropriate, and put a couple coats of paint, they should keep water out and last a few years at least.
quote:Most boards that support PoE do so via HAT, but I plan to just use a 12v PoE splitter with a dig-uno or what-have-you. The Dig board guy wrote an article about running them via PoE here.
how are you getting PoE powered lighting though? One of the little adapters that separates Ethernet from DC power or is there actually a PoE powered board out there? That would serve me super well in either scenario.
quote:Mind you I'm just getting started so it'll be a couple years before I know how weatherproof my boxes are.
I have a few upcoming projects that will require waterproofing, so I’ll be following, but I think I’m just going to pay the premium for 2-3 enclosures that will be heavily exposed to the elements (including sprinklers) that are weatherproofed.

My boxes won't be watertight, but neither are most outdoor electric pans/boxes. I figure as long as I mind the drip edges, caulk where appropriate, and put a couple coats of paint, they should keep water out and last a few years at least.
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