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Posted on 6/12/25 at 9:44 am to Chris4x4gill2
quote:
This. Dont rely on the frame for ground contact. Run a ground wire to each tail light and back to the plug.
I might do that. First I will hook the trailer to the truck and check them, and then if that is still an issue, run wire to each tail light back to the plug. I have extra wire.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 10:30 am to kywildcatfanone
Not sure if you have a tilt trailer, but I’ve had issues with two of them grounded to trailer and having problem. Ground doesn’t make good contact one it gets older through the pivot point. Run ground to plug all the time now.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 10:39 am to kywildcatfanone
Thats a clear indication that you have a ground issue. Done correctly, you shouldn't have to connect the trailer to the truck except with the wires for everything to work. If hitching up helps dramatically, it means that most likely, the ground wire from the plug to the trailer frame has a connection issue.
Posted on 6/12/25 at 11:24 am to Run up middle
quote:
Not sure if you have a tilt trailer, but I’ve had issues with two of them grounded to trailer and having problem. Ground doesn’t make good contact one it gets older through the pivot point.
Not a tilt trailer, but good advice.
Posted on 6/13/25 at 12:03 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Running dedicated ground wires to everything helps tremendously.
Winner
quote:
dont use wire nuts. That's for buildings.
Butt splice using proper crimpers with electrical joint compound inside the butt splice with heat shrink tubing over the splice should last forever.
quote:
Stuff that moves needs adhesive splices.
I’d like to learn more about this. Can you explain further? Thanks
Posted on 6/14/25 at 12:29 pm to Harald Ekernson
So, I'm back with an update. Sort of. My issue hasn't changed, but I did everything I could think of to help with the ground.
I cleaned the ball and the cradle underneath with a wire wheel. I removed my ground and cleaned it up better, as well as removed the rear brake lights and cleaned up around them. Didn't change anything.
I then ran separate grounds to the rear lights on both sides. Didn't change anything.
So, in summary, I have ran all new wiring, cleaned up all connection points, ran separate grounds to the rear brake lights on both sides, and here is what is happening:
Marker lights are fine all the time.
When all lights are "on" and parked, all lights are on including the brake lights.
Turn signals and flashers still barely pulse in the trailer, so my original issue after wiring hasn't changed.
I'm sort of thinking now I have the wrong bulbs. Unfortunately, I threw away the original bulbs, so I'm trying to determine now how to find and get the right bulbs. I went to an auto parts store today, and they have a dozen different ones of that type. These are the bulbs that are about as big around as a nickel and push in and twist. I didn't really find any markings on the brake lights with a model number or anything to get maybe light kit number to match up a bulb. Any advice?
I'm also thinking of simply buying new brake lights and see if that fixes it, but I'm not sure if that is the right move either. Will take any advice. Thanks gents!
I cleaned the ball and the cradle underneath with a wire wheel. I removed my ground and cleaned it up better, as well as removed the rear brake lights and cleaned up around them. Didn't change anything.
I then ran separate grounds to the rear lights on both sides. Didn't change anything.
So, in summary, I have ran all new wiring, cleaned up all connection points, ran separate grounds to the rear brake lights on both sides, and here is what is happening:
Marker lights are fine all the time.
When all lights are "on" and parked, all lights are on including the brake lights.
Turn signals and flashers still barely pulse in the trailer, so my original issue after wiring hasn't changed.
I'm sort of thinking now I have the wrong bulbs. Unfortunately, I threw away the original bulbs, so I'm trying to determine now how to find and get the right bulbs. I went to an auto parts store today, and they have a dozen different ones of that type. These are the bulbs that are about as big around as a nickel and push in and twist. I didn't really find any markings on the brake lights with a model number or anything to get maybe light kit number to match up a bulb. Any advice?
I'm also thinking of simply buying new brake lights and see if that fixes it, but I'm not sure if that is the right move either. Will take any advice. Thanks gents!
Posted on 6/14/25 at 1:03 pm to kywildcatfanone
Do you know how to use a multi meter?
You need to use that at the bulb socket and then work your way backwards to the truck fuse box
You need to use that at the bulb socket and then work your way backwards to the truck fuse box
Posted on 6/14/25 at 1:13 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Running dedicated ground wires to everything helps tremendously.
The only way you'll keep the lights working. Use quality wire and connectors. I did my boat trailer lights with dedicated grounds, good heat shrink connectors, and I am going on 5 years of trouble free lights on a boat trailer that get dunked into saltwater several times a month. I am still surprised, if I got a year before without having issues I was thrilled.
LINK
Those are the connectors I used, I was skeptical at first as they were pretty new to the market back then. The colors you see in them is a silicon that spreads around the wire as you melt it and seals water from getting into the connector, the center section melts and bonds the wires together. Slickest stuff since sliced bread
This post was edited on 6/14/25 at 1:18 pm
Posted on 6/14/25 at 1:19 pm to kywildcatfanone
Buy new LED lights and be done with it, I'm betting you either have the wrong bulbs or there is an issue with the lights.
Posted on 6/14/25 at 2:33 pm to Harald Ekernson
Use adhesive heat shrink or connectors that come with adhesive heat shrink, and properly shrink them with a heat gun.
It basically glues the cable jacket to the insulator and the insulator to the connector. It isnt coming apart like that. Use a good crimper (a ratchet crimper with the correct insert) and you've now made a proper marine grade ABYC approved wire connection.
If youre like most people though, even a half assed crimp with channel locks will hold forever with a good adhesive heat shrink.
It basically glues the cable jacket to the insulator and the insulator to the connector. It isnt coming apart like that. Use a good crimper (a ratchet crimper with the correct insert) and you've now made a proper marine grade ABYC approved wire connection.
If youre like most people though, even a half assed crimp with channel locks will hold forever with a good adhesive heat shrink.
Posted on 6/14/25 at 2:36 pm to TxWadingFool
Stuff like this is why it makes it difficult to give good advice in these wiring threads.
The way to properly do this is to pull the bulbs, get a meter, start at the source (the truck plug) and work down the line jiggling and pulling on stuff until you find a trouble connection, and then continue on, all the way to the plug. Every circuit, all the way to the end.
Or, change EVERYTHING.
The way to properly do this is to pull the bulbs, get a meter, start at the source (the truck plug) and work down the line jiggling and pulling on stuff until you find a trouble connection, and then continue on, all the way to the plug. Every circuit, all the way to the end.
Or, change EVERYTHING.
Posted on 6/14/25 at 5:21 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I did use heat shrink connectors
Posted on 6/14/25 at 6:01 pm to kywildcatfanone
quote:
When all lights are "on" and parked, all lights are on including the brake lights.
You have a short circuit, but not the kind that will cause a fuse to melt. You need to use a multimeter to test the running lights, left brake/turn, right brake/turn, and ground. Check the resistance, or continuity at the 4 pin plug (I’m assuming it’s a little trailer without brakes). If the wire colors are green, brown, yellow, and white, turn your meter to continuity check and make sure you don’t get continuity. There will be some resistance as you’ll be measuring through the light bulbs, but the meter shouldn’t beep for continuity when you check from one color to the other.
quote:
I'm sort of thinking now I have the wrong bulbs.
Possible, but that’s not causing your brake lights to illuminate when your regular lights are on with brake pressed.
quote:
Any advice?
You might be best removing all your wiring including the plug, throwing it in the trash, and rewiring. Or take it to a professional.
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