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re: Truck A/C blowing hot at idle (Updated on pg 2)
Posted on 6/8/15 at 7:50 pm to Hammertime
Posted on 6/8/15 at 7:50 pm to Hammertime
May not be that low as much as just low enough to cause something to trip under transient conditions.
0
Posted on 6/8/15 at 7:58 pm to 300HOGSLAYER
quote:So what happens if I can't?
if you can grab it and stop it while it's running
Posted on 6/8/15 at 8:05 pm to Hammertime
Drink some beer 1st buddy!
You'll be ok!
You'll be ok!
Posted on 6/8/15 at 8:39 pm to Hammertime
Don't need to grab it, just put some heavy gloves on and brush the fan after the engine has settled into its normal idle RPM. Goal is to see if it takes only a little effort to stop the fan. If it stops easy the clutch is shot. Happened on my Ranger a few years ago but because the truck has a large electric fan too the only symptom was the coolant temp getting a little hotter while idling for more than a few minutes.
Posted on 6/8/15 at 10:31 pm to 300HOGSLAYER
Fan clutch is weak on my tacoma, similar symptoms as op, about 40F at the vent underway after enough time to cool off.
Posted on 6/9/15 at 7:17 am to Hammertime
I have some good Matco gauges. I'll hook em up for ya.
Posted on 6/9/15 at 7:37 am to meauxjeaux2
(no message)
This post was edited on 11/17/15 at 9:51 pm
Posted on 6/9/15 at 8:01 am to Hammertime
If the suction pressure isn't holding steady while the compressor is clutched in, it's low on freon.
Usually when it's low on freon, it will clutch in, suction PSI will steadily drop slowly till it trips the pressure switch, and it kicks out. With it running on maximum everything the suction pressure should stabilize around 40-50 pounds and the compressor should never clutch out. Make sure you leave the door open while you're doing it so it doesn't get cold in the cab and start cycling.
Usually when it's low on freon, it will clutch in, suction PSI will steadily drop slowly till it trips the pressure switch, and it kicks out. With it running on maximum everything the suction pressure should stabilize around 40-50 pounds and the compressor should never clutch out. Make sure you leave the door open while you're doing it so it doesn't get cold in the cab and start cycling.
Posted on 6/9/15 at 8:33 am to meauxjeaux2
I am busy as frick during the week now because I just started a new 7-4 internship with classes every day, so it would have to be on the weekend
Posted on 6/9/15 at 8:41 am to Hammertime
that's ok bro. Just let me know
Posted on 6/9/15 at 9:11 am to meauxjeaux2
This shite has been kicking my arse. Have to be in Mandeville for 7 every morning, and have class until 9 every night. Glad it's only lasting a couple of months
Posted on 7/23/15 at 7:29 pm to Hammertime
Update on this thread because I just checked everything with a good set of gauges.
Put a new OEM HD fan clutch
Freon levels 45/250, and both ~100 with a/c off
Temp at vents is 60 degrees
It'll still randomly get cold. By randomly, I mean out of the blue, and stay cold for a couple of minutes/hours/day/two days. Then, it is back to the 60 degree cool air. Then, it might randomly get cold again for no reason. I have absolutely no idea wtf is making it do that.
Put a new OEM HD fan clutch
Freon levels 45/250, and both ~100 with a/c off
Temp at vents is 60 degrees
It'll still randomly get cold. By randomly, I mean out of the blue, and stay cold for a couple of minutes/hours/day/two days. Then, it is back to the 60 degree cool air. Then, it might randomly get cold again for no reason. I have absolutely no idea wtf is making it do that.
Posted on 7/23/15 at 7:56 pm to Hammertime
Might be the blend door actuator. Might be borderline low on R134a too. My Ranger gave low/high side readings that were within spec according to the manual but it was actually more than a can low. Basically the accumulator had no reserve to keep up when it really warmed up. Pumped in 19oz into a ~30oz system to get it right.
Posted on 7/23/15 at 7:56 pm to Hammertime
Try replacing the a/c pressure switch.
It a switch on the dryer bottle, that take 5 min to change out for about 25 dollars
You can jumper the switch out to test it. The switch controls the compressor. When you jump the switch, the compressor will stay on.
It a switch on the dryer bottle, that take 5 min to change out for about 25 dollars
You can jumper the switch out to test it. The switch controls the compressor. When you jump the switch, the compressor will stay on.
Posted on 7/23/15 at 8:04 pm to hogdaddy
It never clicked on or off when I was getting the levels right. Turned out to be 65/325 before I let a bunch out. After driving for a while, it is now blowing 74 
Eta: It sweats about 10x more water than I've ever seen a car drip. There is a puddle after maybe 2 minutes, but the line after the orifice isn't ridiculously cold either
Eta: It sweats about 10x more water than I've ever seen a car drip. There is a puddle after maybe 2 minutes, but the line after the orifice isn't ridiculously cold either
This post was edited on 7/23/15 at 8:08 pm
Posted on 7/23/15 at 8:11 pm to Clames
Blend door actuator works like it should. Goes from hot to cold on each side perfectly, when I switch it only
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