Started By
Message

re: Tell me about raising chickens

Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:37 am to
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48859 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:37 am to
I've been reading it. The chicken tractor is like P Allen Smiths on a 16' trailer. It's really nice so it's one reason I want to see if I can make this work. I'm not sure how effective the electric fence is but I was told it works. If not I'm not sure what to do as far as keeping predators away.

And at night they will go in the coop on their own? And do I have to close the door? I guess what my big concern is since this is 45 minutes from my home do I have to be there daily or is every few days ok? Provided I have adequate water and food when I'm gone.
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48859 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:39 am to
Are roosters even allowed in the city?
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48859 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:42 am to


Very similar to this. Not quite as pretty but close.
Posted by Alleman
St. George
Member since Apr 2013
741 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:47 am to
I know someone who has chickens, all are different breeds so there should be no problem there.

In Baton Rouge and the residential part of will hopefully become St. George, there is a limit on how many chickens one can have and I don't think roosters are allowed (not sure about the really rural part of the parish so check your local ordinances).

I get a dozen eggs occasionally and they do taste better than those bought at the store. My HOA doesn't allow chickens so it isn't something I can even consider.
Posted by Alahunter
Member since Jan 2008
90739 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:51 am to
Expect to come across chicken snakes when you go to get eggs. If you end up with dead chickens with nothing but their heads gone, you've got possum troubles. And when you hear a lot of cackling.. you've probably got a fresh egg to go get.

Oh, and don't boil fresh eggs. They're hell to peel. Let them age a couple of weeks.
This post was edited on 5/10/14 at 11:52 am
Posted by Nodust
Member since Aug 2010
22632 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 11:53 am to
Chicken Tractor is the way to go.
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48859 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 12:09 pm to
I ain't crazy about hearing I'll deal with chicken snakes.

So how long after the egg is laid can it stay out? If I pick up every few days is that ok? And do I need to refrigerate them immediately? And if refrigerated how long will they keep? I know it's not exact I'm just asking whatever pops into my head now.
Posted by CHEDBALLZ
South Central LA
Member since Dec 2009
21938 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 12:15 pm to
I have a buff orpington a black orpington and a rhode island red. They lay eggs on a 27 hour cycle. I get 2-3 eggs. Feed them laying pellets. I made a waterer out of PVC pipe and waterer nipples. They only time.the smell is bad is after the rain. I got some lye from the feed store and spread it when it gets bad. It kills the smell.

Be prepared if you have a chicken tractor to move it everyday. If not chickens will eat all the grass down to the dirt in less than 3 days.
Posted by Alahunter
Member since Jan 2008
90739 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 12:37 pm to
They don't have to be refrigerated immediately. About a week, two at the most is the longest I'd leave them at room temp before putting them in the fridge though. They say they can last a month at room temp. Never tried it that long myself though.


chicken snakes aren't a big deal. They won't strike at you. Usually. Just pick them up and remove them from the area. Take them far enough away that they won't return, if you don't kill them.
This post was edited on 5/10/14 at 12:38 pm
Posted by INFIDEL
The couch
Member since Aug 2006
16199 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 12:59 pm to
They'll go in at night, but so will predators. Unless you have an automatic door on a timer.
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48859 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 1:12 pm to
Great information guys. I really appreciate this. How about vitamins, medicines etc...? Any kind of things like that I need to consider?
Posted by Alahunter
Member since Jan 2008
90739 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 1:42 pm to
Shouldn't need anything.

If you raise from chicks, just some grower pellets when feeding. If you hatch some on your own, be mindful of the temp and they do make some meds to mix with food, otherwise, just let nature do it's thing if you let a hen set on a clutch and hatch em out on their own.
Posted by INFIDEL
The couch
Member since Aug 2006
16199 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 1:48 pm to
Eggs can stay unrefrigerated for a month or more actually. Couple of days are def fine! Don't wash with soap. Just wash lightly with water to get trash off. Eggs have a natural protective coating that protects from harmful Bactria like salmonella. Our good il FDA requires eggs be washed in chemicals that remove that coating. Hence the salmonella scare. In Europe there is no washing and no refrigeration of eggs.
Posted by ADLSUNSU
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2007
3518 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 2:17 pm to
youtube has some really helpful videos

set up a big water reservoir, cause they do need water.

diatomaceous earth is good to sprinkle on the crap to keep mites away, and some lime will keep it from stinking

marigolds (ithink) will make the yoke more orange

and length of day effects laying, so in winter you can put a light on a timer to extend the day
Posted by CoastieGM
Member since Aug 2012
3185 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 2:49 pm to
quote:

Is there any kind of timeline on how long they lay?
Depends upon the breed, but generally it's related to hours of daylight. 12-14 hrs per day generates maximum egg production. Need a minimum of 8 hrs for any egg production.

They lay in declining cycles that are interrupted by molts.



Eliminate most stressors, and a good hen will lay well for 4-5 years.

Example of Stressors: Roosters, overcrowding, any period of time without water, not feeding on a regular schedule, harassment from dogs or other predators, lack of trees or some kind of cover (they're just domesticated jungle fowl)

Feed consumption is anywhere from 2.0 to 5.5 oz per bird per day. Depends on what they get from foraging, temperature, size of bird. But don't overfeed. Feed in the morning and their feeder should be empty by the end of the day.

Feed a 50/50 mix of "layer" with "scratch" feeds. Adjust according to foraging and yolk appearance...more foraging=less scratch. Less foraging = more scratch.

Large breed birds=200 eggs/yr
Commercial layers=270 eggs/yr

They'll lay year round if you have a light in their coop with a timer. Ensure redundancy (2 lights on 2 timers for when something fails (a sudden change in light hours can induce a molt and cause egg production to cease for 2 months).

I have egg production down to a science, so just let me know if you have any questions

(my oldest son sold organic eggs from 7th-12th grade with a flock of 15-20 hens...it paid for his first 3 semesters of college.)

Posted by Alahunter
Member since Jan 2008
90739 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 3:44 pm to
There's also, not much better fertilizer than chicken shite.
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48859 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 3:54 pm to
Great information. Where would I buy chicks around Baton Rouge? What breeds should I look for and what breeds should I avoid? Are there some that do better in the south versus say the Midwest?

Also what about bedding in the coop? What is used for that and where to buy? Feed store? Self feeders and waterers where to find them?
This post was edited on 5/10/14 at 3:56 pm
Posted by ZacAttack
The Land Mass
Member since Oct 2012
6416 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 3:55 pm to
Lots of good info in here already, I'll add a few things. If you don't wash the eggs, they will last a really long time without putting them in the fridge. In class I'd take fresh eggs and put them on the counter and eat them at the end of the semester, they don't taste the best but nothing wrong with them. Once washed they have to go in cold storage. Hens of different breeds will be fine together. You will have problems with different ages/sizes. I would recommend an all in, all out approach. Once the chickens you have stop peak laying (2-3 years of age) replace them all with new chicks. To reduce a lot of stress on your hens, never get a rooster. A good layer pellet is all you need for feed, but if you want really good colored yolks feed some corn mixed in, about 1/3 of total feed. I'd get whole kernel corn, it's cheaper than cracked corn, will cut down on the amount they eat and is just as effective. With a dozen hens you'll get around 9 eggs a day on average. Hope that helps, I have degrees in this shite so ask away.
Posted by Sir Drinksalot
Member since Aug 2005
16745 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 4:01 pm to
Here's something no one tells you. They will claw and rake the grass in the tractor. Make lots of mud and kill grass. You have to move it a lot. You can let them free range (they will stay close to the coop and still go inside it at night), which is better for your grass...but they will go for the shade and shite EVERYWHERE. (Under your patio). They are mean as hell but incredible pest control.

A guy I know spent a week in the icu from inhaling dried chicken shite. You have to be careful.
This post was edited on 5/10/14 at 4:03 pm
Posted by Alahunter
Member since Jan 2008
90739 posts
Posted on 5/10/14 at 4:12 pm to
quote:

What breeds should I look for and what breeds should I avoid


White leghorns will lay the white large eggs you find in stores. Rhode Island Reds are a good breed that will lay medium to large brown eggs. I had some Ancona's, they're black with white specks and lay white medium sized eggs.
first pageprev pagePage 2 of 4Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram