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Started By
Message
Resurrecting A 1969 9.5 hp Sea Horse...Advice needed (pic heavy thread)
Posted on 4/9/18 at 6:48 am
Posted on 4/9/18 at 6:48 am
I was recently given a 1969 Sea Horse outboard model # 9r-69s.
It's been in a shed for about 30 years. Under the cowling it is in pretty good shape. I checked the compression and got about 60 lbs of compression from each cylinder. From what I've read about these motors around 65 lbs of compression is normal, so I'm a bit low. I changed the spark plugs and lower unit lube. She cranked on the 3rd pull. The problem is it won't stay running for more than 10 or 15 seconds unless I keep pumping the fuel bulb. The first thing I did was make sure I had the fuel tank vent open, it was, and i even removed the cap just to be sure. I am using old fuel line so I think my first step will be replacing it in case the lining is pinched.
This is where I am wondering what to do next if that fails. Would you replace the whole fuel pump or get a rebuild kit? Could it be a problem with the carburetor? The motor sounds great (no missing or stuttering) as long as I am pumping the fuel bulb. I have never messed with one of these before so any advice on getting it in tip top shape is welcome.
No, I will not be using this as a kicker to the tohatsu lol. I plan on putting it on a 12 ft jon boat for a light weight, portable hunting boat. The engine only weighs about 50 lbs.
You and your Johnson
EDIT: they have a knob to adjust it from rich to lean. Could this be part of the problem?
It's been in a shed for about 30 years. Under the cowling it is in pretty good shape. I checked the compression and got about 60 lbs of compression from each cylinder. From what I've read about these motors around 65 lbs of compression is normal, so I'm a bit low. I changed the spark plugs and lower unit lube. She cranked on the 3rd pull. The problem is it won't stay running for more than 10 or 15 seconds unless I keep pumping the fuel bulb. The first thing I did was make sure I had the fuel tank vent open, it was, and i even removed the cap just to be sure. I am using old fuel line so I think my first step will be replacing it in case the lining is pinched.
This is where I am wondering what to do next if that fails. Would you replace the whole fuel pump or get a rebuild kit? Could it be a problem with the carburetor? The motor sounds great (no missing or stuttering) as long as I am pumping the fuel bulb. I have never messed with one of these before so any advice on getting it in tip top shape is welcome.
No, I will not be using this as a kicker to the tohatsu lol. I plan on putting it on a 12 ft jon boat for a light weight, portable hunting boat. The engine only weighs about 50 lbs.
You and your Johnson
EDIT: they have a knob to adjust it from rich to lean. Could this be part of the problem?
This post was edited on 4/9/18 at 7:07 am
13
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:13 am to celltech1981
If it will run while you pump the primer bulb, most likely your fuel pump is bad. These have a diaphragm pump in them. When the rubber in the pump deteriorates, it doesn't pump anymore. I'd start there.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:14 am to celltech1981
I would check/replace all of the fuel hoses. That is an easy fix/check. Then dive into the carb.
Cool motor.
Cool motor.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:37 am to celltech1981
As previously said replace fuel pump, all hoses, and clean the carb(s). Those were great running little motors and should plane out a 14ft boat easily.
Also be sure and get you a sack full of shear pins to keep in the boat, ya gonna need them.
Also be sure and get you a sack full of shear pins to keep in the boat, ya gonna need them.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:39 am to celltech1981
I tuned up our 76 9.9 seahorse a couple years ago after it was having a similar issue, it turned out to be the fuel lines, but you’re on the right track.
You’re gonna want to change the water pump next. It likely doesn’t have a tell-tale, unless someone drilled and tapped one, so changing the water pump can be stressful. In my experience these older seahorses don’t get good water flow on muffs, run it in a tub if you can. It takes some time to learn what normal flow looks like from the blubber hole in the back.
Obviously clean the carb if you still have trouble with it. Congrats, these are fun simple little motors that are generally bulletproof. Ours has probably sucked about a ton of sand in its lifetime and actually sat at the bottom of a river for a week, still running like a top.
You’re gonna want to change the water pump next. It likely doesn’t have a tell-tale, unless someone drilled and tapped one, so changing the water pump can be stressful. In my experience these older seahorses don’t get good water flow on muffs, run it in a tub if you can. It takes some time to learn what normal flow looks like from the blubber hole in the back.
Obviously clean the carb if you still have trouble with it. Congrats, these are fun simple little motors that are generally bulletproof. Ours has probably sucked about a ton of sand in its lifetime and actually sat at the bottom of a river for a week, still running like a top.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:39 am to celltech1981
You cannot kill that motor. I can't tell you how many times I ran one without oil and all I did was spray WD40 into the cylinders and worked it through. Would start back up like a champ. Replace the diaphragm fuel pump.
One of the all time best motors made
One of the all time best motors made
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:43 am to celltech1981
How much for the tohatsu
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:57 am to celltech1981
I have that exact motor except I think mine's a 1972 model. Made many a duck hunt with that little thing. 
When you get her going, the first thing I'd do is invest in some extra sheer pins. Trust me on this!
When you get her going, the first thing I'd do is invest in some extra sheer pins. Trust me on this!
This post was edited on 4/9/18 at 8:00 am
Posted on 4/9/18 at 7:59 am to Tiger 79
quote:
Replace the diaphragm fuel pump.
Getting a pump rebuild kit costs about 14 bucks. Replacing the pump costs about 100 bucks. Would rebuilding it likely fix it or just go straight to getting a new pump?
Thanks
Posted on 4/9/18 at 8:05 am to celltech1981
quote:
Would rebuilding it likely fix it or just go straight to getting a new pump?
They are pretty simple to rebuild. I'd go that route.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 8:12 am to REB BEER
quote:
When you get her going, the first thing I'd do is invest in some extra sheer pins. Trust me on this!
I have the shear pin in my pocket right now. Going get a few to duct tape to the tiller handle.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 8:28 am to celltech1981
Go here and read to your heart's content, this guy has written the bible on these older johnsons. Saved me a ton of headaches.
Leeroy's ramblings
Leeroy's ramblings
Posted on 4/9/18 at 9:21 am to ducksnbass
quote:
it doesn't pump anymore. I'd start there.
i just ordered a rebuild kit for 12 bucks. hopefully I don't have to replace the whole thing. Thanks
Posted on 4/9/18 at 9:33 am to celltech1981
I have in a few years older that I haven't worked on yet. I think you can use a lawnmower fuel pump from a Briggs and Stratton possibly unless I just dreamed that.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 10:40 am to REB BEER
quote:
When you get her going, the first thing I'd do is invest in some extra sheer pins. Trust me on this!
Kept the shear pins in an old metal Bandaid box in the tackle box.
Rebuilding pump isn't hard, didn't know your skill set.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 10:58 am to Tiger 79
quote:
didn't know your skill set.
I can usually figure stuff out. I've never done this before but I'm pretty handy, worked on a farm for years and was always repairing shite.
Should I go ahead and rebuild the carb or wait and see if it runs right?
Posted on 4/9/18 at 11:30 am to celltech1981
Make sure you don't over tighten that screen in the center of the fuel pump, it will crack the housing.
As long as carb was empty it'll be good to go.
Definitely replace water pump impeller before running much.
Great outboard, practically bulletproof.
As long as carb was empty it'll be good to go.
Definitely replace water pump impeller before running much.
Great outboard, practically bulletproof.
Posted on 4/9/18 at 11:31 am to Tiger 79
quote:
Kept the shear pins in an old metal Bandaid box in the tackle box.
I broke 1 at the prairie in Manchac WMA and had to paddle all the way back to the landing north of Manchac Pass. I went and bought about 10 of them after that and put them in the boat, in my ammo box, blind bag, and anywhere else I could think of. I didn't want to ever be without 1 again!
Posted on 4/9/18 at 11:39 am to GreasemonkeyJr
quote:
Definitely replace water pump impeller before running much.
Just ordered one from amazon. It seems to be pissing fine but that's a cheap part to avoid a future headache/stranding. Thanks
Posted on 4/9/18 at 11:50 am to celltech1981
How was that home brew?
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