Reloading question 270wsm 300wsm

You would be able to use the same press, but you would have to get different dies.

So it doesn't really matter from the re loading aspect it seems. If I keep the 270wsm it would be for hunting only...and probably the one I lend out to friends. I was just thinking long term if I ever stepped up to the 300wm/wsm range if there was any benefit with re loading wsm already.

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Well you'd already have powder and primers

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So do the 2 wsm rounds take the same powders and dies vs the win mag?

Just day dreaming lol. I have the 270 and one day I may be in the market for a 300 wsm or wm and was looking to see if having a wsm round already would benefit the 300 wsm any.

So it does seem having a 270wsm could be in the pro column for when im looking at the 300s

NOLAGT,
Welcome (potentially) to the wonderful world of handloading/reloading. Yes, if you already handload for the 270 WSM and add the 300 WSM to the party, there are a lot of tools that would be used for both calibers, including:
Press and case holder (press is prob the single most expensive tool)
Primers
Priming tool and primer case holder
Scales (depending on type, this would be your 1st or 2nd most expensive tool).
Dial calipers
Handloading books
Powder(s). There are a lot of powders that are commonly used in both the 270 and 300 WSM, but you wouldn't know for sure w/ your guns until you started load development.
Trimming tool, depending on type.
Case mouth chamfer tool

Items that would be different:
Brass (although a knowledgable handloader could make 270 WSM to 300 WSM and vice versa). If you've saved your shot 270 Win you're off to a good start already. Brass will prob be your 3rd most expensive item.
?Powder (see above)
Dies (each caliber will use different dies. New dies cost $30-$60 or more/caliber)
Trimming tool, depending on type.

If I had a 270 WSM, my main reason to handload would be to assure myself longterm of easily available ammo. I'm not sure yet which (or any) of the WSM's will be here long term. Buy #100 pieces of brass and you'll have a lifetime supply. I tell new handloaders NOT to expect to save money by handloading because you'll find themselves shooting more. Keep us updated. I'll gladly share anything I know!

I hand load my 270wsm Abolt

I would have to look at my load recipe and COAL to let you know what works in my gun, but it might not work in yours. I use RL19 powder in mine.

Depending on the brass, it will not last a lifetime. You have to develop the load which means shooting 3 shot groups minimum with different powder weights in half grain increments. Next you have to play with the bullet seating. Which is more 3 shot minimum groups until you find the one your gun likes.

Some Federal cases wont hold a primer anymore after 4-5 shots in my experience and that brass has to be thrown away.

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hrough the years, I've refined my load development process so that I don't shoot nearly as many rounds as I used to. I don't shoot 3 shot groups until the final stages. I pick the ONE bullet I'm going to use and load it w/ 2-3 appropriate powders. I don't try different primers. Very rarely do I play w/ bullet seating depth. I usually have a final load after shooting <25 rounds.

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Explain please.

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You're right to trash brass w/ loose primer pockets. I've not personally used Fed brass, but it's apparently known for developing loose primer pockets. Loose primer pockets after only 4-5 loads would suggest either poor quality brass or a load generating excessive pressures. When I started handloading i used either Rem or Win brass. A few years ago I started loading for a 6 Rem BR handgun that required Lapua brass. That stuff is GOOD. Now I find myself using more Lapua. Norma brass also has a really good reputation.

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Lapua only makes Military and BR calibers. Not many hunting calibers. Norma is expensive.

I am loading under a full grain from book max and 4-5 shots is all I could get with Federal. Winchester has lasted longer.

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I'm sure you're aware of it, but even loads less than book max can still have high pressures. Rarely my personal loads exceed the max load (at least in one of my handloading book, but not all); sometimes they're less than the max. It depends on a lot of variables.

ETA: How many loads are you getting from Win brass?

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I dont have a chronograph. I thought about getting one, but I figured whats on paper will tell me when i find a good load. It would probably be ideal

Also I loaded .5 to 1 gr over book max before I saw pressure signs on the case, which was flattened primers and some bolt face on the rear of the case. I gradually worked up to that inspecting each case starting at the minimum book rec.

I never loaded any brass until failure so I dont know. I do know that the primer pockets hold up better in Winchester and Rem over Federal.

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As far as my load development, I load up 5-6 rounds in 1/2 grain increments using the same bullet, but usually 1-2 powders. I chronograph the loads and watch pressure signs closely. If accuracy looks promising, I then shoot 3 shot groups w/ the loads that meet my velocity goal. It's worked pretty well and has saved me lots of time and energy.

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So you only load 5 or 6 rounds at like
60.0
60.5
61.0
61.5
62.0 and then only use the velocity you like before getting a group?

I will eventually get a chrono to help shoot long range at 500yds or so.

I usually load about 20 bullets. 2 foulers and 6 3 shot groups in .5 gr increments. I dont care what the groups look like. I choose the 3 groups that impact the paper at the same point and use the load in the middle. I fine tune the group with bullet seating and I usually have a deceent load. I have no idea how fast or slow its travelling so unless I shot out to 500 I would never know what the drop is.