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High Mileage Duramax Maintenance
Posted on 7/7/21 at 7:42 am
Posted on 7/7/21 at 7:42 am
I bought a 2013 Duramax LML with 160k miles. It's my first diesel and I'm going to do my first maintenance on it.
Without having records of the previous service history, what would you change?
Without having records of the previous service history, what would you change?
7
Posted on 7/7/21 at 8:08 am to DownSouthDave
Fluids and belt. Check all hoses and battery terminals.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 8:19 am to DownSouthDave
Fuel filter and DON'T over tighten it.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 8:49 am to DownSouthDave
Same thing I do at 100k for all vehicles:
Fluids
Belts
Hoses
Water pump
Filters
Clean out all rain gullies and drains
Check brakes
Wipers
And either detail it or have it completely detailed.
Only use oem or better parts.
At 250k miles we are leaving for Montana in a few days.
Eta: buy a 5 gallon bucket of delo oil
Fluids
Belts
Hoses
Water pump
Filters
Clean out all rain gullies and drains
Check brakes
Wipers
And either detail it or have it completely detailed.
Only use oem or better parts.
At 250k miles we are leaving for Montana in a few days.
Eta: buy a 5 gallon bucket of delo oil
This post was edited on 7/7/21 at 9:21 am
Posted on 7/7/21 at 9:22 am to DownSouthDave
Break out the owners manual and do everything listed prior to and at 160k miles.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 11:45 am to DownSouthDave
If you want to grenade the transmission change the fluid.
If you have the tranny serviced have the dealer do so they own the work but I wouldn’t touch it.
It’s worth a google search
If you have the tranny serviced have the dealer do so they own the work but I wouldn’t touch it.
It’s worth a google search
Posted on 7/7/21 at 12:10 pm to DownSouthDave
Go through everything on the scheduled maintenance at that interval. The biggest thing that stands out would be transmission service. I did my first one at 100K and will do the 2nd service around that same mileage
Posted on 7/7/21 at 1:28 pm to Cracker
quote:
If you want to grenade the transmission change the fluid.
Jesus christ. I'm tired of this myth.
If you won't power flush it you're fine.
Just do a drain and fill.
Measure the fluid that comes out exactly. Put exactly that back in.
To figure out hoe many times to do it to increase purity to all new, calculate what percentage you are taking out each time.
For example:
20 quarts total, only 4 drained out, 20% new fluid.
Run again drain again. 4 out, only 3.2 was old fluid. So you are now at 36% new fluid.
Repeat until you're in the 90%
<--- never had a transmission failure in 2 million miles of vehicles. Even driving all of them like an absolute asshat.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 1:47 pm to X123F45
quote:
20 quarts total, only 4 drained out, 20% new fluid.
Run again drain again. 4 out, only 3.2 was old fluid. So you are now at 36% new fluid.
Repeat until you're in the 90%
That would take 11 rounds to get to 90% on those numbers. I haven't done it before, so are those numbers accurate?
Posted on 7/7/21 at 2:13 pm to Hermit Crab
No. I don't know the capacity. I just do a drain and fill a few times every 50k.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 10:38 pm to DownSouthDave
Oil and Filter:
Mobil 1 Delvac 5w40 full syn
Mobil M1-303 filter
Transmission:
"Allison" spin on filter
I recommend dropping the pan and installing new AC Delco pan filter and a filter lock
several good fluid options
1st choice CITGO QUATRASYN TE-295 (recommeded by best Allison Trans builder "MikeL")
2nd Castrol Transynd TE295 rated
3rd Dura Drive HD ~ New more stringent 668 rating (but hasn't been out long enough for me to use)
Transfer Case?:
Change Fluid...I recommend Merchant Automotive's Performance transfer case fluid. (holds 2 quarts)
try to measure what comes out and if a fair amount less than 2 qts. comes out you may have a pump rub issue in which case M.A. also sells pump rub repair kits
Front and rear differential fluids:
Change both with 75w90 full synthetic
Front 1.5-2qts
Rear 3.75qts ~4
Fuel Filter:
AC Delco tp3018(DO NOT use after market replacements
Air Filter:
Factory AC Delco 25945274 works best
-start running doses of either Lucas fuel inector cleaner or the silver jug of Power Service Diesel Kleen
-I would say water pump, but its only going to go out when its ready...and 2006 on up were pretty reliable...Labor is crazy high to replace a water pump that may still be good
-Change belts
-check Hoses
-change Power steering fluid
-flush brake fluid:use DOT4
-check front hub bearings
Coolant:
Remember to drain and fill using a 50/50Dexcool and water or buy it premixed...there is a bleed screw at front of engine to burp the air out of the system
technically 6 gallons and a quart needed
*If you have a driveline clunk the driveshaft splines are dry and need specifically- High Temperature Special Lubricant GM# 19257121
I'll try to add more info as I remember ...
I still own a 2001 LB7 12 second crew cab
had but traded a 2011 LML(deleted due to constant EGR problems)
and now drive a 2020 L5P Denali
all are/were 4wd
Mobil 1 Delvac 5w40 full syn
Mobil M1-303 filter
Transmission:
"Allison" spin on filter
I recommend dropping the pan and installing new AC Delco pan filter and a filter lock
several good fluid options
1st choice CITGO QUATRASYN TE-295 (recommeded by best Allison Trans builder "MikeL")
2nd Castrol Transynd TE295 rated
3rd Dura Drive HD ~ New more stringent 668 rating (but hasn't been out long enough for me to use)
Transfer Case?:
Change Fluid...I recommend Merchant Automotive's Performance transfer case fluid. (holds 2 quarts)
try to measure what comes out and if a fair amount less than 2 qts. comes out you may have a pump rub issue in which case M.A. also sells pump rub repair kits
Front and rear differential fluids:
Change both with 75w90 full synthetic
Front 1.5-2qts
Rear 3.75qts ~4
Fuel Filter:
AC Delco tp3018(DO NOT use after market replacements
Air Filter:
Factory AC Delco 25945274 works best
-start running doses of either Lucas fuel inector cleaner or the silver jug of Power Service Diesel Kleen
-I would say water pump, but its only going to go out when its ready...and 2006 on up were pretty reliable...Labor is crazy high to replace a water pump that may still be good
-Change belts
-check Hoses
-change Power steering fluid
-flush brake fluid:use DOT4
-check front hub bearings
Coolant:
Remember to drain and fill using a 50/50Dexcool and water or buy it premixed...there is a bleed screw at front of engine to burp the air out of the system
technically 6 gallons and a quart needed
*If you have a driveline clunk the driveshaft splines are dry and need specifically- High Temperature Special Lubricant GM# 19257121
I'll try to add more info as I remember ...
I still own a 2001 LB7 12 second crew cab
had but traded a 2011 LML(deleted due to constant EGR problems)
and now drive a 2020 L5P Denali
all are/were 4wd
This post was edited on 7/7/21 at 10:53 pm
Posted on 7/7/21 at 10:58 pm to X123F45
quote:
If you won't power flush it you're fine.
Just do a drain and fill.
Measure the fluid that comes out exactly. Put exactly that back in.
Here is a LINK to one of the methods that we in the duramax world have used for a long time.
It involves dropping the pan, changing the filter, replacing the pan, refilling and then starting truck with a disconnected line and running the fluid out into a bucket while pouring new fluid in until the fluid pumping out into pail is clean.
That is if you want to get to 100% synthetic right away
This post was edited on 7/7/21 at 11:03 pm
Posted on 7/8/21 at 10:21 pm to Pepperidge
quote:
disconnected line and running the fluid out into a bucket while pouring new fluid in until the fluid pumping out into pail is clean.
I was doing this once with an aisin trans and gave the engine a tiny rev.
The result pressure blew the hose out of the bucket and then sprayed transmission fluid on everything within 30ft like a rogue fire hose.
Posted on 7/9/21 at 9:15 am to X123F45
Thanks for the info in here, I appreciate it.
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