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Started By
Message
Carb gurus... Can't stop overflow leak on 4 wheeler.
Posted on 6/19/24 at 8:34 pm
Posted on 6/19/24 at 8:34 pm
2014 Polaris Sportsman 90
Runs like a dream. Little cold natured, but I can live with that. But I can't stop the gas dripping from the overflow tube. I know it's a float/seat issue, but have tried it ALL.
I've cleaned the stock carb, polished the seat with a Q tip on a drill and some Brasso polish.
I've replaced the float, the needle jet 3 times, etc
Before reinstalling each time, I have a clean piece of fuel line I hook to the carb and turn it upside down and blow through to make sure the valve seats. I've played with it many times and make sure no air can pass. Trick I've used for years.
But every damn time I put it back on bike and turn petcock on, it'll be good for 30min to an hour .....then I come outside to a gas spot on concrete. Shake bike, and get a good dribble from the overflow.
I've had the carb off and on more than a dozen times. This bitch has me stumped.
Vent lines are clear, not building pressure...
What am I missing??
Runs like a dream. Little cold natured, but I can live with that. But I can't stop the gas dripping from the overflow tube. I know it's a float/seat issue, but have tried it ALL.
I've cleaned the stock carb, polished the seat with a Q tip on a drill and some Brasso polish.
I've replaced the float, the needle jet 3 times, etc
Before reinstalling each time, I have a clean piece of fuel line I hook to the carb and turn it upside down and blow through to make sure the valve seats. I've played with it many times and make sure no air can pass. Trick I've used for years.
But every damn time I put it back on bike and turn petcock on, it'll be good for 30min to an hour .....then I come outside to a gas spot on concrete. Shake bike, and get a good dribble from the overflow.
I've had the carb off and on more than a dozen times. This bitch has me stumped.
Vent lines are clear, not building pressure...
What am I missing??
8
Posted on 6/19/24 at 8:51 pm to bootlegger
Posted on 6/19/24 at 9:04 pm to highcotton2
Have tried 2 already. Can't get either to tune as well as the stock one as far as running/idling. Even swapped the stock jets into the cheap carbs
Posted on 6/19/24 at 9:18 pm to bootlegger
Tank vent have a dirt dobber nest in it?
Edit, sorry just saw you said tank vent was clear.
Edit, sorry just saw you said tank vent was clear.
This post was edited on 6/19/24 at 9:20 pm
Posted on 6/19/24 at 9:28 pm to Tangineck
I've even left the fuel cap loose to make sure.
I'm at my wits end with this thing. At this point it's more about conquering this thing and winning
I'm at my wits end with this thing. At this point it's more about conquering this thing and winning
This post was edited on 6/19/24 at 9:29 pm
Posted on 6/19/24 at 9:47 pm to bootlegger
"turn the petcock on". Consider leaving it closed except when in operation. My snapper lawn mower has a gravity feed to carborator. After several years, the gas tank would drain into the crankcase via the carb. Warming the engine produced lots of black smoke from the contaminated oil. I got a 1/4 inch brass valve installed on the tank outlet hose and it works fine. Just close valve when mower not in use
Posted on 6/19/24 at 9:52 pm to bootlegger
With the carb off did you blow through the fuel line to make sure the needle valve was sealing?
Did you replace the needle valve?
Did you replace the seat for the needle valve? The seat usually has an o-ring.
Did you replace the float? The float tabs may need adjusting to make sure the needle valve actually seals off.
Did you replace any of these parts with non-OEM parts?
Did you replace the needle valve?
Did you replace the seat for the needle valve? The seat usually has an o-ring.
Did you replace the float? The float tabs may need adjusting to make sure the needle valve actually seals off.
Did you replace any of these parts with non-OEM parts?
Posted on 6/19/24 at 9:57 pm to bootlegger
Couple of things come to mind. Any chance the float is out of adjustment? When you flip it over and blow into the fuel inlet, gravity is closing the float. That is not the case when the carb is upright with fuel controlling the float height. Also when you changed the needle, was it an OEM or knockoff? I would get hold of a service manual and see if there is a measurement for the float height. If its correct and if available, I would then change the needle and seat with OEM carb or polaris parts. Try and fix the OEM carb and not go down the $25 Amazon carb. rabbit hole. One more thing, check to make sure the float is air tight.
This post was edited on 6/19/24 at 9:59 pm
Posted on 6/19/24 at 10:05 pm to bootlegger
When you talk about replacing the needle jet what exactly are you talking about? You replaced the needle and the needle seat? If it has a new needle, float and needle seat and it still overflows something has to be binding the float I would think. Did the new carbs overflow or just not run good?
Posted on 6/20/24 at 6:30 am to highcotton2
Stop buying chinese carbs. They have a 90% failure rate.
Silly question, is your carb drain stripped or not have all of the orings
Silly question, is your carb drain stripped or not have all of the orings
Posted on 6/20/24 at 7:02 am to bootlegger
The seat is removable and has an oring on it.
Replace the oring. Very common
Replace the oring. Very common
Posted on 6/20/24 at 7:12 am to Catahoula20LSU
Yeah, I have a short piece of clean fuel line I use to blow air and make sure the needle seats properly.
Have changed and adjusted the float several times.
The Chinese carbs ran like shite, BUT didn't overflow.
Parts were replaced with Amazon crap...
The only thing that's puzzled me is the stock (SunWorld) carb did not have a removable brass seat for the float needle valve. The other two cheapos did. That's why I did the ole polish on a Q tip trick. But no matter how I tinkered with it, it would still seal air tight. That's why it's boggling me that it still overflows. Not immediately, but only after an hour or so of sitting.
And once it starts leaking, if I shake the bike, it'll pour out for a few seconds before going back to a slow drip. Definitely seems to be float allowing overflow
Have changed and adjusted the float several times.
The Chinese carbs ran like shite, BUT didn't overflow.
Parts were replaced with Amazon crap...
The only thing that's puzzled me is the stock (SunWorld) carb did not have a removable brass seat for the float needle valve. The other two cheapos did. That's why I did the ole polish on a Q tip trick. But no matter how I tinkered with it, it would still seal air tight. That's why it's boggling me that it still overflows. Not immediately, but only after an hour or so of sitting.
And once it starts leaking, if I shake the bike, it'll pour out for a few seconds before going back to a slow drip. Definitely seems to be float allowing overflow
This post was edited on 6/20/24 at 7:15 am
Posted on 6/20/24 at 7:13 am to X123F45
quote:
Stop buying chinese carbs. They have a 90% failure rate.
I guess I have been lucky. Have two on Honda Foreman’s that are both about 5 years old. Payed $30 apiece for them. It was a cheaper than a kit from Honda.
Posted on 6/20/24 at 7:25 am to bootlegger
I don't see on any parts diagram where there is an O ring for the needle valve to seat to. Also, if there were and it were missing, I wouldn't think it would seal air tight when I give it the "air test"
This post was edited on 6/20/24 at 7:26 am
Posted on 6/20/24 at 8:03 am to highcotton2
quote:
I guess I have been lucky. Have two on Honda Foreman’s that are both about 5 years old. Payed $30 apiece for them. It was a cheaper than a kit from Honda.
Same here. I've bought several off of Amazon over the years. I've never had an issue.
Posted on 6/20/24 at 8:19 am to Goldensammy
I think I'm about to try another one. Third time's a charm, right?
Posted on 6/20/24 at 8:24 am to bootlegger
My Yamaha TTR 225’s stock carb did this. It started leaking and I cleaned it, put it back together, installed it and within a day it started leaking. I clean3d it again and same thing. Ok, got the cheap Chinese carb and no leak. After a couple of weeks, it started leaking. Cleaned it and leaking again. This is the only carb on any bike I’ve owned that did this. After years of awesome run time, finally the headache started.
I am about to go back with the original, new seat, new needle valve, etc. Fingers crossed. Seems like one of the mysteries of dirt bike or 4 wheeler ownership.
I am about to go back with the original, new seat, new needle valve, etc. Fingers crossed. Seems like one of the mysteries of dirt bike or 4 wheeler ownership.
Posted on 6/20/24 at 9:56 am to X123F45
quote:
Stop buying chinese carbs. They have a 90% failure rate.
This… The only time I replace an oem carb with an aftermarket is when they will not pay for oem or if they’re discontinued. In the event I go with an aftermarket I will basically just use the body of the aftermarket then swap the oem parts over. Particularly the diaphragm.
Posted on 6/20/24 at 10:08 am to Cypressknee
quote:
This… The only time I replace an oem carb with an aftermarket is when they will not pay for oem or if they’re discontinued.
Yea if I was working on someone else’s stuff and they were paying for it I would put a $300 oem carb on it also.
Posted on 6/20/24 at 10:26 am to highcotton2
OEM carb for this thing is around $500. That's what I paid for the whole damned bike haha
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