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Started By
Message
Bilge pump and transducer mount on Aluminum hull
Posted on 8/10/20 at 12:10 pm
Posted on 8/10/20 at 12:10 pm
I am redoing my 1860 riveted duck boat (circa 1979 and nary a leaking rivet and weighs 300 pounds less than a new welded version) and I have a bunch of holes in the transom where I have mounted transducers over the years and the boat never had a bilge pump plate so I JB weld the bilge pump to the hull but its a pain to replace.
I am thinking about sealing all of the holes in the transom with 5200 adhesive (the transom is sound as the pound...since 1979...they don't build a welded boat today that will still be this solid in 41 years) and then gluing an aluminum or starboard plat on the transom to mount transducers. I have had no luck at all with all of the various miracle epoxies that are supposed to stick starboard to anything....but I have read and seen people do it with 5200 and never have a problem. Anyone ever do it and have it work?
Also considering building a bracket consisting of two layers of 1/4 inch al plate, one layer overlapping the other, and mounting the bilge pump on another 1/4 inch plate that would slide between the upper plate on the bracket and the hull....maybe add a set screw to hold it in place but I would bet it would stay put without anything. I would either glue the bracket to the hull with 5200 or JB Weld. Anyone have any luck getting al to stick to al with 5200?? I know you can't get it off fiberglass but never tried it on al other than to seal penetrations.
I am thinking about sealing all of the holes in the transom with 5200 adhesive (the transom is sound as the pound...since 1979...they don't build a welded boat today that will still be this solid in 41 years) and then gluing an aluminum or starboard plat on the transom to mount transducers. I have had no luck at all with all of the various miracle epoxies that are supposed to stick starboard to anything....but I have read and seen people do it with 5200 and never have a problem. Anyone ever do it and have it work?
Also considering building a bracket consisting of two layers of 1/4 inch al plate, one layer overlapping the other, and mounting the bilge pump on another 1/4 inch plate that would slide between the upper plate on the bracket and the hull....maybe add a set screw to hold it in place but I would bet it would stay put without anything. I would either glue the bracket to the hull with 5200 or JB Weld. Anyone have any luck getting al to stick to al with 5200?? I know you can't get it off fiberglass but never tried it on al other than to seal penetrations.
4
Posted on 8/10/20 at 12:50 pm to Gtmodawg
On my metal boats I use an L-shaped piece of metal that the bilge screws to and then screw the upper piece to a rib holding the pump at the floor level. Unscrew from the rib to change out the pump when needed.
Posted on 8/10/20 at 12:59 pm to Duck Island
quote:
On my metal boats I use an L-shaped piece of metal that the bilge screws to and then screw the upper piece to a rib holding the pump at the floor level. Unscrew from the rib to change out the pump when needed.
I have though about that. Riveting or bolting a piece of sheet aluminum to a piece of angle al and bolting the angle to the bolster that ties to the transom to the ribs. That would work also....good idea. I may go that route. I usually just glue em down with JB weld but they fail so often it is a pain to replace them this way...I have done it with ones I know I can buy more of and simply glued the clip down and snapped the pump into it but that is still a pain. I think you are on to something.
Any similar ideas about the transducer?
Posted on 8/10/20 at 1:05 pm to Gtmodawg
5200 works well but eventually it will peel. Its not really intended to work as glue, more as a gasket. JB weld lasts a couple months at most.
The best way to mount or patch anything under the waterline is to fasten it to the hull with bolts and put 5200 in between. Fashion a plate of aluminum or starboard bigger than what you want sealed, drill holes through plate and hull around area to be sealed, slather 5200 around entire edge and in bolt holes, install bolts finger tight or just so 5200 begins to squeeze out around edges, give an hour or so to set up, then tighten bolts compressing the 5200 to seal.
The best way to mount or patch anything under the waterline is to fasten it to the hull with bolts and put 5200 in between. Fashion a plate of aluminum or starboard bigger than what you want sealed, drill holes through plate and hull around area to be sealed, slather 5200 around entire edge and in bolt holes, install bolts finger tight or just so 5200 begins to squeeze out around edges, give an hour or so to set up, then tighten bolts compressing the 5200 to seal.
Posted on 8/10/20 at 1:12 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:
5200 works well but eventually it will peel. Its not really intended to work as glue, more as a gasket. JB weld lasts a couple months at most.
The best way to mount or patch anything under the waterline is to fasten it to the hull with bolts and put 5200 in between. Fashion a plate of aluminum or starboard bigger than what you want sealed, drill holes through plate and hull around area to be sealed, slather 5200 around entire edge and in bolt holes, install bolts finger tight or just so 5200 begins to squeeze out around edges, give an hour or so to set up, then tighten bolts compressing the 5200 to seal.
I think thats the route I am going to take. I will seal all of the current holes unless there are 4 I can use to mount the plate and then do exactly what you are saying. I don't plan to change sonar again but who knows what gadget they'll come up with next year I can't live without...I was in the same boat when I put the Humminbird' flasher on it in 1979...couldn't imagine having a 12 inch side screening chirp sonar on a duck boat LOL....that flasher was state of the art, along with the 8 track in the boat LOL.
Posted on 8/10/20 at 4:07 pm to Gtmodawg
Get you a rope with a weight on the end and put it in a bucket. No need to mount anywhere. Mobile Deptfinder and bilge
Posted on 8/10/20 at 5:06 pm to Higgysmalls
quote:
Get you a rope with a weight on the end and put it in a bucket. No need to mount anywhere. Mobile Deptfinder and bilge
Thats what my Daddy used to do when I was a kid except I was the weight. I didn't know it at the time but I was a side scanning down viewing bastard of a chirp sonar...and by chirping I mean screaming like a girl....
Posted on 8/10/20 at 5:10 pm to Gtmodawg
there is no such thing as a permanent leak-proof hole in an aluminum boat below the waterline. unless you weld it, it will eventually leak. keep the holes small and the 5200 will last for a while.
i have trim tabs and a transducer on my transom, mounted to stand-off brackets welded to the transom
i have trim tabs and a transducer on my transom, mounted to stand-off brackets welded to the transom
Posted on 8/10/20 at 5:38 pm to Gtmodawg
Similar to what TDTigah said I’ve thru-bolted a small starboard block (with 4200 behind it) to screw transducers to the block only. 4 SS bolts with locknuts to secure thru transom. I got fancy and routed the edges and countersunk the bolt holes. Used 3/4” block so I could use a little longer screw for the transducer.
Posted on 8/11/20 at 8:12 am to Gtmodawg
On my new boat I did not want to put holes in the transom so I used a product called stern saver. It's just a abs block with industrial waterproof 3M stick on adhesive. So far it is still holding on with a side scan transducer mounted to it. The transducer mount actually broke and the block is still stuck on the back.
Also look into a epoxy called Weld-Mount. I get it from jamestown distributors. I use AT-8040 all the time to mount studs to hang electronics in aluminum enclosures. It has a 3500 psi shear strength. I have seen 1/8" aluminum tear before the stud lets go. I also glue din rail directly to aluminum back plates with it and have yet to have it fail.
Also look into a epoxy called Weld-Mount. I get it from jamestown distributors. I use AT-8040 all the time to mount studs to hang electronics in aluminum enclosures. It has a 3500 psi shear strength. I have seen 1/8" aluminum tear before the stud lets go. I also glue din rail directly to aluminum back plates with it and have yet to have it fail.
Posted on 8/11/20 at 8:24 am to TheDrunkenTigah
If you're going to bolt it anyway, I recommend 4200. It dries quicker and does not require a nuclear bomb to remove. 5200 is for seacocks and thruhulls only IMO.
Posted on 8/11/20 at 9:30 am to Duck Island
quote:
On my metal boats I use an L-shaped piece of metal that the bilge screws to and then screw the upper piece to a rib holding the pump at the floor level. Unscrew from the rib to change out the pump when needed.
i do the same but bolt it to the transom support so its sitting right in front of the drain hole at the lowest point so it drains the boat almost completely dry
transducer holes cant be avoided, but my latest boat has small fixed trim tabs so i connect the transducer bracket there
This post was edited on 8/11/20 at 9:32 am
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