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3M 5200 and Screw Holes from an old transducer
Posted on 3/2/16 at 9:17 pm
Posted on 3/2/16 at 9:17 pm
I put a new transducer on my boat and there are four screw holes where the old one was. I want to plug them before I take the boat out again. I was told to sand around the area and fill the holes with 3M 5200. Any suggestions on this? If I use the 5200 how long should I let it dry before I put it back in the water. I have an 18 foot express. Thanks
8
Posted on 3/2/16 at 9:44 pm to voros79
Any going over the old holes other than 5200?
The 5200 would definitely work. That stuff would hold the titanic
The 5200 would definitely work. That stuff would hold the titanic
Posted on 3/2/16 at 10:12 pm to voros79
You were told correct
Scuff the edges, make sure the holes don't have any loose material and fill with 5200.
Full cure time takes around 4 days I think. I'd let it dry 12 hours or more before launching the boat. Tube should list the cure time on it.
Scuff the edges, make sure the holes don't have any loose material and fill with 5200.
Full cure time takes around 4 days I think. I'd let it dry 12 hours or more before launching the boat. Tube should list the cure time on it.
Posted on 3/2/16 at 10:18 pm to voros79
5200 is pretty good, just make sure your prep is done right. You can also open up the screw hole a little bit, clean and prep, and fill with west 105 thickened with a little 404 high density or 406 colloidal silica.
Which ever route you decide to go, make sure to take you sweet sweet time making sure that hole is prepped and ready.
Which ever route you decide to go, make sure to take you sweet sweet time making sure that hole is prepped and ready.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 7:36 am to Barf
quote:
make sure to take you sweet sweet time making sure that hole is prepped and ready.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 7:41 am to mach316
One time you'll absolutely want to go in dry.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 8:06 am to voros79
drill out the holes slightly larger
blow them out with compressed air
put a piece of tape over the inside
inject resin into the hole leaving about a 1/4 reveal on the wet side
let it cure
dab in 5200 on the wet side, let cure
this is if you don't care what it looks like
if you do, grind the gelcoat slightly on the wet side, apply a thin layer of marinetex, cover tightly with Saran Wrap and let cure
blow them out with compressed air
put a piece of tape over the inside
inject resin into the hole leaving about a 1/4 reveal on the wet side
let it cure
dab in 5200 on the wet side, let cure
this is if you don't care what it looks like
if you do, grind the gelcoat slightly on the wet side, apply a thin layer of marinetex, cover tightly with Saran Wrap and let cure
Posted on 3/3/16 at 8:21 am to voros79
In my Xpress I put 5200 in the old holes and put the screw back in the hole. I didn't sand anything. I waited about 24hrs before launching and never had an issue going on 3 years now.
I also made an aluminum mounting plate for the new transducer. 5200 behind and around the plate edges. No sanding and no leaks. Transducer mounts to the plate so I don't have to drill in the hull.
I also made an aluminum mounting plate for the new transducer. 5200 behind and around the plate edges. No sanding and no leaks. Transducer mounts to the plate so I don't have to drill in the hull.
This post was edited on 3/3/16 at 9:57 am
Posted on 3/3/16 at 8:45 am to SeaPickle
not saying your repair isn't sound but your transom could be getting wet and you'd never know it until too late. your method may work but it's not the recommended method due to risk of intrusion
Posted on 3/3/16 at 9:21 am to voros79
5200 cures underwater.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 9:22 am to voros79
Use a stern saver or star board to cover the holes after filling them and you wont need to drill though hull any longer to attach transducers.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 9:56 am to cgrand
quote:
not saying your repair isn't sound but your transom could be getting wet and you'd never know it until too late. your method may work but it's not the recommended method due to risk of intrusion
Noted
I still check from time to time and its still not leaking. Its an aluminum boat so water isnt sitting "in" the transom itself. also i didnt screw the plate to the hull. Its bonded with 5200 only
Posted on 3/3/16 at 10:01 am to voros79
you baws slacking big time
Posted on 3/3/16 at 10:09 am to meauxjeaux2
I've heard some crazy stuff about 5200, we used it all the time at the shop attaching material to fiberglass and aluminum boats.
CSB story is at the LSU Boat Shop before I started there, they took delivery of a used B.Whaler I believe it was from the CG or Navy. Anyways it had a .50 M2 mount stand on the front deck of the boat that was bolted down and also had 5200 layered on the bottom of the plate. They removed the bolts and were trying to take the plate off to no avail. They eventually had a A-Frame chain lift that they started to use to pry it off. They eventually picked up either the front half or the entire boat off the trailer, can't remember the amount of boat, before the plate ripped off taking part of the fiber glass deck with it.
TL:DR, you can pick up a boat by a .50 caliber stand mount with enough 5200 on it.
CSB story is at the LSU Boat Shop before I started there, they took delivery of a used B.Whaler I believe it was from the CG or Navy. Anyways it had a .50 M2 mount stand on the front deck of the boat that was bolted down and also had 5200 layered on the bottom of the plate. They removed the bolts and were trying to take the plate off to no avail. They eventually had a A-Frame chain lift that they started to use to pry it off. They eventually picked up either the front half or the entire boat off the trailer, can't remember the amount of boat, before the plate ripped off taking part of the fiber glass deck with it.
TL:DR, you can pick up a boat by a .50 caliber stand mount with enough 5200 on it.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 10:11 am to SeaPickle
well now if you have an aluminum boat (i'll never own anything but aluminum), then you are fine. damage by intrusion rots the transom, but you and i dont have that problem
i did the same thing you did on plates/brackets but i had them welded on
i did the same thing you did on plates/brackets but i had them welded on
Posted on 3/3/16 at 10:12 am to MadtownTiger
you have to saw it out, like with serrated piano wire or similar
Posted on 3/3/16 at 10:23 am to cgrand
quote:
you have to saw it out, like with serrated piano wire or similar
20lb power pro braid works
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