- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: 2010 Sierra 5.3 - check engine light - throttle lag (Update 1/18/24)
Posted on 9/29/23 at 4:55 pm to KemoSabe65
Posted on 9/29/23 at 4:55 pm to KemoSabe65
Changed the plugs. Throttle lag/hesitation seems to be gone but the check engine light is still on. Does it just need to be cleared or maybe another problem?
Engine purrs and growls, sounds great.
Engine purrs and growls, sounds great.
2
Posted on 9/29/23 at 6:01 pm to Korkstand
I think check engine lights stay on until cleared. You could try disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes. It will go out, but may or may not come back.
Posted on 9/29/23 at 6:14 pm to Korkstand
Man I forgot to reply, yes mine had a light with the plugs thing, either showed knock sensor or random misfires I can’t remember. You can either disconnect the battery, clear it with a tuner, or it may go away on its own after you turn the truck on and off so many times.
If you have oversized tires and got some miles on it, I never regretted buying a Diablo trinity. It lets you increase shift firmness, disable the v8 to v4 programming, check codes, clear codes, and adjust the speedometer. Plus a small boost in perceived performance with their tune.
Enjoy feeling like your truck is faster and more powerful for a bit. There’s a nice placebo effect when they are purring after some maintenance.
If you have oversized tires and got some miles on it, I never regretted buying a Diablo trinity. It lets you increase shift firmness, disable the v8 to v4 programming, check codes, clear codes, and adjust the speedometer. Plus a small boost in perceived performance with their tune.
Enjoy feeling like your truck is faster and more powerful for a bit. There’s a nice placebo effect when they are purring after some maintenance.
Posted on 9/29/23 at 8:11 pm to Korkstand
OK. Here it is.A CEL gives you the CIRCUIT that is causing the problem. So the code you got could have been the sensor, the wiring, the ground, the ECU or other faults in the system causing the problem. The easy and lazy thing is to hang a part on it. It is what you get when you go to a place like AutoZone.
Find a competent technician who has the correct OEM data and let him pin point the problem.
Find a competent technician who has the correct OEM data and let him pin point the problem.
Posted on 9/29/23 at 8:47 pm to Swazla
quote:If the truck wasn't running well I would think about doing that, but I'm a DIYer to a fault. If I think a problem requires major disassembly or the right equipment that I don't have, I'll throw in the towel and take it in. Otherwise I'm happy to throw cheap parts at it and put in some time gaining experience and knowledge.
OK. Here it is.A CEL gives you the CIRCUIT that is causing the problem. So the code you got could have been the sensor, the wiring, the ground, the ECU or other faults in the system causing the problem. The easy and lazy thing is to hang a part on it. It is what you get when you go to a place like AutoZone.
Find a competent technician who has the correct OEM data and let him pin point the problem.
And like I said, the weak acceleration started a day or two before the light came on, and the new plugs seem to have resolved the symptom so I'd expect the light to go away. If it doesn't, or if I can't get it cleared, then I'll check the wiring as best as I can. If I still can't resolve it then I'll think about taking it in.
But as it stands I've spent less than $100 and maybe 2 hours of my own labor including the time going to the store to buy the exact right length extension for that last damned plug.
Posted on 9/30/23 at 10:18 am to Korkstand
Bad plugs will give you a misfire code. A knock sensor code is a different animal. The light will probably come back on.
Knock sensors are designed to stop preignition, which is very harmful to your engine. These engines run lean mixtures and high compression and run on the verge of preignition.
Preignition is basically explosions in your combustion chamber. The air fuel mixture is supposed to rapidly burn and is most effective at the edge of exploding (preignition).
If tbe light comes back on with the same code have it properly diagnosed. It will save you money long term.
Knock sensors are designed to stop preignition, which is very harmful to your engine. These engines run lean mixtures and high compression and run on the verge of preignition.
Preignition is basically explosions in your combustion chamber. The air fuel mixture is supposed to rapidly burn and is most effective at the edge of exploding (preignition).
If tbe light comes back on with the same code have it properly diagnosed. It will save you money long term.
Posted on 9/30/23 at 2:39 pm to Korkstand
Pull the negative terminal off the battery for about 10 minutes and reconnect. This will reset the computer’s memory and the CEL will go off. If the light returns, you have another issue.
Posted on 10/2/23 at 8:35 pm to Swazla
quote:I hope I don't come across as argumentative, or questioning your knowledge because you know more than I do, but I'm pretty certain I had bad plugs because the new ones knocked out the lag completely and there was no misfire code. And it took a day but the light went off after changing the plugs too. It could very well come back on, but it sure seems like either the knock sensor was picking up on a misfire or I am in the midst of a very coincidental series of issues.
Bad plugs will give you a misfire code. A knock sensor code is a different animal. The light will probably come back on.
Posted on 1/18/24 at 9:00 am to Korkstand
Update in case any of this is relevant or useful for future readers:
My check engine light *did* come back on about a week later, along with the associated throttle lag in the 1500rpm range. It was on for about a week, then it went off for a day, then it came back on for a few days, then it was off for a couple days, then it came on for a couple days, then it went back off for a few days, then it came on for a day, then it went back off seemingly for good.
Then after a month or so of no issues my oil pressure dropped from normal to about 10 lbs while I was driving so I had to cave and take it in. Oil pump was good but the seal to the suction tube was shot. Changed pump and everything regardless. Mechanic cranked it up, pressure was good, but after he let it run for a while the pressure dropped back down to about 25 lbs.
Turns out the solenoids that operate the V4 mode were seized or shot. Changed those and everything is perfect. So then I got to thinking and I couldn't remember the last time I noticed it dropping to 4 cylinders, so I think those solenoids had been bad for quite a while.
Now I'm wondering if those failing solenoids could have been related to the knock code I was getting. Mechanic was unsure, so maybe one of you smart folks could shed some light. I don't know exactly how they operate - could they fail in a way that makes the valves only partially open, or some other failure mode that could get picked up by a knock sensor?
My check engine light *did* come back on about a week later, along with the associated throttle lag in the 1500rpm range. It was on for about a week, then it went off for a day, then it came back on for a few days, then it was off for a couple days, then it came on for a couple days, then it went back off for a few days, then it came on for a day, then it went back off seemingly for good.
Then after a month or so of no issues my oil pressure dropped from normal to about 10 lbs while I was driving so I had to cave and take it in. Oil pump was good but the seal to the suction tube was shot. Changed pump and everything regardless. Mechanic cranked it up, pressure was good, but after he let it run for a while the pressure dropped back down to about 25 lbs.
Turns out the solenoids that operate the V4 mode were seized or shot. Changed those and everything is perfect. So then I got to thinking and I couldn't remember the last time I noticed it dropping to 4 cylinders, so I think those solenoids had been bad for quite a while.
Now I'm wondering if those failing solenoids could have been related to the knock code I was getting. Mechanic was unsure, so maybe one of you smart folks could shed some light. I don't know exactly how they operate - could they fail in a way that makes the valves only partially open, or some other failure mode that could get picked up by a knock sensor?
Posted on 1/19/24 at 9:46 pm to Korkstand
well i appreciated the update
Page 2 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News