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115 Optimax Cooling Issues

Posted on 3/10/19 at 2:43 pm
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 2:43 pm
I have a 115 optimax that is freshly rebuilt. It will overheat while trying to plane off about half the time light ship, and every time if I have the boat loaded. Once I get on plane it's good to go. I can see on the water pressure gauge that it'll pressure up to about 16-17 psi before the poppet valve will open and cycle and drop it down to about 9 if it will stay open. When it stays open I have no problems. When I can see it cycle is when I know I'm about to get buzzed and knocked into guardian mode. The problem is how long it takes for the poppet to open. If it takes me more than about 5 seconds it isn't going to happen.

I've dredged the internet and see things about restricting the block vent, using a slotted poppet valve, using a lighter spring, etc. It does seem like a common problem that trollers have had. I've replaced the thermostat, poppet valve assembly, and entire water pump assembly all with OEM parts and all with the same results. No luck. The boat is a bit under powered for 3 fat guys and a fishing load but it should still plane off. I'm not one to go questioning/changing the OEM design but it has all brand new shite, plenty of water pressure, and doesn't work. It seems to me that the poppet should open around 10-12 psi but I can easily make 14/15 psi and hold it there and make the buzzer go off very predictably. It makes about 4psi at idle, jumps to 10ish @ about 1200 rpm.

So I guess the question is, any of you optimax owners have some wisdom to shed on this? Any 115 owners had the same problem and found the mystery solution? I'm trying the water pump one more time this week since the last time I put it together I tore a gasket and if that doesn't fix it I'm bringing it in very frustrated. It came back with the alternator wired wrong so I guess it's not too farfetched that something else could be wrong here. I've had the lower unit off about 6 times trying to find things wrong and can't.
Posted by Bama Shadow
Member since Jan 2009
575 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 4:38 pm to
My cousin has a 115 Opti and he has had problems with the coolant passages getting stopped up. Seems it's a common problem on those. Doesn't sound like your problem, but it couldn't hurt to clean them all out.
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 4:45 pm to
I'm sure you've checked it - but is the motor too high on the transom ?
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 4:48 pm to
Man I hope that isnt the issue. I'll be upset if it is, the block was at a machine shop a month ago, I kinda assumed that a motor that had failed due to overheat would have all of the cooling issues addressed when I got it
This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 7:27 am
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 4:52 pm to
I dont think so. The cavitation plate it about a half inch above the bottom of the boat if I run a straight edge from it to the transom.

Eta: it's in the 2nd to lowest hole. I guess I could drop it down, wouldnt I be losing water pressure if that was the issue though? Should I just do a push on the trailer and see if I get buzzed?
This post was edited on 3/10/19 at 4:54 pm
Posted by LSUA 75
Colfax,La.
Member since Jan 2019
3702 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 8:45 pm to
I have 135 Optimax,almost from day 1 I had a problem in that I could only run it with a no-wake idle or up on plane.If I tried to do fast idle overheat alarm comes on and it goes into fail safe mode.Huge pain if I want to go through a stumpy area.Quite a few people had same issue,in my research on internet.Also trim and tilt failed right out of warranty,rust!!!.Mercury agreed to pay 1/2 after I raised 14 kinds of hell.It does do very good on gas but nevertheless I’ll never buy another Mercury and I was die hard Mercury before this.
I’ve been to Alaska twice and about all I saw there were Honda or Yamaha outboards.That tells me something.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/10/19 at 10:04 pm to
So I take it you've never been able to sort the problem out
Posted by davidwademarine
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Sep 2014
202 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 6:21 am to
Have you checked your air compressor strainer?

Do you have a SmartCraft gauge to confirm what your fault is? If not, Vessel View Mobile sounds like a great choice. They’re $150.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 6:36 am to
No and no. The strainer is going to be my this evening project, I had forgot about that. It does piss like a racehorse so the strainer hadnt crossed my mind.

I was torn between the vesselview mobile and putting in an SC1000. Recommendations?

You might end up seeing the boat over there. I dont want to bring it in because I'm beyond ready to go fishing but I'm at my last hurrah with it.
Posted by KemoSabe65
70605
Member since Mar 2018
5134 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 6:46 am to
Not a tech but recommend the sc1000 and cheat sheet on phone for alarms.
Casey, could this motor have a bad temp sensor on the block? How would one go about confirming? I have learned a ton from my mechanic about trouble shooting the codes since I started using him.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 7:17 am to
I take it the sc1000 displays faults? I never got a clear answer on that. Cooling issue aside, I want to have some kind of smartcraft interface on the boat since I'll probably repower with mercury in a few years.
Posted by LSU Neil
Springfield
Member since Feb 2007
2497 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 7:21 am to
Clean the thermostats
Posted by KemoSabe65
70605
Member since Mar 2018
5134 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 7:44 am to
Yes but I don’t think the 1000 is going to work on the new 4strokes. Not sure what to harness and gauge runs used, new sc1000 is $250 only. Might try eBay or amazon for used. He this problem fixed no reason to repower.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 8:50 am to
I'll probably order a new one this evening then. Cant wait to fish another damn harness from the stern to the console



I'll check the strainer this evening, put the new water pump in tomorrow and give it one more shot. If it dont work I'll bring it in. I was mainly wanting to see if any of these "fixes" I've been seeing online have any merit. I figured they didnt but might as well have asked.

Only thing I suspect might be the issue I was thinking about last night. The water pump kit came with two gaskets to go under the faceplate: a regular gasket and a flat sheet metal gasket. When I pulled the lower unit the first time it had the sheet metal gasket under the faceplate so I reassembled the same with new. If the bottom of the faceplate is not sealing with that sheet metal is it possible that the system is aerating even though I still show good pressure? It gets up to about 16 pounds but should it be higher @ 2500-3000 rpm? When I do it this time I will use the regular gasket like I always have in the past and see if it makes a difference.
Posted by KemoSabe65
70605
Member since Mar 2018
5134 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:34 am to
My 250 shows 17# @ 4,200 so i would figure you have plenty water pressure to cool. What is the temp when the over heat alarm goes off? I'll check my box of spare parts for a harness and ship your cost if i find one.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:40 am to
I just ordered the bluetooth mobile link. I can leave that under the cowling so thatll save me from poking another hole and running cable and all that good stuff. Should be here next week.

I may be able to get my hands on a nmea gateway in a few weeks for super cheap so I'm gonna sit on that.

Dont know what the temp is, dont have a way to check. The sensors all checked out good so I assume its reading and alarming correctly. All that was checked on the rebuild as well, along with the injectors and compressor and all. The heads are at about 140 @ idle on temp gun. Too scared to try and shoot them taking off
Posted by davidwademarine
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Sep 2014
202 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 5:48 am to
SC1000 will work with all SmartCraft engines. It will display fault information.

VesselView Mobile has a new feature that allows you to send your fault information to a selected preferred dealer and they can be viewed remotely. Very nice feature to have for only $150.

Downshift: call or email our office if you need to set up a service appointment.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:24 am to
I have an old iPhone that I'll be able to leave in the boat so I think the bluetooth diagnostics will be fine. Glad to see that tech making it's way to the outboard market.

Now if mercury could get away from their damn proprietary smartcraft shite and put a nmea plug on their powerhead we'd be getting somewhere. I'm familiar with nmea, J1939, and modbus. I hate smartcraft.
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 2:31 pm to
quote:


Eta: it's in the 2nd to lowest hole. I guess I could drop it down, wouldnt I be losing water pressure if that was the issue though?
Should I just do a push on the trailer and see if I get buzzed?
Those questions are waaay beyond my limited knowledge. I do use (and trust) David Wade - I'd pose those questions to him.

Good luck with your investigation. There are very few things more annoying than boat/motor troubles when you really want to be fishing.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81622 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 2:43 pm to
quote:

damn proprietary smartcraft shite
Only issue I have ever had in over 25 years and 4 engines.
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