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What is a safe PSI for home water system? Plumbing question.

Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:30 pm
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:30 pm
My plumber came by for my annual inspection and determined my water PSI was 90 and said that was dangerously too high. Said it could cause massive plumbing problems in the future. However, I looked on a few sites and they said was an acceptable range. Anyone here have any idea/expertise on the matter?
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
94700 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:31 pm to
90 is fine
Posted by BamaChemE
Midland, TX
Member since Feb 2012
7695 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:31 pm to
A lot would depend on what types of pipes you have and what they're rated for
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:32 pm to
quote:

A lot would depend on what types of pipes you have and what they're rated for


I am the third owner of the home...how would I even be able to determine what the current pipes are able to handle?
Posted by LucasP
Member since Apr 2012
21618 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:32 pm to
Your plumber is either conning you or retarded. Your psi can't get too high, the higher the better.
Posted by lathoroughbred
Louisiana/Kentucky
Member since May 2008
8125 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:33 pm to
40 to 45 I always thought
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13578 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:34 pm to
There is usually a pressure regulator inside your home somewhere, usually right where the water line enters the house. Mine blew out several years ago, and I only knew about it because some o rings on a faucet broke because of it, and then my water heater was having a pressure issue and the relief valve would trip and some water would come out of the pipe. I think it was pretty cheap to have the plumber replace it. I'm not sure about the proper pressure, but if your regulator is shot, you will have some problems eventually. Would you rather have it replaced now or after something bad happens while you're away and there is water everywhere? Luckily in my case it just leaked into the basement and only messed up one wall of drywall.
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:34 pm to
quote:

40 to 45 I always thought


Yeah, he proposed to me this: Replace Pressure Reducing Valve 3/4-IN
- Remove Existing Install New Whole House Pressure Reducing Valve (No Expansion Tank)

Before I dish out $750, I want to make sure this is urgent. This is in my rental home which I am planning on selling this Summer anyway. If it is not dire, I don't want to spend it.
Posted by East Coast Band
Member since Nov 2010
66999 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:35 pm to
quote:

Your psi can't get too high, the higher the better.


Oh, yes it can be too high.
I lived in a low area where water pressure was around 120 psi. The city had to put in pressure reducing valves. Before that people's washer hoses, garden hoses, etc. would blow.
Posted by GetCocky11
Calgary, AB
Member since Oct 2012
53509 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:37 pm to
Mine is generally around 45-50 just as a point of reference.
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
94700 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:37 pm to
quote:

Before I dish out $750, I want to make sure this is urgent.



WHAT?

i had my old non-working pressure reducer valve replaced (looked like an upside down bell) for like $150
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:37 pm to
quote:

WHAT?

i had my old non-working pressure reducer valve replaced (looked like an upside down bell) for like $150


Crazy. Here's the whole thing: The customer needs to change out the rubber washing machine hoses before they burst *
* Also the emergency water shut off on the hot side is corroded,leaking at some time *
* Water pressure to the home is way to high. 90 psi can cause multiple plumbing *
Findings
Option #1
Replace Pressure Reducing Valve 3/4-IN
- Remove Existing Install New Whole House Pressure Reducing Valve (No Expansion Tank)
2 Year Standard "No Charge" Replacement Warranty! Investment: 772
Option #2
You have rubber hoses which can and burst sn
Replace Laundry Hose Faucets (Pair)
- Replace hot & cold valves
2 Year Standard "No Charge" Replacement Warranty! Investment: 437
Option #3
Replace (1) Angle or Straight Stop Valve
- Close Main Water, Remove Old Valve, Install New Chrome Emergency Stop Valve
2 Year Standard "No Charge" Replacement Warranty! Investment: 230
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13578 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:38 pm to
quote:

WHAT? i had my old non-working pressure reducer valve replaced (looked like an upside down bell) for like $150


Yeah, sounds like a second plumber needs to be called. Mine was under $100 to replace.
Posted by NYNolaguy1
Member since May 2011
21844 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:38 pm to
90 is fine, but if you're worried you can get a pressure reducing valve to lower it.

There's some places in NYC that are even above that due to geography.
Posted by tigeraddict
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2007
15176 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:39 pm to
Per code, 30-85 psi. As an engineer I like to target 60-65. But 85 is allowed.
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
94700 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:40 pm to
so what..he's saying those pipes are bad because the PSI has been at 90?

are those w/d hoses actively leaking?

i mean..damn..

my last house had that shitty chinese PVC from the late 1990s that turns to powder in your hand when you squeeze it and the plumber just said as long as the PSI was 75-90 it would be ok.
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:41 pm to
quote:

Per code, 30-85 psi. As an engineer I like to target 60-65. But 85 is allowed.


Yeah, I see that 90 is definitely high-end, but I just don't see it being in the danger zone. Does anyone know how to DIY?
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:42 pm to
quote:

are those w/d hoses actively leaking?


I laughed at him for suggesting this. I don't get what that's about. I felt like he was conning me there.
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13578 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:44 pm to
quote:

Yeah, I see that 90 is definitely high-end, but I just don't see it being in the danger zone. Does anyone know how to DIY?


What type of pipes do you have now? I have old copper and some new PEX after a renovation. Replacing the regulator should be fairly simple. Turn the water off to the house, and turn on a faucet or hose that is the lowest point so that all of the water in the pipes will drain out. Then it is as simple as removing and replacing. PVC might be easiest to work with since the connections are easier to put back in place. Copper you'll have to sweat it. That's the main reason I didn't do mine.
Posted by rpg37
Biloxi, MS
Member since Sep 2008
54974 posts
Posted on 2/1/16 at 12:46 pm to
It is PVC everywhere. Where is the regulator located?
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