Started By
Message

re: Staining or finishing an antique wood piece? Bumped for advice.

Posted on 10/18/16 at 4:23 pm to
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
27783 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 4:23 pm to
quote:

You can try this, its helped me. Get an old sock and some mineral spirits and wipe it. Wring the sock so its damp. You want long strokes over the entire piece. The problem wit


Is this to smooth out what I have screwed up? or is this to apply later
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
27783 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 6:35 pm to
Here is what I did. Did the mineral spirits thing to fade some of the excess.

Then I went over with a traditional "stain" a Minwax Red Mahogany. I liked both. So it will redden up the rosewood. And the stain is just easier?
Posted by Tbobby
Member since Dec 2006
4358 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 7:25 pm to
I hate to say it, but you made a big mistake stripping antique wood. Since this is just a sideboard and will not require frequent cleaning (such as a table), you should have just dusted it and applied Briwax, a British wax containing only beeswax, tolulene ( a solvent) and stain (coming in 4 colors-clear, pine, mahogany and walnut).

You can apply wax over any finish, but cannot apply any other finish over wax.

Most likely, if the wood was French, it had a shellac base finish over a stain, and if it was British, it had a tung or boiled linseed oil finish over a stain, which are both very labor and time intensive jobs.

You should not have stripped the original finish before trying a much easier wax coating.
Posted by chity
Chicago, Il
Member since Dec 2008
6795 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 7:52 pm to
Most important is make sure you got all the old varnish off. Wet the entire piece of furniture and look for blotches. If you see any, strip some more or use another solvent ( ex. denatured alcohol) to clean residual varnish.

If you do not take this step, then when you stain the stain will soak into the properly stripped areas and roll off the still sealed areas. I speak from experience.

You want to make sure all the wood accept the stain.

Also a good tip: mix the stripper with some saw dust. It is not as abrasive.
Posted by Milk
central
Member since May 2010
1296 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 8:30 pm to
It may reactivate the heavy coat to even it out. If you try to apply poly right now you will probably make a mess. If you are really unhappy with it you can try a citrus based stripper, lightly sand and start over.

I am not a supported for using pre stain on hard wood or very old wood. The pre stain is for soft woods that are more sappy such as pine. On hardwoods with pre stain the stain comes out a lot lighter. Pre stain prevents the stain from soaking in deep and if it dries before you apply the stain you have to sand and start over.
Posted by Milk
central
Member since May 2010
1296 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 8:42 pm to
Sorry for the back to back posts. I did not read your last update. Red mahogany is my favorite minwax color, used it on my kitchen cabinets.

I did a combination of gel then oil based on my crown molding to get it the right color. (Not at the same time).

Like posted above if you get white spots its old finish and may need to be stripped further. I would just worry about those areas and blend the stain in. When using an oil based stain I put it on runny. I cut a sleeve off a tee shirt, soak it in the stain then rub the wood in every direction. When i wipe off the stain i use long strokes from end to end and turn the rest of the tee shirt so as to have a clean area. Wipe until nothing else comes off.

When applying poly always go with the grain and do not use short strokes or it may show up when done.
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
27783 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 9:46 pm to
quote:

I hate to say it, but you made a big mistake stripping antique wood. Since this is just a sideboard and will not require frequent cleaning (such as a table), you should have just dusted it and applied Briwax, a British wax containing only beeswax, tolulene ( a solvent) and stain (coming in 4 colors-clear, pine, mahogany and walnut).





The long life that sideboard has led? It needed stripping. This was not some pristine antique. the legs have been kicked a few million times and the top was etched with god knows what over decades. Grandmaw took care of it. She died in 1987. the sideboard did not take her death well, and did and saw things that needed to be stripped away.

Bottom line, I really enjoy this shite now and can see it as a hobby.

I am ABSOLUTELY interested in what you suggest for my Grandpaw's rocking chair. The wear pattern from his hand over 50 years and a few thousand cat naps is something I really want to preserve after restoration.

This sideboard was a piece that I did not expect to get, so I practiced with it.

I did learn one valuable thing. Stain is easier to work with than gel stain. Which I would not have guessed. applying poly will be a whole other disaster.
Posted by Jason in BR LA
Dutchtown
Member since Feb 2012
135 posts
Posted on 10/18/16 at 10:00 pm to
Stain is just pigmented clay you push into the wood grain. Its crap. If you want it beautiful buy some Dye from Honestead finishes. You disolve it in rubbing alcohol and apply it and it soaks deep into the wood. Different types of wood will stain the same color. After it dries then put on 3 coats of danish oil. Then 3 coats of polyeturathane. It is how professionals do it. It turns out nice and is very forgiving to work with. Because dye is transparent it doesn't block the light like stain does and really makes the wood grain pop.
first pageprev pagePage 3 of 3Next pagelast page
refresh

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram