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re: Quick question - replacing flooring in rear screened porch
Posted on 3/16/17 at 6:42 pm to wickowick
Posted on 3/16/17 at 6:42 pm to wickowick
quote:in a couple spots it feels less than solid. I'll report back once all the carpet is pulled up.
How much movement do you have with the wood planks? Any deflection/ movement?
If I went with the faux wood overlay would I skip the backerboard to allow the water to drain easier?
This post was edited on 3/16/17 at 6:44 pm
2
Posted on 3/17/17 at 11:02 am to CAD703X
bump for the day crew
Posted on 3/17/17 at 11:10 am to CAD703X
quote:
If I went with the faux wood overlay would I skip the backerboard to allow the water to drain easier?
Yes. Our deck looked bad and we didn't want to rip the structure down and start over. So we laid composite down over the existing deck boards. Had drainage issues since they were close together. I had to pull several up and I drilled half inch holes in the deck boards then put the composite back down and it helped bigly.
Posted on 3/17/17 at 12:21 pm to TU Rob
wait, you drilled holes in the *OLD* deck underneath the new manufactured wood?
Posted on 3/17/17 at 12:31 pm to CAD703X
quote:
I'm looking at the peel/stick laminate rectangles at Lowes but because I'm going to have to install backboard first, I wonder if I should just tile the damn room instead.
Anything "peel/stick" probably isn't going to hold up well with frequent dampness due to effect of all that moisture on the adhesive.
If you get tile you'll still have to install backerboard but its a much more permanent option. Just make sure whatever tile you get is porcelain tile rated for outdoor use so you don't end up with freezing temps causing tiles to crack. And get something with a surface that won't be super slippery when wet.
Posted on 3/18/17 at 1:26 pm to CAD703X
Update: ripped the carpet out.. No easy task since they used adhesive spawned from the 8th circle of hell but here's what the wood looks like. I love it! Why would they cover that up.
New approach: restoring and staining. I assume I'll need to rent one of those floor Sanders but what else should I look out for?
Boards are nasty but seem structurally sound
New approach: restoring and staining. I assume I'll need to rent one of those floor Sanders but what else should I look out for?
Boards are nasty but seem structurally sound
Posted on 3/18/17 at 2:09 pm to CAD703X
I would sand the floor and stain it.
Posted on 3/18/17 at 3:31 pm to CAD703X
Put down tile. Easy to maintain.
Or rip it all out and go with Trex
Or rip it all out and go with Trex
Posted on 3/18/17 at 3:34 pm to CAD703X
I would stay away from any laminate tiles. You should look into Rhino Shield coating or stain the wood planks followed by a clear epoxy coat.
This post was edited on 3/18/17 at 4:25 pm
Posted on 3/18/17 at 5:02 pm to CAD703X
Cad, do NOT put down ceramic tile. If there is any deflection AT ALL, it will constantly crack. If not the tile themselves, then the grout lines.
Posted on 3/18/17 at 5:03 pm to LCA131
quote:too bad we dont have a poster in the flooring business
LCA131
Posted on 3/18/17 at 5:06 pm to OWLFAN86
frick you. We aren't friends. We used to have decent discussions about faith and stuff.
DONE, PUNK!!!!
DONE, PUNK!!!!
Posted on 3/18/17 at 5:07 pm to CAD703X
That inflatable hot tub is trashy.
Posted on 3/18/17 at 5:53 pm to Winston Cup
With the gaps in the flooring and knot holes. That screen porch will be a mosquito/bug jail 
Screen porch requires tongue and groove floor to keep out the bugs. Guess you could hang a bug zapper in there.
Screen porch requires tongue and groove floor to keep out the bugs. Guess you could hang a bug zapper in there.
Posted on 3/18/17 at 9:46 pm to weadjust
Either sand and stain. Or use Hardibacker laid in thinset (1\4x1/4 square notch trowel) and screw them down with Hardibacker screws. Leave at least 1/8 inch between each Hardibacker.
If any deflection in floor either double butter the tile or use a bag of self leveler to get area as flat as possible
If any deflection in floor either double butter the tile or use a bag of self leveler to get area as flat as possible
Posted on 3/18/17 at 10:05 pm to CAD703X
quote:
wait, you drilled holes in the *OLD* deck underneath the new manufactured wood?
Really just two areas that held water. I took up about 3-4 boards then drilled holes in the old wood to help. Maybe a dozen half inch holes spaced out.
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