Paging Napolean - Washing Machine Problem

transmission

replace

welcome to a shittier washing machine.

does the water drain out?

If so then you probably just need a drive coupling. (like $8)

Plenty of youtube videos on doing that. Not the easiest job, but not too hard.

I would fix tthat machine unless it's a transmission, if that is bad then it's better to replace.


The part that worries me is saying you can't turn the agitator. Either way?
One way spins the whole drum and the brake should prevent you from spinning, the opposite direction the agitator should spin. Very freely.

another very likely thing that I see all the time, is a sock stuck in the drain pump. This happens and it won't spin or move at all just make noise.
Once you get the shell off, you will have to take the pump off to take the motor off. See if the machine spins normal with the pump off, if so just replace your pump. (your machine uses the cheapest water pump they make)

changing the coupler

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Wahing Maching

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Good catch. And still it took me 2 edits to fix it.

Got a KitchenAid fridge on your rec. its nice clark, real nice.

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I might try replacing the coupler myself. Just to see if I can do it. Do y'all charge extra to fix customer created problems, if I can't do it right or make it worse?

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The link I put out was the short-cut method to replacing the coupler, where you don't have to take the washer shell off.

I normally don't charge extra for customer's mistakes, unless you pull a ton of wires off and don't have them labeled and then I have to use schematics to fix the work, in that case I tack on extra labor. Generally no.

You have the hidden type lid switch, you just have to pop up the console with a paint scraper or something flat and then jumper the white and grey wires and that defeats the lid switch and allows testing with the door open. At that point you see two brass spring clips, removing those allows you to remove the entire cabinet and get front access to the pump.

Given your additional info I'm closer to 100% sure it's the drive coupler. I'm one of the cheapest around but I still charge $94 to do this job (parts and labor, many people charge more than that in service fees) But $8 (and yes buy the $8 coupler not the cheaper one, you want the HD coupler) is much less than $94 plus tax.

Our blue book says to charge $155.

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Check the hall sensor which is on the stator - easy fix and it's only about 20-30 bucks.

My friends was doing the same as yours (she has a GE Profile Harmony) and used an LG part which was "ok'ed" by the mfger. Spins like a dream now.

Edit: Like this, but for your particular model
LINK

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He has a decent machine, he doesn't have that rotor stator crap with the Hall sensor.

But the coupler and the hall sensor are both the most changed parts on their respective units. On a whirlpool the hall sensor is called the shifter/actuator and it's the part that always fails if you have a newer VMW whirlpool. (one with a row of lights and a single grey rubber start button)

Also nothing on a GE is similar to anything on a Whirlpool. Totally different designs.

front load or top load?

top load there are some fixes. Unfortunately with a rotor/stator drive system loud noises during spin are generally a sign of a failing bearing. On some units you have to change the entire tub (over $300 for parts) if a bearing is bad.

On top loads it's usually something that can be fixed, on front loads, as long as the shipping bolts aren't still on and there are no bad supports, there isn't much it could be besides a bearing.

On all units 9 out of ten times a loud noise on spin is a failing bearing.
Just some are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than others. But I would need to know brand and model before I knew for sure.

I may need more info. With the model I can be more detailed in a response. But being that it IS a top load, it's not a lost cause.

GE
Model wbb4500e

My SpeedQueen doin business son!