re: OT Mechanics: Standard transmission issue

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Or a new pilot bearing. I used to have an S10 which the Hombre is just a re-badge of. Pilot bearing went out and started making shifts hard. Warning sign was a loud rubbing noise shifting into gear from a standstill. Also it makes it difficult to shift into 1st or reverse from park. I'd bring it to a mechanic and have them pull the transmission and examine the slave cylinder which is inside the bell housing, have them examine the pilot bearing and look the clutch. Odds are its one of those three.

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Gonna drop the trans the next day or so. I have a transmission jack already.


The stinking clutch slave hydraulic line is a booger to get disconnected though. It's in there as a 'quick' connect.
What little gizmo tool do I need to get that line disconnected?

Next, how do I get the pilot bearing out? I think its just bronze bushing. Looking at a couple of pilot bearing pullers from Harbor Freight and AutoZone.

Bushings in the shifter housing looks good.

If a new clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing and clutch slave with a new flywheel doesn't fix it, guess I am gonna have to get a transmission shop to see if they can rebuild it.

A reman is about $1600 with about a 4-6 week lead time.

If it is indeed a T5, be VERY CAREFUL about what oil you put into it. Older manual transmissions have bronze parts in them, and a lot of modern lubes for manuals have an additive element that will eat that right up. I don't even need to read the thread to know there were plenty of uninformed answers.

First of all, you need to figure out whether you have a World Class T-5 or a None-World Class T-5. The WC T-5 is made for Dexron/Mercon II ATF and NOT the newer formulations of either! DO NOT put gear oil in it! Find the old formulations!

The NWC T-5 is made for 50 Wt gear oil, NOT 90 Wt or anything else, which I was able to find from Lucas in a synthetic form with the correct additive package.

Now, if your T-5 is hard to shift in all gears, with 2nd being a little harder, and reverse harder still, that is because you're not getting a full clutch release. Isuzu more than likely used the closed plastic master/slave cylinder arrangement on your truck that was becoming popular among OEMs at the time. They wear out. Get new ones, I have not looked, but if they are what I think they are, they will come from Rock Auto as a kit that includes the semi-hard line between them. You want a LuK brand if they have it, that was the most likely OEM part. The reason it is harder in 2nd is because that is your synchro that got the most wear, and reverse has no synchro. Do this, and more than likely you need a clutch and throwout bearing as well, before you open up the trans.

WRT to tearing into the T-5, I just finished one. IF you have a hydraulic press, pullers, a selection of snap ring pliers, drifts, and all the other tools, it is not hard, just time-consuming. If you don't have those tools, you're going to either need a CLOSE buddy that has them, or you're going to be a simian attempting carnal relations with a ovoid inflated pigskin. Just buy a reman. Just the correct parts selection alone stops many people because there were soooooo many T-5's made for so many applications. The only company that was halfway consistent in what they put in the cars was Ford. and GM to some extent. The rest used whatever Tremec shipped them that week.

Rebuild it yourself if it’s a t5 you should easily find plenty of videos on it and if you screw it up swap it in for a reman and give em the old one for the core

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Its an aluminum transmission so I don't think I can put a Heli-Coil insert in it

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A time-sert will probably work

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A time-sert will probably work

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HeliCoil has been the go-to for many a mechanic over the years to fix a stripped bolt hole.

Time_cert seems to be a new product(I guess).

Decisions decisions.

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Did you know that Heli-coils were more or less invented for use in aluminum? Aerospace applications used to be full of them straight off the production line. There are better modern options though, maybe something like a Keensert? Either will be stronger than the original threads were.

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Gotcha. Thanks for the advice.

Stopped off at NAPA and purchased a HeliCoil kit.

Next step after this is to see what the transmission is gonna take.

No way am I gonna try to rebuild it myself.