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re: Fridge semi-cold and freezer iced over
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:07 pm to GetCocky11
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:07 pm to GetCocky11
It's the fan motor. It carries cold air from the freezer area to the fridge.
0
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:11 pm to Meauxjeaux
Just a FYI. If you pull the fan and go to test it, make sure of it's voltage. I was in too much of a hurry and zapped a 12v fan with 120v. The smell let's you know you screwed the pooch.
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:16 pm to Meauxjeaux
Your coils behind the inside back wall of the freezer are iced up.
Turn it off. Unload the freezer to ice chests and remove all freezer shelving.
Unscrew the couple of screws they hold the back panel in place, remove the panel.
Sit in a chair with a blow dryer on high and melt all ice.
Put back together and reload. Turn on.
If it only last a few days, defroster is out or thermistor needs replacing.
Turn it off. Unload the freezer to ice chests and remove all freezer shelving.
Unscrew the couple of screws they hold the back panel in place, remove the panel.
Sit in a chair with a blow dryer on high and melt all ice.
Put back together and reload. Turn on.
If it only last a few days, defroster is out or thermistor needs replacing.
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:20 pm to Meauxjeaux
Sounds like you've got ice behind the back panel. The same blower and unit serves the freezer and the fridge. Take the inside back panel off and if you find ice, use a heat gun or hair dryer to thaw it out.
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:29 pm to Meauxjeaux
Sounds like your warm air intake is letting in too much air. Tape some visqueen over that hole on the back and run it that way
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:37 pm to Meauxjeaux
Defrost failure. If it's a GE your control board is bad.
You need ahair dryer and you need to defrost the vent at the bottom left if your fridge. This will allow circulation between the freezer and bring the temp down.
You will either need to unplug it for 24 hours. Or you need to take everything out the fridge below the icemaker and then take the back wall out and melt the ice back there.
The problem is either going to be the defrost terminator in the back the heater or the control.
If a ge you can jump the brown and blue wires on the control board at the bottom and the heater should come on. If it doesn't you know you have a bad heater or terminator.
On most non ge brands the defrost terminator will be the problem.
If the unit is pre 2007 itmay have a defrost timer those are cheap.
Most units now use control boards.
Basically the easiest test for non ge is to test continuity between the terminator and the heater. If it's open you have a bad freezer part. That is better for your wallet.
If the parts in freezer have continuity it's a bad board.
You need ahair dryer and you need to defrost the vent at the bottom left if your fridge. This will allow circulation between the freezer and bring the temp down.
You will either need to unplug it for 24 hours. Or you need to take everything out the fridge below the icemaker and then take the back wall out and melt the ice back there.
The problem is either going to be the defrost terminator in the back the heater or the control.
If a ge you can jump the brown and blue wires on the control board at the bottom and the heater should come on. If it doesn't you know you have a bad heater or terminator.
On most non ge brands the defrost terminator will be the problem.
If the unit is pre 2007 itmay have a defrost timer those are cheap.
Most units now use control boards.
Basically the easiest test for non ge is to test continuity between the terminator and the heater. If it's open you have a bad freezer part. That is better for your wallet.
If the parts in freezer have continuity it's a bad board.
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:39 pm to 756
Any time the fan is locked up you want to replace it. Never reuse a stuck fan. A bad fan can short the control board. Fans aren't much.
You can get the SM999 WHICH is pretty much a universal 120v evaporator fan for $10'
You can get the SM999 WHICH is pretty much a universal 120v evaporator fan for $10'
Posted on 2/28/18 at 6:46 pm to Meauxjeaux
This happened to my GE fridge. The board was bad and needed to be replaced.
Best to wait for Napoleon though.
Best to wait for Napoleon though.
Posted on 2/28/18 at 7:02 pm to Meauxjeaux
quote:
: I never knew air flowed between the two. Got Googling some of this and the things you learn... Thanks all.
I can't say how many times a customer had your issue,"no cool in fridge, cold freezer" and then got upset when I went to the freezer first.
Most common sxs is the GE, it was the most common SxS after 2005, which is when most people here got new units.
A control is $205, labor about $100.
If defrost too add $40.
So a ge new board is around $350 to fix.
But a new sxs is $1k.
Whirlpool is cheaper.
They have slightly cheaper boards, except their Kitchen Aid line, which can be high.
Frigidaires have inexpensive parts their boards rarely fail.
LG and Samsung most of the time it's sensors that fail.
Honestly on the GE it could be a sensor, but it's rare. Though being $5 each I sometimes throw them in silently.
This post was edited on 2/28/18 at 7:03 pm
Posted on 3/1/18 at 12:37 pm to agdoctor
AGDOC- not always- the energy feature is a huge culprit and the drain line plugging up and freezing keep the water from draining when the defrost heater kicks on
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