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Message
Vintage Stereo/Turntable Repair
Posted on 2/4/20 at 4:15 pm
Posted on 2/4/20 at 4:15 pm
I have collected a lot of vintage equipment over 40+ years. Most of it is in need of a good cleaning, troubleshooting and/or minor repair. I am in search of a reputable repairman in the BR area. I have asked in the "Audiophile" thread previously with minimal luck. A couple guys say they will take a look but I can't seem to bring myself to giving expensive gear to someone I don't know without at least a reference. I know Marco is the resident expert, help an old guy out please. 
6
Posted on 2/4/20 at 4:24 pm to TreeDawg
Are you not interested in doing the cleaning part yourself? Sometimes that is all that is needed - cleaning the contacts, and It’s very simple.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 4:33 pm to SUB
Yes I do minor cleaning. Most of this receiver stuff is over 40 years old and really needs a good troubleshooting. The turntables need various repair.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 4:54 pm to TreeDawg
I have several items 40 ish years old. A cleaning brought the sound back. They will eventually fail. But I have a Marantz 1060 from the ‘70s that’s all original and still sounds amazing.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 4:59 pm to TreeDawg
quote:
vintage equipment
does not equal or mean
quote:
expensive gear
in 99% of instances.
Unless you're hoarding a bunch of old McIntosh equipment. I have a pre-pro that was about $8k fully loaded back in the day. I'd be lucky to get a few hundred bucks for it now and it's Tag-McLaren. It still works perfectly.
This post was edited on 2/4/20 at 5:00 pm
Posted on 2/4/20 at 8:07 pm to TreeDawg
I just had my Marantz repaired by Advanced Video on Sherwood. Great work. Reasonable rates. Stereo sounds incredible
Posted on 2/4/20 at 9:57 pm to RaginCajunz
I've used Advanced Video for a few amps, turntables, and tape decks. The guy does great work.
Posted on 2/4/20 at 11:09 pm to TreeDawg
Sorry I can’t help you...I don’t know repair folks in B.R..
For some things, I still use Richard Gray across from Oschner Hospital on Jefferson Hwy. in Metry. However, he tends to only work on stuff he wants to now, which is mostly tube stuff (which I do myself now).
For Marantz, McIntosh, Fisher, Pioneer, TEAC, TASCAM, Pioneer, Sony, Revox, vintage Onkyo, and Luxman, I send them off to a specialist out of state that specialize in those brands. They know their brand inside out as that’s mostly all they work on, and usually have a huge graveyard of broken original pieces of gear to pull unobtanium parts from to repair yours if needed.
When it comes to tape, send it to a specialist...trust me. The usual “fix it” guy may change belts and “lube”, but after 30-40 years, they need all motors overhauled. Tape decks also need to have the head aligned, the azimuth reset, and have to be re-biased...and you need certain reference signal tapes to do this. The ones that specialize in it will have this.
Also, reputable, specialty repair shops will “re-spec” your piece of gear—you will get a printout of all the post calibration/repair measurements showing its bench performance.
Over the years, I have sent things to local people who got things working, but it just didn’t sound right or perform how I knew it could. On more than one occasion, I would then send those same pieces off to a specialist, and they would ask “who the hell worked on this?”
Also, it’s worth the extra money, if you really care for the pieces and want them to perform flawlessly for many years to come, to have them TOTALLY rebuilt (transformers rebuilt, and all capacitors, resistors, point-to-point wires replaced). I also add fuses to pieces that pre-dated this safety feature, and also have the power cord either fully replaced or add an IEC socket to the rear of the chassis—even with a full rebuild, some parts are 40 years old plus—you don’t want to burn the house down trying to keep something totally vintage (and if that happens, well, that piece isn’t gonna be too vintage after the firemen leave!).
If you post some of the models, I may be able to steer you into the right folks to do the overhauls, but you will have to send them off.
For some things, I still use Richard Gray across from Oschner Hospital on Jefferson Hwy. in Metry. However, he tends to only work on stuff he wants to now, which is mostly tube stuff (which I do myself now).
For Marantz, McIntosh, Fisher, Pioneer, TEAC, TASCAM, Pioneer, Sony, Revox, vintage Onkyo, and Luxman, I send them off to a specialist out of state that specialize in those brands. They know their brand inside out as that’s mostly all they work on, and usually have a huge graveyard of broken original pieces of gear to pull unobtanium parts from to repair yours if needed.
When it comes to tape, send it to a specialist...trust me. The usual “fix it” guy may change belts and “lube”, but after 30-40 years, they need all motors overhauled. Tape decks also need to have the head aligned, the azimuth reset, and have to be re-biased...and you need certain reference signal tapes to do this. The ones that specialize in it will have this.
Also, reputable, specialty repair shops will “re-spec” your piece of gear—you will get a printout of all the post calibration/repair measurements showing its bench performance.
Over the years, I have sent things to local people who got things working, but it just didn’t sound right or perform how I knew it could. On more than one occasion, I would then send those same pieces off to a specialist, and they would ask “who the hell worked on this?”
Also, it’s worth the extra money, if you really care for the pieces and want them to perform flawlessly for many years to come, to have them TOTALLY rebuilt (transformers rebuilt, and all capacitors, resistors, point-to-point wires replaced). I also add fuses to pieces that pre-dated this safety feature, and also have the power cord either fully replaced or add an IEC socket to the rear of the chassis—even with a full rebuild, some parts are 40 years old plus—you don’t want to burn the house down trying to keep something totally vintage (and if that happens, well, that piece isn’t gonna be too vintage after the firemen leave!).
If you post some of the models, I may be able to steer you into the right folks to do the overhauls, but you will have to send them off.
This post was edited on 2/8/20 at 1:03 pm
Posted on 2/7/20 at 11:09 am to Marco Esquandolas
quote:
For Marantz, McIntosh, Fisher, Pioneer, TEAC, TASCAM, Pioneer, Sony, Revox, vintage Onkyo, and Luxman, I send them off to a specialist out of state that specialize in those brands. They know their brand inside out as that’s mostly all they work on, and usually have a huge graveyard of broken original pieces of gear to pull unobtanium parts from to repair yours if needed.
Noted
quote:
Also, reputable, specialty repair shops will “re-spec” your piece of gear—you will get a printout of all the post calibration/repair measurements showing its bench performance.
Again noted....
quote:
have them TOTALLY rebuilt (transformers rebuilt, and all capacitors, resisters, point-to-point wires replaced).
What kinda money are we talking about vs just having a unit worked over and fixed? Rebuilding is an obvious optimum solution..........I am interested.
quote:
If you post some of the models, I may be able to steer you into the right folks to do the overhauls, but you will have to send them off.
Some of the units I want work done on are:
Sansui SR-929 Direct Drive Turntable
Sansui 7070 Receiver
Marantz 2330B Receiver
Yamaha YP-D6 Direct Drive Turntable
Dual 1257 Belt Drive Turntable
Marco you are a wealth of information. Thank you for your attention.
Posted on 2/7/20 at 4:14 pm to TreeDawg
I have a Yamaha YP-D6 Direct Drive Turntable the guy at Advanced Video repaired a few months ago. It is direct drive, so the repair was more than a belt change, above my pay grade. The turntable is back in action and sounding great with a Nagaoka on it.
Posted on 2/8/20 at 8:53 pm to TreeDawg
For a total rebuild on a Sansui receiver, you may be looking at $400-500.
For turntables, they will all need to have the bearing pulled down and repacked, as well as the thrust plate replaced if it has pitted (think of a nail with a rounded tip—not a sharp point—pushing down on a Teflon pad in a tiny, 1mm wide spot, with 10 pounds of downforce for 40 years...it will eventually cause a dimple which will cause excessive friction when turning).
For the most part, the replacement parts are cheap (unless you need an OEM knob, faceplate, dial, bezel, or specialty part)...its the labor and expertise you are paying for (as with any worthwhile service). The tables should run $100-150 barring any odd issues.
***ALWAYS DOUBLE BOX, WITH NEW HEAVY DUTY BOXES, AND USE SOFT FOAM OR PEANUTS BETWEEN THE 2 BOXES WHEN SHIPPING!!!...I can not stress this enough!...always OVERPACK/BOX!......all the shipping carriers suck arse.
Since I have a warehouse and dock at the office with daily pallet freight, I have been sending heavy pieces via ground pallet
Over the years, I have invested in Gator cases in a few different sizes, and even have custom foam inserts cut for specific pieces of gear. You slap the shipping label directly on the heavy duty plastic, waterproof case, and put a TSA lock on it and off it goes.
Also, depending on the gear, Audio Classics in Vestal, NY has double and triple, new, custom fit boxes and inserts for a bit of classic gear. I bought a triple, insulated box for a MC 2105 power amp—they shipped the empty box to me for $100–i then loaded the amp and shipped right back to them. The box is a beast!
For turntables, they will all need to have the bearing pulled down and repacked, as well as the thrust plate replaced if it has pitted (think of a nail with a rounded tip—not a sharp point—pushing down on a Teflon pad in a tiny, 1mm wide spot, with 10 pounds of downforce for 40 years...it will eventually cause a dimple which will cause excessive friction when turning).
For the most part, the replacement parts are cheap (unless you need an OEM knob, faceplate, dial, bezel, or specialty part)...its the labor and expertise you are paying for (as with any worthwhile service). The tables should run $100-150 barring any odd issues.
***ALWAYS DOUBLE BOX, WITH NEW HEAVY DUTY BOXES, AND USE SOFT FOAM OR PEANUTS BETWEEN THE 2 BOXES WHEN SHIPPING!!!...I can not stress this enough!...always OVERPACK/BOX!......all the shipping carriers suck arse.
Since I have a warehouse and dock at the office with daily pallet freight, I have been sending heavy pieces via ground pallet
Over the years, I have invested in Gator cases in a few different sizes, and even have custom foam inserts cut for specific pieces of gear. You slap the shipping label directly on the heavy duty plastic, waterproof case, and put a TSA lock on it and off it goes.
Also, depending on the gear, Audio Classics in Vestal, NY has double and triple, new, custom fit boxes and inserts for a bit of classic gear. I bought a triple, insulated box for a MC 2105 power amp—they shipped the empty box to me for $100–i then loaded the amp and shipped right back to them. The box is a beast!
Posted on 2/8/20 at 9:22 pm to TreeDawg
I know a guy in Calera, Al. He's a master on any vintage electronics.
If you want his number, I will give it to you, just don't tell him where you got it.
If you want his number, I will give it to you, just don't tell him where you got it.
This post was edited on 2/8/20 at 10:10 pm
Posted on 2/8/20 at 9:30 pm to TreeDawg
Look.
It is fantastic that you want to restore vintage gear. Props to you. However, the reality is that you’re going to spend more on repairs and shipping than it’s worth in resale. If it’s worth it you you then great but you need to know that going in.
It is fantastic that you want to restore vintage gear. Props to you. However, the reality is that you’re going to spend more on repairs and shipping than it’s worth in resale. If it’s worth it you you then great but you need to know that going in.
Posted on 2/9/20 at 1:19 am to auggie
quote:
I know a guy in Calera, Al. He's a master on any vintage electronics
auggie...Please read my post above...not meaning to butt heads with you or discredit your experience with your past repairs, but this is the exact type of service referral I am trying to steer the OP away from...and I’ve provided reasons as to why above, but I will expound a bit more on the subject:
This repairman in AL, while he may have given you satisfactory results, is NOT a master on ANY vintage gear. There are barely any “masters” among those that specialize in one and only one specific brand of gear, much less “any” of them.
There is “fixin” something, and then there is restoring to original specifications and giving another 30 years of usage, with 2 year warranties, proof of specs on print out, original owners manuals given with rebuilds, OEM parts, and very fast turnaround times.
I have seen, in over 30 years of deep involvement in this hobby, enough “I gotta guy who can fix anything” folks out there, and have found that almost all of them are “Jacks of all trades and masters of none”.
...and NO audio gear “master” technicians are located in AL, MS, LA, or even TX for that matter...I either know, or know of, the master techs for almost every major manufacturer of audio gear sold in the last 50 years in North America...and I speak through experience of having met many of them, and thus sent tens of thousands of dollars worth of gear to be restored over the last 10 years (full restorations of power amps, preamps, reel decks, cassette decks, turntables, speaker recone service, speaker re-foam services, power supply rebuilds/rewinding, crossover rebuilds, CD transport rebuilds...)
Posted on 2/9/20 at 1:28 am to Marco Esquandolas
Well, That's what he does for a living. Then he helps us guitar players out by fixing our old tube amps and other shite, and even does guitar repair.
Whatever makes you feel special though.
Your guy wears a lab coat and talks with a European Accent, my guy wears overalls and listens more than he talks.
Whatever makes you feel special though.
Your guy wears a lab coat and talks with a European Accent, my guy wears overalls and listens more than he talks.
This post was edited on 2/9/20 at 2:14 am
Posted on 2/9/20 at 4:00 am to auggie
Auggie, the very first sentence in your response validates my above statement of “A Jack of all trades and a master of none”
A true story that relates:
About two years ago, I took my 911 to my friend’s dealership (not Porsche) as he swore he could change the oil—“It’s simple!” he said...Well, they did actually change the oil, but since they were a Chevy dealer that doesn’t ever work on Porsche, much less a 2 year old, current model 911, they had no idea that there was a hatch release cable that runs on a pulley just onside the oil filter, and thus unknowingly knocked the cable off the pulley. Since the problem was discovered a week later when I tried to pop the rear deck lid, I took it to the Porsche dealership—first thing they asked—“Did some other than us recently change the oil, because if so, they probably knocked the cable off the pulley”
Ya see, these guys work on only one kind of car all day and know them inside and out, and his guess, without even looking at it was correct—the cable was off the pulley—so my friends oil change only cost about $1000 ($200 for oil and $800 for Porsche to repair—it’s not an easy fix).
As I stated, your guy may be great for you, but if you bothered to read the frigging thread, you would have easily seen that the OP is interested in doing a complete job, not a fix.
I also prefaced it by stating I didn’t want to “butt heads” with you, but your advice to the OP was not what he seemed to be looking for, and gave a reason why...but you must not have comprehended that.
Since you either did not read the thread, or did not comprehend it, you obviously got sand in your crotch, and thus responded as you did, Sounding like a petulant child with your response, “Whatever makes you feel special though”. Listen, I don’t care about “feeling special” as you say—I care knowing that I’m right—which I am.
Also, your European accent quip doesn’t make sense—seriously, read what you wrote—it’s pretty dumb, considering I’ve never met anyone in a U.S. vintage audio repair shop that speaks with a European accent, or wears a lab coat. Why would a European relocate to the USA (with their lab coat) to make $35k/year fixing old audio gear?...think before you type man.
I believe over the years, that I have proven, on hundreds of occasions on this very board, that I indeed DO KNOW WHAT THE frick I AM TALKING ABOUT when it comes to just about every aspect of consumer high end audio gear...probably more than all 140,000 registered users on this site, if you really want the truth.
But you, well, not only is your guy a master of “ANY” audio gear, but now also is a luthier, and vintage cabinet restorer, and all around “other shite” (your words) fixer too?
Maybe we should get The Fret Shack to chime in on your guys guitar repair work...ever notice Fret Shack doesn’t do audio gear repairs? Because he does one thing—restores guitars—and does it very well.
If Obtuse1 on this site gives a recommendation to someone looking for a rebuild on a Rolex, I’m certainly not going to get irritated with him if he tells me my “watch guy” isn’t the person for the job—he has $1/2 Million in watches and knows his shite better than almost anyone I’ve come across when it comes to watches.
It seems as though you aren’t ever going to comprehend this line of thought, and given your response, I believe you have proven me correct.
A true story that relates:
About two years ago, I took my 911 to my friend’s dealership (not Porsche) as he swore he could change the oil—“It’s simple!” he said...Well, they did actually change the oil, but since they were a Chevy dealer that doesn’t ever work on Porsche, much less a 2 year old, current model 911, they had no idea that there was a hatch release cable that runs on a pulley just onside the oil filter, and thus unknowingly knocked the cable off the pulley. Since the problem was discovered a week later when I tried to pop the rear deck lid, I took it to the Porsche dealership—first thing they asked—“Did some other than us recently change the oil, because if so, they probably knocked the cable off the pulley”
Ya see, these guys work on only one kind of car all day and know them inside and out, and his guess, without even looking at it was correct—the cable was off the pulley—so my friends oil change only cost about $1000 ($200 for oil and $800 for Porsche to repair—it’s not an easy fix).
As I stated, your guy may be great for you, but if you bothered to read the frigging thread, you would have easily seen that the OP is interested in doing a complete job, not a fix.
I also prefaced it by stating I didn’t want to “butt heads” with you, but your advice to the OP was not what he seemed to be looking for, and gave a reason why...but you must not have comprehended that.
Since you either did not read the thread, or did not comprehend it, you obviously got sand in your crotch, and thus responded as you did, Sounding like a petulant child with your response, “Whatever makes you feel special though”. Listen, I don’t care about “feeling special” as you say—I care knowing that I’m right—which I am.
Also, your European accent quip doesn’t make sense—seriously, read what you wrote—it’s pretty dumb, considering I’ve never met anyone in a U.S. vintage audio repair shop that speaks with a European accent, or wears a lab coat. Why would a European relocate to the USA (with their lab coat) to make $35k/year fixing old audio gear?...think before you type man.
I believe over the years, that I have proven, on hundreds of occasions on this very board, that I indeed DO KNOW WHAT THE frick I AM TALKING ABOUT when it comes to just about every aspect of consumer high end audio gear...probably more than all 140,000 registered users on this site, if you really want the truth.
But you, well, not only is your guy a master of “ANY” audio gear, but now also is a luthier, and vintage cabinet restorer, and all around “other shite” (your words) fixer too?
Maybe we should get The Fret Shack to chime in on your guys guitar repair work...ever notice Fret Shack doesn’t do audio gear repairs? Because he does one thing—restores guitars—and does it very well.
If Obtuse1 on this site gives a recommendation to someone looking for a rebuild on a Rolex, I’m certainly not going to get irritated with him if he tells me my “watch guy” isn’t the person for the job—he has $1/2 Million in watches and knows his shite better than almost anyone I’ve come across when it comes to watches.
It seems as though you aren’t ever going to comprehend this line of thought, and given your response, I believe you have proven me correct.
Posted on 2/9/20 at 4:12 am to Marco Esquandolas
You are talking about oil for some reason. Has nothing to do with electronics. I didn't even read the rest.
Whatever.
As I told the OP, he can call the guy I know, he might have some extra time, probably not.
You certainly are invested in this. I'm not.
Whatever.
As I told the OP, he can call the guy I know, he might have some extra time, probably not.
You certainly are invested in this. I'm not.
This post was edited on 2/9/20 at 4:35 am
Posted on 2/9/20 at 4:34 am to auggie
If all you got out of that story was “talking about oil”, even after I made the connection, well...I’m at a loss.
I wish you well with the guitar playing. Sounds like you are really enjoying it.
I wish you well with the guitar playing. Sounds like you are really enjoying it.
Posted on 2/9/20 at 4:49 am to Marco Esquandolas
I only read the first couple of lines, from your previous post. About changing oil. I tuned out after that.
I have 3 semis on the road, and a stable of work vehicles, plus our family cars and my toys. Don't bore me.
As I already said before, OP can talk to the guy that I know, or not, I don't give a frick, but you obviously do. Why is that?
It's no skin off your arse, or is it?
I have 3 semis on the road, and a stable of work vehicles, plus our family cars and my toys. Don't bore me.
As I already said before, OP can talk to the guy that I know, or not, I don't give a frick, but you obviously do. Why is that?
It's no skin off your arse, or is it?
Posted on 2/9/20 at 7:31 am to auggie
quote:
I only read the first couple of lines
Seems like you keep doing this...but yet you still make snarky, unintelligent comments toward me.
What does owning 3 semis have to do with this? Or family cars?...I tied mine into something...you did not.
quote:
OP can talk to the guy that I know, or not, I don’t give a frick, but you obviously do. Why is that?
Because the OP came here seeking solid audio advice—that’s why I care. You don’t give a frick (your words), yet you still give your bad suggestion anyway. So the question to you should be “Why did you respond when you claim to not give a frick?”
If you weren’t dumb, and read the posts, you would have seen exactly how the oil change episode tied into the “I gotta guy that can fix anything” recommendation and the lesson of the story.
I have provided ample information and reasons backing all my recommendations in this entire thread, as I always do—you don’t read the entire post to which you comment on, then get agitated when you are called out on speaking out of your arse.
Read the post before commenting—it’s not difficult.
You keep getting owned...stop posting or I’ll have to keep embarrassing you.
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