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Free old guitar... opinions

Posted on 7/23/18 at 11:40 pm
Posted by bgoodwin
Cullman, Al
Member since Sep 2011
602 posts
Posted on 7/23/18 at 11:40 pm
Got this old ugly, rattle can paint job guitar gave to me a few months ago. I brought it home and put it in the closet, thought I might need it for parts some day.


While noodling around on my Strat a couple weeks ago, I decided to plug this weird thing up and see if it even played...not only does it play, it sounds amazing!
No name or number anywhere on it, so I dug around the net until I found it. Turns out, it appears to be a Kay Vanguard, looks like they were made between 1962-66. Ash body, DeArmond humbuckers, 19 fret neck, and Brazilian Rosewood bridge (strange). This neck isn't original, but I really like the shape and finish on it, goofy brass frets and all.


I took it apart, and starting stripping this horrible paint job off it.


Even in great condition, these things aren't worth a ton of money, so I've decided to resto-mod it. With the original bridge in bad condition, and the cost of the missing parts from the tremolo system, I'm thinking of putting a Gibson style stop tailpiece on it. The knobs are super-rare, but I think some chicken heads would look pretty cool on there. Right now, my main hang up is the finish. I'm not near skilled enough to attempt a burst of any kind, but I definitely want to be able to see some grain. Opinions?
Posted by FightinTigersDammit
Louisiana North
Member since Mar 2006
46425 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 5:20 am to
True-oil finish?
Posted by TheFretShack
Member since Oct 2015
1383 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 7:15 am to
I think this neck is original and the headstock was modified. Those Kays were also sold using the brand names Old Kraftsman, Airline and likely other obscure names. I think this is more likely your guitar in original form.



You're correct that it sounds amazing and you really can't replicate those lo-fi 60s tones with anything other than those actual 60s lo-fi pickups. Keep the pickups as is and change components in the harness (pots, caps) only if they are malfunctioning or scratchy sounding beyond refurbishment. Jacks and switches either work or they don't, so you won't affect tone with new/fresh ones.

I'd suspect that body is very thin compared to modern bodies. Keep that in mind as you source replacement hardware and how it mounts to the body. Be ready to source shorter screws, posts, etc.

Those frets are original and that golden, brassy brass look is common for the era. All frets have brass, it's just a question of the chemical makeup/alloys, i.e. how much golden brassy brass in any respective mix.

You need a grain enhancing dye or something of that nature to make it pop a little more. That wood isn't popping naturally and don't expect miracles.

Cool project, cool piece and free's always a win! Enjoy!
Posted by bgoodwin
Cullman, Al
Member since Sep 2011
602 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 7:56 am to
You're right about the body being thin, I'll definitely keep that in mind. I'll try to get back on the sanding tonight, I really want to make this as nice as I can since there isn't any rush.
Posted by bgoodwin
Cullman, Al
Member since Sep 2011
602 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 7:58 am to
Which method/material do you prefer to bring out the grain?
Posted by TheFretShack
Member since Oct 2015
1383 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 8:17 am to
StewMac's Color Tone liquid dyes

Transtint dyes are similar to the above and can sometimes be sourced cheaper. But read the StewMac page first so you can get a better idea of what and how to mix, applications, where to use, what to expect ...

Keep in mind you can't expect to turn cosmetically lackluster wood to begin with into 10-top grade flame maple. Maintain realistic expectations.

If you use the stuff above, it is very concentrated so experiment with scrap to determine ratios. And wear latex gloves - it's called a dye for a reason haha.

Here's purple Transtint being mixed with nitrocellulose lacquer and thinner for cosmetic patch work on a custom shop Les Paul ...





This post was edited on 7/24/18 at 8:19 am
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
27872 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 9:15 am to
Whats the front button or knob on there?
Posted by TheFretShack
Member since Oct 2015
1383 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 9:41 am to
If you mean on the original guitar, based on the harness photo, it looks like the knobs are tone/volume/tone/volume considering the first and third potentiometers have piggyback capacitors.
This post was edited on 7/24/18 at 9:44 am
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
27872 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 9:53 am to
Input jack/ 3 knobs/ whats in front of the 3 knobs?

Nevermind...

As I typed that I saw what you wrote. Just looks weird lined up like a strat or 3 pickup system and wired like a LP. Makes sense though.

OP should be careful with that pickguard? Or is it easily replaceable? My guess is it is not.

I was gonna say a woodstain last night but fell asleep. Missed a chance to sound guitar savvy and have Fret Shack agree with ME. Instead of the usual explaining things TO me.
Posted by MountainTiger
The foot of Mt. Belzoni
Member since Dec 2008
14974 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 10:07 am to
quote:

Input jack/ 3 knobs/ whats in front of the 3 knobs?

It's just another knob but it's missing the lock nut so it looks different.
Posted by bgoodwin
Cullman, Al
Member since Sep 2011
602 posts
Posted on 7/24/18 at 11:02 am to
Careful with the pickguard, for sure. I've looked around a bit, the prices folks ask for original parts are crazy, considering its a pretty low value guitar. Pickups $100 each, decent original knobs for $40-60...no thanks.
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