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Wiring a shed for a 220v 170 amp welder
Posted on 1/27/20 at 10:52 am
Posted on 1/27/20 at 10:52 am
What size wire is needed? The run will be about 50' from my breaker box. And what size breakers will be needed? Thanks
7
Posted on 1/27/20 at 11:36 am to Bedhog
6/3
Posted on 1/27/20 at 11:53 am to TigerSprings
will I have to run 2 runs of it for 220 or does it have enough wires in there for just 1 run?
Posted on 1/27/20 at 11:59 am to TigerSprings
Are you going to have any other outlets / lights in the shed?
Welder probably takes a 50 amp circuit, if just the welder 6/3 should work. If you are adding any other circuits in the shed you may need to go down to 4/3 or lower depending on what breaker you are putting in to feed the sub panel in the shed.
Welder probably takes a 50 amp circuit, if just the welder 6/3 should work. If you are adding any other circuits in the shed you may need to go down to 4/3 or lower depending on what breaker you are putting in to feed the sub panel in the shed.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:01 pm to td1
yes ,LED lights. Very low current draw. Have 2 30 amp breakers for the panel.
here's the welder specs. Just a cheapo Harbor freight mig welder.
here's the welder specs. Just a cheapo Harbor freight mig welder.
This post was edited on 1/27/20 at 12:03 pm
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:01 pm to td1
6/3 has three 6 guage and a ground wire. That will give you two hots a neutral and a ground.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:03 pm to td1
quote:gotcha. Thank you for the help
6/3 has three 6 guage and a ground wire. That will give you two hots a neutral and a ground.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:09 pm to td1
quote:
yes ,LED lights. Very low current draw. Have 2 30 amp breakers for the panel.
Are you putting a sub panel in the shed or just running two circuits?
If it was me I would put a sub panel in the shed and wire for the possible future capacity for a 50 amp breaker for the welder and two additional 20 amp circuits.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:11 pm to td1
I wasn't planning on putting a sub panel in the shed. Seems kinda overkill for what I'm wanting. I have a drill press, some saws and will every once in a while be running the welder. Was just going to branch off the 220 socket with a run of 12 2 romex for the other 110 outlets.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:18 pm to Bedhog
That would be a very, very bad idea.
Put in a sub panel with the proper breaker for the welder and the proper breaker for the other outlets.
An electrician may be your best option.
Put in a sub panel with the proper breaker for the welder and the proper breaker for the other outlets.
An electrician may be your best option.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:21 pm to td1
quote:I'm trying to understand why? My main breaker box is located outside my home and has spots for extra breakers. I have conduit already buried to my shed from that panel. Why would I need more breakers in the shed? Seems redundant
That would be a very, very bad idea.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:43 pm to Bedhog
When I did our shed for the camp house I ran 4\3 plus 6ga ground. We rented a trencher and put wire 36" deep and about 10 feet away we ran a water line about 18" deep.
Run is about 125' and we run a small mig, plus a refrigerator, lights and a few plugs. I think the panel has a 100amp main breaker.
Spend a few bucks more and never have to worry or redo it.
Run is about 125' and we run a small mig, plus a refrigerator, lights and a few plugs. I think the panel has a 100amp main breaker.
Spend a few bucks more and never have to worry or redo it.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:43 pm to Bedhog
The shed should have had its own sub panel from the beginning if it has power currently. It is a separate structure and has a few requirements as such from the NEC (National Electric Code). One of which is you have to have a circuit disconnect at that building. If you already have a circuit run out there that say runs only a light, the light switch counts as a disconnect at the building. It is when you go adding other circuits that you fall into a little different area as far as code requirements on a separate structure even with all the residential exceptions. Seeing as you are wanting to add 220V out there, I don't see how you get around adding a sub panel to the shed.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 12:53 pm to Bedhog
170A sounds a bit high. That would require its own residential sized service for that amperage.
Many welding outlets are in the 30A-40A range.
Many welding outlets are in the 30A-40A range.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 1:05 pm to notsince98
I think the welder can do 170 amps, not the supply amperage the welder requires to run. From the specs posted above it looks like it only has a 20 amp nameplate amperage.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 1:09 pm to td1
quote:correct. 170 dc amps
I think the welder can do 170 amps, not the supply amperage the welder requires to run. From the specs posted above it looks like it only has a 20 amp nameplate amperage.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 1:10 pm to td1
quote:Alright then. You've convinced me.
The shed should have had its own sub panel from the beginning if it has power currently. It is a separate structure and has a few requirements as such from the NEC (National Electric Code). One of which is you have to have a circuit disconnect at that building. If you already have a circuit run out there that say runs only a light, the light switch counts as a disconnect at the building. It is when you go adding other circuits that you fall into a little different area as far as code requirements on a separate structure even with all the residential exceptions. Seeing as you are wanting to add 220V out there, I don't see how you get around adding a sub panel to the shed.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 1:14 pm to td1
I am not an electrician, but went through this with one on one of our past houses.
We were required to have the correct breaker sized to feed the sub panel in the detached structure. The panel in the detached structure needed to be service entrance rated, the main breaker for that panel needed to be slightly less than the breaker from the main panel (I know doesn't make sense but it was what the inspector said was required). Then the detached bldg needed to have its own ground rod, and it was explained to me that is what prompted the service entrance rated panel since the ground and neutral can be bonded in those.
The main thing we had to accommodate to meet code was the fact the building was detached from the main house.
There was some discussion on us being able to do it slightly different if it was 6 circuits are less, but less circuits were not going to work for what we needed.
We were required to have the correct breaker sized to feed the sub panel in the detached structure. The panel in the detached structure needed to be service entrance rated, the main breaker for that panel needed to be slightly less than the breaker from the main panel (I know doesn't make sense but it was what the inspector said was required). Then the detached bldg needed to have its own ground rod, and it was explained to me that is what prompted the service entrance rated panel since the ground and neutral can be bonded in those.
The main thing we had to accommodate to meet code was the fact the building was detached from the main house.
There was some discussion on us being able to do it slightly different if it was 6 circuits are less, but less circuits were not going to work for what we needed.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 1:17 pm to td1
quote:
I think the welder can do 170 amps, not the supply amperage the welder requires to run. From the specs posted above it looks like it only has a 20 amp nameplate amperage.
Now it is making more sense.
Posted on 1/27/20 at 1:18 pm to td1
How big is the shed? You may want to size the sub panel to future proof yourself. It may be a little more upfront cost now, but a hell of a lot easier than ripping out and rewiring down the road.
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