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Spinoff: What fertilizer do you use for magnolias (DD Blanchards in my case) & how often?
Posted on 9/24/25 at 3:04 pm
Posted on 9/24/25 at 3:04 pm
I've got three that are going on 2 years old (planted at about 8-10 ft tall) and they look healthy and flower, etc., but they aren't growing taller or filling out more.
I've used Holly Tone granules dumped along the drip line and on the base of the tree a couple times a year (Spring and Fall), but it doesn't seem to be encouraging growth as much as I'd hoped. This is a privacy from neighbors thing, so I'm hoping to get these things filling out over the next year or so.
Do I just need to do this monthly or something? Is there a better fertilizer or application mechanism like stakes?
I've used Holly Tone granules dumped along the drip line and on the base of the tree a couple times a year (Spring and Fall), but it doesn't seem to be encouraging growth as much as I'd hoped. This is a privacy from neighbors thing, so I'm hoping to get these things filling out over the next year or so.
Do I just need to do this monthly or something? Is there a better fertilizer or application mechanism like stakes?
3
Posted on 9/26/25 at 1:19 am to CatfishJohn
13-13-13 and Ironite. Knock holes three around the tree, then one between those holes. A total of 6, 13-13-13 in one, Ironite in the next, continue around the tree. If we have a bunch of rain showing for days, that’s the best time.
If you look down in the thread, “ Best fertilizer for Live Oaks,”. Look at my last post in the thread.
If you look down in the thread, “ Best fertilizer for Live Oaks,”. Look at my last post in the thread.
This post was edited on 9/26/25 at 1:25 am
Posted on 9/26/25 at 5:36 am to LSUDad
quote:
13-13-13 and Ironite. Knock holes three around the tree, then one between those holes. A total of 6, 13-13-13 in one, Ironite in the next, continue around the tree. If we have a bunch of rain showing for days, that’s the best time.
If you look down in the thread, “ Best fertilizer for Live Oaks,”. Look at my last post in the thread.
How often do you apply?
Is it acceptable to do this all year long? Only during spring / summer vs winter? etc.?
Posted on 9/26/25 at 7:08 am to CatfishJohn
They’re about to take off.
Year 1: sleep
Year2: creep
Year3: leap
Year 1: sleep
Year2: creep
Year3: leap
Posted on 9/26/25 at 8:44 am to Ziggy
I do it starting in Jan, but like I said, if you are looking at a number of days rain, that’s the best time. Remember 13 is a fertilizer, Ironite is a trace mineral, the Iron helps with a number of things within the tree.
Start in Jan, watch the growth. I back off during the winter.
Start in Jan, watch the growth. I back off during the winter.
This post was edited on 9/26/25 at 8:46 am
Posted on 9/26/25 at 9:40 am to CatfishJohn
As stated by Kool it does take a few years for most newly planted trees & shrubs to to become established, develop a larger & healthy root system, before growth takes off.
LSU Ag Center recommendation would be to fertilize trees in south LA in February, ideally with a balanced fertilizer with a slow release form of nitrogen, with micronutrients. Something like a LESCO 14-14-14 polycoat. A portion of the nitrogen fertilizer is coated with a polymer (other similar fertlizers with sulfur) to slowly release the nitrogen over 3 or 4 months. A typical 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 vegetable fertilizer, though cheaper, releases all its nitrogen quickly, and does not contain many micronutrients.
The general recommendation would be an apply 2 pounds of the balanced fertilizer per inch diameter of tree trunk, 4 feet above soil grade. For example, tree trunk 4 inches in diameter 4 feet above soil grade then 8 pounds of fertilizer. Apply along the outer edges of the tree canopy, i.e., drip line, where the majority if the small feeder roots are located.
You can break up the total application amount and apply a 1/3 of the total in Feb, 1/3 in May, and a 1/3 in August - or apply it all at once in February - your choice - but the split application will help with nitrogen supply throughout the growing season while the trees are young.
Short 2 min LSU AgCenter video
Pruning & Fertilizing Trees - LSU AgCenter
If you want lots of detail this article from Clemson University is excellent.
Fertilizing Trees & Shrubs
LSU Ag Center recommendation would be to fertilize trees in south LA in February, ideally with a balanced fertilizer with a slow release form of nitrogen, with micronutrients. Something like a LESCO 14-14-14 polycoat. A portion of the nitrogen fertilizer is coated with a polymer (other similar fertlizers with sulfur) to slowly release the nitrogen over 3 or 4 months. A typical 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 vegetable fertilizer, though cheaper, releases all its nitrogen quickly, and does not contain many micronutrients.
The general recommendation would be an apply 2 pounds of the balanced fertilizer per inch diameter of tree trunk, 4 feet above soil grade. For example, tree trunk 4 inches in diameter 4 feet above soil grade then 8 pounds of fertilizer. Apply along the outer edges of the tree canopy, i.e., drip line, where the majority if the small feeder roots are located.
You can break up the total application amount and apply a 1/3 of the total in Feb, 1/3 in May, and a 1/3 in August - or apply it all at once in February - your choice - but the split application will help with nitrogen supply throughout the growing season while the trees are young.
Short 2 min LSU AgCenter video
Pruning & Fertilizing Trees - LSU AgCenter
If you want lots of detail this article from Clemson University is excellent.
Fertilizing Trees & Shrubs
This post was edited on 9/26/25 at 9:54 am
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