- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Soil test results - Low nitrogen
Posted on 4/12/24 at 3:59 pm
Posted on 4/12/24 at 3:59 pm
Got these today. Obviously need to add some nitrogen.
Does anyone have a recommendation other than what they're telling me? I can't find either of those locally.
See anything else i should do?
Does anyone have a recommendation other than what they're telling me? I can't find either of those locally.
See anything else i should do?
Posted on 4/12/24 at 4:46 pm to billjamin
I’m reading and listening to some interesting stuff right now where Dr. Shaddux at UF essentially states that nothing matters but nitrogen.
And all lawns will be nitrogen depleted in the spring until you feed it.
And all lawns will be nitrogen depleted in the spring until you feed it.
Posted on 4/12/24 at 5:03 pm to bayoubengals88
To be honest, and this is my opinion only, if your ph is good then you don’t need a soil test. I moved in my house, new build, in 2018. Never considered a soil test. Mowed and watered correctly and hammered it with nitrogen.
I have clients that ask for a soil test and I tell them your lawn is not like your kid, it ain’t special. Fert, water, mow, aerate.
I have clients that ask for a soil test and I tell them your lawn is not like your kid, it ain’t special. Fert, water, mow, aerate.
Posted on 4/12/24 at 7:30 pm to ronk
This seems to be tracking exactly with what he promotes.
Needs for a lawn in order:
1. Water
2. Sun
3. Mowing
4. Insecticide
5. Nitrogen
(If I recall)
Edit: Here it is
Needs for a lawn in order:
1. Water
2. Sun
3. Mowing
4. Insecticide
5. Nitrogen
(If I recall)
Edit: Here it is
This post was edited on 4/12/24 at 9:14 pm
Posted on 4/12/24 at 8:39 pm to billjamin
21-0-0 ammonium sulfate
SiteOne has bags of them
SiteOne has bags of them
Posted on 4/12/24 at 9:13 pm to reauxl tigers
quote:
21-0-0 ammonium sulfate
I assume I would apply a slightly lower rate than the ones they recommend because it’s higher nitrogen content?
Posted on 4/12/24 at 9:13 pm to bayoubengals88
quote:
I’m reading and listening to some interesting stuff right now where Dr. Shaddux at UF essentially states that nothing matters but nitrogen.
He’s wrong if he’s not factoring in compaction or soil composition as considerations.
St Aug for example if you have heavy clay compacted soil you can apply nitrogen all you want but the roots won’t find it because they can’t establish properly.
He could well be correct assuming the soil is within acceptable parameters though.
Posted on 4/12/24 at 9:19 pm to tide06
I’m sure he addresses that too, but all I was really trying to quote him on is the overwhelming importance of nitrogen above all other macro and micronutrients.
I saw him referencing studies that really downplay the importance of K in bermudagrass.
But as you can see, my updated post references soil fertility which would include compaction. Point is, water, sun, temp, matter more.
Bottom line: soil tests are completely unnecessary
I saw him referencing studies that really downplay the importance of K in bermudagrass.
But as you can see, my updated post references soil fertility which would include compaction. Point is, water, sun, temp, matter more.
Bottom line: soil tests are completely unnecessary
Posted on 4/12/24 at 9:21 pm to billjamin
quote:Yes. What kind of grass do you have?
I assume I would apply a slightly lower rate than the ones they recommend because it’s higher nitrogen content?
Posted on 4/12/24 at 9:24 pm to bayoubengals88
quote:
Yes. What kind of grass do you have?
St aug
Posted on 4/12/24 at 9:57 pm to billjamin
Most land-grant university soil testing labs, including the LSU AgCenter, do not not measure/report soil N concentrations, associated with lawn fertilization recommendations, it’s a labile chemical and a single snapshot measurement has little value in lawn fertilization recommendations.
St Augustine - Deep South - 2 or 3 applications of 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft per growing season, e..g., 25-x-x, equates, to 4 lbs of fertilizer per 1000 sq ft. So applications in mid-April, mid-June, maybe mid-August if warranted.
ronk is correct, by and large, soil pH is the only number you need to know, all the other measurements are there to impress, and confuse, the general lay person.
St Augustine - Deep South - 2 or 3 applications of 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft per growing season, e..g., 25-x-x, equates, to 4 lbs of fertilizer per 1000 sq ft. So applications in mid-April, mid-June, maybe mid-August if warranted.
ronk is correct, by and large, soil pH is the only number you need to know, all the other measurements are there to impress, and confuse, the general lay person.
This post was edited on 4/13/24 at 2:07 pm
Posted on 4/12/24 at 10:03 pm to billjamin
quote:
I assume I would apply a slightly lower rate than the ones they recommend because it’s higher nitrogen content?
Correct - divide 21 into 100 and that is the amount of 21–0-0 required to supply 1 lb of N per 1000 sq ft of lawn.
Posted on 4/13/24 at 12:57 am to billjamin
If you want to apply right at that .8lbs of N per 1000 they recommend, those 50lb bags of APF 21-0-0 they have at SiteOne should cover about 12,500 sqr ft.
Posted on 4/13/24 at 8:07 am to bayoubengals88
quote:
I saw him referencing studies that really downplay the importance of K in bermudagrass. But as you can see, my updated post references soil fertility which would include compaction. Point is, water, sun, temp, matter more.
With you 100%.
St Aug is just different and any sort of serious compaction makes it impossible to get it thick and healthy in my experience. You see a lot of this happen with new construction where they strip the topsoil and replace it with red clay to get a stable base which is compacted all to hell because they run heavy equipment on it during the build process. Then they just drop sod on top of the clay when they’re done knowing that it’ll look fine long enough to get it sold before it thins out and the new owner doesn’t know why.
I’m a couple seasons in and have already had a pro group come in with great reviews and other lawns that are perfect: looked like crap.
I aerated a couple times then talked with a professor of turf science from UF, followed all of his recommendations for a season from a treatment standpoint: grass still stagnated.
Now I’ve deep core aerated and am going heavy with topdressing and incorporating organic matter. Hopefully it’ll pop.
My other spot has Bermuda growing in sandy soil and it’s hard to even keep up with cutting it.
Bottom line I’ll never opt for St Aug again.
It’ll be Zoysia or Bermuda for me from here on out and I’d only lean Zoysia because I prefer to be able to leave the grass longer than what you typically see from Bermuda.
This post was edited on 4/13/24 at 8:10 am
Posted on 4/13/24 at 8:29 am to tide06
What is a good pH target number?
Posted on 4/13/24 at 9:17 am to Bayou
A middling ph number is 6.5
That’s a good target.
That’s a good target.
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News