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Message
School me on outdoor painting
Posted on 6/13/24 at 6:06 am
Posted on 6/13/24 at 6:06 am
My house is about 10 years old and the paint is cracking on the windowsills that see direct sunlight a good bit of the day. I was going to go ahead and deal with this myself, but had a few questions.
- Should you just paint the entire outside at once, window frames, siding, everything? Or is it ok to just do the window frames, sills? I would probably hire someone to do the siding if I need to do it all now. There are really no issues with the paint on the siding that I can see.
- For the frames, sills is the process sand down the spots with cracked paint, give it a quick pressure wash, tape the edges, then paint over the sanded and painted areas?
- What is the best brand paint for this? What's the best brush to use? It's about a 4" thick trim around the frame and about 4" wide windowsill.
Any other tips, tricks, links would be appreciated.
- Should you just paint the entire outside at once, window frames, siding, everything? Or is it ok to just do the window frames, sills? I would probably hire someone to do the siding if I need to do it all now. There are really no issues with the paint on the siding that I can see.
- For the frames, sills is the process sand down the spots with cracked paint, give it a quick pressure wash, tape the edges, then paint over the sanded and painted areas?
- What is the best brand paint for this? What's the best brush to use? It's about a 4" thick trim around the frame and about 4" wide windowsill.
Any other tips, tricks, links would be appreciated.
3
Posted on 6/13/24 at 8:57 am to JL
Pressure washer before so you have a clean surface for paint to stick to. If wood/vinyl siding you should be able to spray right on without needing primer.
Do all the edges/trim/small sections first. Prep the siding by putting tape or doing the edges by hand. Go with a paint sprayer for the rest.
Do all the edges/trim/small sections first. Prep the siding by putting tape or doing the edges by hand. Go with a paint sprayer for the rest.
Posted on 6/13/24 at 11:57 am to JL
Am curious about this as well as I want to do some updated, but I have heard you do this the other way around
The pressure wash can act as a sanding, plus it may exposure rotted wood that needs to be replaced. Then you can save on sanding the pieces you may need to replace, and the sanding will give you the texture you want after the pressure wash.
I would think if you are hiring someone, just rip off the band aide and get it done all at once. Bigger job increases chance of them showing up, piecemeal could cause a higher total because of minimal spend costs.
If you are doing yourself, I would imagine you would be fine doing it one color project at a time and possibly breaking it down over 2-3 projects
quote:
sand down the spots with cracked paint, give it a quick pressure wash
The pressure wash can act as a sanding, plus it may exposure rotted wood that needs to be replaced. Then you can save on sanding the pieces you may need to replace, and the sanding will give you the texture you want after the pressure wash.
quote:
Should you just paint the entire outside at once, window frames, siding, everything? Or is it ok to just do the window frames, sills? I would probably hire someone to do the siding if I need to do it all now. There are really no issues with the paint on the siding that I can see.
I would think if you are hiring someone, just rip off the band aide and get it done all at once. Bigger job increases chance of them showing up, piecemeal could cause a higher total because of minimal spend costs.
If you are doing yourself, I would imagine you would be fine doing it one color project at a time and possibly breaking it down over 2-3 projects
Posted on 6/13/24 at 12:50 pm to JL
I've done more than my fair share of exterior house painting and this is my go-to method.
If the house is dirty or has mildew/mold issues I use a mix of Jomax and bleach in a pump sprayer and do fairly large sections at a time by first spraying on the detergent, letting it sit for several minutes and then using my pressure washer to remove it and the grime. Repeat those steps until the whole house is done.
To prep the wood I will use a Makita 5 inch disc sander/grinder with the necessary grit disc, and that depends on how checked the paint is. If the paint is thick and peeling in many spots I use a 24 grit to cut the paint off the wood. If it is lightly flaking and mostly stuck to the structure, I'll use a 50 grit.
If you've never used one of these disc sanders before, you need to be mindful that the more aggressive the grit, the easier it is to cut into the wood and make nasty swirl marks. I've perfected my technique to where it looks like I used a regular sander when I'm done, but it takes time to get to that level.
You will also need some good scrapers to get any paint off the underside of the weather boards and remove any loose caulk.
After I'm done with the sanding I will hose off the siding to remove any dust from the sanding process and allow the wood to dry out good.
For priming I like to use an oil based primer and if using a color besides white for the final house color, I'll have my prime half tinted to the color I'm getting for the house and when I put on the final coats I can see where the final coat of paint is covering. After the primer is dried, I will caulk and fill any nail holes and then lightly sand any freshly primed areas to make the surface uniformly smooth for the final coat/coats.
To apply the paint, I'm old school and for the body I roll it on and then brush it out as I go. Start at the top, roll on the paint to get a good amount of paint on the surface and then brush it out to smooth the roller stipple.
If your house is 1 story, start by painting about half the boards from the top down and go from front to back to cover the entire run at the same time. If you stop halfway and pick it up the next day you WILL see where you started and stopped. This is especially important if the weather is hot like it is now since the paint will dry out fast once on the siding, so it is critical that you work fast, but safely.
Rinse and repeat to finish each side until done. I do trim last.
For paint, I use Sherwin Williams products with the top coat/coats being a latex with a slight sheen. I don't like flat since I find dirt will tend to stick better to it and I don't like real shiny paint-----it's just not pleasing to my eye and looks dated like back in the day when oil base was the go-to for house paint.
OK that should get you started. Good luck, but if I were you, I'd wait until fall when the weather is cooler.
If the house is dirty or has mildew/mold issues I use a mix of Jomax and bleach in a pump sprayer and do fairly large sections at a time by first spraying on the detergent, letting it sit for several minutes and then using my pressure washer to remove it and the grime. Repeat those steps until the whole house is done.
To prep the wood I will use a Makita 5 inch disc sander/grinder with the necessary grit disc, and that depends on how checked the paint is. If the paint is thick and peeling in many spots I use a 24 grit to cut the paint off the wood. If it is lightly flaking and mostly stuck to the structure, I'll use a 50 grit.
If you've never used one of these disc sanders before, you need to be mindful that the more aggressive the grit, the easier it is to cut into the wood and make nasty swirl marks. I've perfected my technique to where it looks like I used a regular sander when I'm done, but it takes time to get to that level.
You will also need some good scrapers to get any paint off the underside of the weather boards and remove any loose caulk.
After I'm done with the sanding I will hose off the siding to remove any dust from the sanding process and allow the wood to dry out good.
For priming I like to use an oil based primer and if using a color besides white for the final house color, I'll have my prime half tinted to the color I'm getting for the house and when I put on the final coats I can see where the final coat of paint is covering. After the primer is dried, I will caulk and fill any nail holes and then lightly sand any freshly primed areas to make the surface uniformly smooth for the final coat/coats.
To apply the paint, I'm old school and for the body I roll it on and then brush it out as I go. Start at the top, roll on the paint to get a good amount of paint on the surface and then brush it out to smooth the roller stipple.
If your house is 1 story, start by painting about half the boards from the top down and go from front to back to cover the entire run at the same time. If you stop halfway and pick it up the next day you WILL see where you started and stopped. This is especially important if the weather is hot like it is now since the paint will dry out fast once on the siding, so it is critical that you work fast, but safely.
Rinse and repeat to finish each side until done. I do trim last.
For paint, I use Sherwin Williams products with the top coat/coats being a latex with a slight sheen. I don't like flat since I find dirt will tend to stick better to it and I don't like real shiny paint-----it's just not pleasing to my eye and looks dated like back in the day when oil base was the go-to for house paint.
OK that should get you started. Good luck, but if I were you, I'd wait until fall when the weather is cooler.
This post was edited on 6/13/24 at 12:54 pm
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