- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Replacing HVAC Furnace?
Posted on 12/15/22 at 12:54 pm
Posted on 12/15/22 at 12:54 pm
Current furnace is 19 years old. If I don't use the heater for a long time (>3-4 weeks), then it has issues blowing heat when it first kicks back on. Had to recently get a tech out here to take a look as it cycled a dozen times and would never blow heat. Tech gave me some options of replacing the control board, flare sensor, and something else that SHOULD fix the issue at hand, totaling ~$1,200. He also said furnace life is about 20 years so I may as well look at a replacement since the fix above would be a bandaid for only the issue at hand. Additional issues may pop up with an aging furnace. Should I just bite the bullet and go for a new one? Getting a quote this afternoon but I was told to expect $4k-$10k depending on how fancy I wanted to get. I assume the lowest end option would still be light years better than the 20 yr old one I have now.
5
Posted on 12/15/22 at 1:44 pm to TigerTatorTots
Tech should be able to troubleshoot the issue by testing the control ckt point to point until he finds the device stopping the gas valve from actuating and lighting the furnace. I don’t think he should be just replacing a bunch of stuff all at once without a good reason. On some furnaces there is a an error code light that will flash when it won’t start; check the light sequence against the model number and it might give you a good idea what’s wrong.
If I had to guess the control board is the most money, so at least consider replacing the smaller parts (flame sensor and whatever else) before being scared off by the $1200 price tag. Again he should be able to follow out the control ckt at least to the point where it stops getting voltage to identify at least the first issue. Or maybe at very least give a good reason why he can’t accomplish that. Just my 2 cents.
If I had to guess the control board is the most money, so at least consider replacing the smaller parts (flame sensor and whatever else) before being scared off by the $1200 price tag. Again he should be able to follow out the control ckt at least to the point where it stops getting voltage to identify at least the first issue. Or maybe at very least give a good reason why he can’t accomplish that. Just my 2 cents.
Posted on 12/15/22 at 4:32 pm to TigerTatorTots
Electric or gas?
If gas does the burner light?
Is the fan turning on and blowing but no heat?
Posted on 12/15/22 at 5:10 pm to btrcj
Gas
Don’t think the burner lights
Fan blows ambient air, no hot air, until I turn off the unit
Don’t think the burner lights
Fan blows ambient air, no hot air, until I turn off the unit
Posted on 12/15/22 at 5:57 pm to TigerTatorTots
Gorilla coco has provided good advice.
An experienced diagnostician oriented HVAC tech should be able to diagnosis the specific part(s) in the furnace causing the issue with a multimeter and maybe another couple tools, and not tell you replacing “x” “should” fix the issue - there really aren’t that many parts on a residential gas furnace to diagnose, particularly one that has a consistent issue as yours, vs an intermittent issue.
And as gorillacoco stated most control boards on furnaces do have light indicators to help troubleshoot a fault within the unit - my 15 year old gas furnace does - but it’s possible yours at 19 years of age does not.
But the tech was correct in stating a 19 year furnace is near its expected life expectancy - the heat exchanger in the furnace is usually warranted for 20 years, so even with the repair you are looking at having to replace the furnace sooner than later, but you could have several+ more years life in that unit.
How old is the outside condensing unit and indoor cased evaporator coil attached to the furnace? 19 years as well or more recent?
I’d personally consider getting a second opinion from a senior HVAC tech with another company or from the same company you used, assuming it was a large company with numerous techs. The fact that the tech told you $1200 “should” fix the furnace as opposed to “will” fix the furnace is cause for concern.
An experienced diagnostician oriented HVAC tech should be able to diagnosis the specific part(s) in the furnace causing the issue with a multimeter and maybe another couple tools, and not tell you replacing “x” “should” fix the issue - there really aren’t that many parts on a residential gas furnace to diagnose, particularly one that has a consistent issue as yours, vs an intermittent issue.
And as gorillacoco stated most control boards on furnaces do have light indicators to help troubleshoot a fault within the unit - my 15 year old gas furnace does - but it’s possible yours at 19 years of age does not.
But the tech was correct in stating a 19 year furnace is near its expected life expectancy - the heat exchanger in the furnace is usually warranted for 20 years, so even with the repair you are looking at having to replace the furnace sooner than later, but you could have several+ more years life in that unit.
How old is the outside condensing unit and indoor cased evaporator coil attached to the furnace? 19 years as well or more recent?
I’d personally consider getting a second opinion from a senior HVAC tech with another company or from the same company you used, assuming it was a large company with numerous techs. The fact that the tech told you $1200 “should” fix the furnace as opposed to “will” fix the furnace is cause for concern.
This post was edited on 12/15/22 at 7:30 pm
Posted on 12/15/22 at 7:26 pm to TigerTatorTots
As everyone has said, you need someone who can trouble shoot the problem not guess.
I can guess as good as the tech did.
Could be the board, igniter, sensor, gas valve etc. You did eliminate the blower.
My system is 31 years old. I have replace the control board twice and keep a spare on hand. A couple weeks ago my blower would not start. Board swap did not fix it so called out a tech. He replaced the starter cap and it is back to good. Every time I have had a problem I say I need to replace the whole system but I keep fixing the damn thing so I will keep running it. I am kind of hesitant to replace it.
I can guess as good as the tech did.
Could be the board, igniter, sensor, gas valve etc. You did eliminate the blower.
My system is 31 years old. I have replace the control board twice and keep a spare on hand. A couple weeks ago my blower would not start. Board swap did not fix it so called out a tech. He replaced the starter cap and it is back to good. Every time I have had a problem I say I need to replace the whole system but I keep fixing the damn thing so I will keep running it. I am kind of hesitant to replace it.
Posted on 12/15/22 at 8:15 pm to CrawDude
quote:Outside unit is much newer circa 2015
How old is the outside condensing unit and indoor cased evaporator coil attached to the furnace? 19 years as well or more recent?
Good advice, appreciate it
Posted on 12/15/22 at 8:36 pm to TigerTatorTots
I'll give you this tip.
Our gas furnace/condensing unit was original to our house when we replaced it in 2018, it was 25 years old. The company I hired replaced the furnace in my garage and my condensing unit out back. While they were doing the change out, I reached up and grabbed the vent/exhaust pipe and squeezed. That freaking thing crumbled in my hands. It was a single wall exhaust pipe and wasn't a part of their original quote to replace. I had them replace it as a change order and they installed a double wall pipe. I have no idea if some of that exhaust was staying in our garage. I didn't notice any holes in it and aren't really sure why I reached out and squeezed that pipe but am glad I did.
Our gas furnace/condensing unit was original to our house when we replaced it in 2018, it was 25 years old. The company I hired replaced the furnace in my garage and my condensing unit out back. While they were doing the change out, I reached up and grabbed the vent/exhaust pipe and squeezed. That freaking thing crumbled in my hands. It was a single wall exhaust pipe and wasn't a part of their original quote to replace. I had them replace it as a change order and they installed a double wall pipe. I have no idea if some of that exhaust was staying in our garage. I didn't notice any holes in it and aren't really sure why I reached out and squeezed that pipe but am glad I did.
Posted on 12/16/22 at 7:45 am to Hamma1122
quote:
He said furnace. Gas DUH
Well educate me. What is the inside electric heating unit called.
Posted on 12/16/22 at 7:54 am to TigerTatorTots
quote:
Outside unit is much newer circa 2015
With the rest of the HVAC system being fairly new (7 years old), if you do get a second opinion and it looked like the repair cost would be $2K or more you certainly should consider replacing the furnace given the age of the current one. If so, you should request the new furnace be a AHRI match to the current condensing unit to get max efficiency and SEER rating.
But sounds like you going need some heat pretty quick with the present weather forecast, whatever direction you decide to go.
Posted on 12/16/22 at 2:13 pm to TigerTatorTots
I "fix" mine every year. 3 simple culprits:
1. Exhaust fan pressure sensor - it's usually this, dust or whatever clogs it up. I pull the little tube and sensor, blow in and out to make sure it's clicking, then a small pipe cleaner up in the place it attaches to the fan housing.
2. Ignitor - had to replace last year, cheap and easy. Just watch it start up, if it doesn't glow, replace it.
3. Thermostat - if the gas lights up but goes off after a minute and it's not the other 2 things, could be this.
My Goodman panel has blinking light trouble codes, that is what pointed me to the pressure sensor the first time.
1. Exhaust fan pressure sensor - it's usually this, dust or whatever clogs it up. I pull the little tube and sensor, blow in and out to make sure it's clicking, then a small pipe cleaner up in the place it attaches to the fan housing.
2. Ignitor - had to replace last year, cheap and easy. Just watch it start up, if it doesn't glow, replace it.
3. Thermostat - if the gas lights up but goes off after a minute and it's not the other 2 things, could be this.
My Goodman panel has blinking light trouble codes, that is what pointed me to the pressure sensor the first time.
Posted on 12/17/22 at 10:12 am to btrcj
quote:
Well educate me. What is the inside electric heating unit called.
It’s an honest mistake - I didn’t know the proper terminology myself until recently as HVAC professionals will refer to furnaces, air handlers, fan-coils for the “metal box” inside the house that contains a blower inside it to distribute air throughout the house.
A unit that utilizes gas (propane, natural gas) and combustion and flame to provide and distribute heat throughout the home is called a “furnace” in the residential HVAC industry. Attached to the furnace on the downstream air supply side is a cased/or non-cased evaporator coil, contained in its own separate box (cased coil) or inside the supply plenum (uncased coil), that provides cooling.
The metal box that has the blower, electrical resistance heating elements (= heat strips) to provide heat, plus an evaporator coil inside it to provide cooling, is referred to as an “air handler” or “fan coil” in the residential HVAC trade.
TL:DR : gas heating = furnace; electrical strip heating = air handler or fan coil.
This post was edited on 12/17/22 at 1:17 pm
Posted on 12/17/22 at 12:01 pm to TigerTatorTots
quote:I had a 31 year old Ruud in the house I purchased in Auburn that I replaced in 2019 because it just gave out. I'm a miser, so I might consider rolling the dice on fixes in your situation.
Current furnace is 19 years old. If I don't use the heater for a long time (>3-4 weeks), then it has issues blowing heat when it first kicks back on. Had to recently get a tech out here to take a look as it cycled a dozen times and would never blow heat. Tech gave me some options of replacing the control board, flare sensor, and something else that SHOULD fix the issue at hand, totaling ~$1,200. He also said furnace life is about 20 years so I may as well look at a replacement since the fix above would be a bandaid for only the issue at hand. Additional issues may pop up with an aging furnace. Should I just bite the bullet and go for a new one? Getting a quote this afternoon but I was told to expect $4k-$10k depending on how fancy I wanted to get. I assume the lowest end option would still be light years better than the 20 yr old one I have now.
I replaced my Ruud with a Bryant 14 Seer for $5.8K before things got crazy on price. I went lower Seer because this house was built in 1965 and I'm not there full time. If your house is older, IMO, it makes no sense to pay for a higher seer system because the efficiency is going out the windows. If you can get a replacement close to the $4k you mentioned I'd probably do that begrudgingly.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News