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Started By
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painting kitchen cabinets
Posted on 5/12/21 at 9:30 am
Posted on 5/12/21 at 9:30 am
I am in the process of modifying our kitchen island. When the house was built, the front half of the island was made with prefabricated wooden cabinets and the back was finished with studs wrapped with sheetrock. I ripped out the sheetrock and replaced with plywood in order to make it look like the shaker cabinets we have everywhere else in the kitchen. I know i will need to prime and pint the plywood i installed but will i need to sand the existing cabinets prior to priming, or will a good rub with steel wool be enough for prep work? this is what it looks like now.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 11:04 am to bayou choupique
We just painted our kitchen cabinets. I used 240 grit before priming 2 coats and 4oo grit before the finish paint (2 coats). Allow curing time in between coats.
This post was edited on 5/12/21 at 11:10 am
Posted on 5/12/21 at 11:17 am to bayou choupique
quote:
a good rub with steel wool
Do not do this. Sandpaper.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 11:24 am to BasilFawlty
quote:
Do not do this. Sandpaper.
Correct, and know that no matter how smooth the wood is prior to priming, the prime will raise the grain a bit and you will need to sand again, dust well and then apply the finish coats of paint.
Oh, and looking pretty good there.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 11:30 am to gumbo2176
quote:
Correct, and know that no matter how smooth the wood is prior to priming, the prime will raise the grain a bit and you will need to sand again, dust well and then apply the finish coats of paint.
Oh, and looking pretty good there.
Yeah that looks great. I would knock the finish off of the painted ones first. If you can find it, Shellac based primer is great on cabinets. It is what my wife uses when she paints kitchens, a little side job she's had for a while now. If you have a HVLP sprayer, even better. Most of the ones she did were going from a dark stain to a light color paint, and the Shellac primer really covers the old stain very well. You might not need it, but the finished product is really smooth when she is done with them. Use an electric sander if you have one on the raw wood. Just a medium grit pad and it will go quickly. Prime, lightly sand again, another coat of primer, then light sanding with a finer grit before the paint.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 11:50 am to bayou choupique
sand first, prime, lightly sand, then top coat
Posted on 5/12/21 at 12:04 pm to keakar
thanks for all the comments guys. The cabinets are dark, not white like he ones you see in the back. Do you think i will need two coats of primer? I do have a small electric hand help sprayer i was planning to use for this.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 12:10 pm to bayou choupique
quote:
The cabinets are dark, not white like he ones you see in the back. Do you think i will need two coats of primer? I do have a small electric hand help sprayer i was planning to use for this.
I would, or rather my wife would, do two light coats of primer. Use a very fine spray, and do slightly overlapping sprays side to side, and then come back immediately and do overlapping vertical sprays for one coat. Sand lightly, and you may have a little dark showing through. Do a second light coat just spraying in one direction and that should cover it with primer.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 2:40 pm to Bayou
quote:
What kind of wood is that?
My guess would be birch plywood and of course, finger jointed trim possibly in fir or possibly poplar since he is painting it.
This post was edited on 5/12/21 at 2:41 pm
Posted on 5/12/21 at 2:59 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
My guess would be birch plywood and of course, finger jointed trim possibly in fir or possibly poplar since he is painting it.
it is birch plywood. the jointed trim, maybe poplar?. I am just trying to keep things reasonable with the price of wood right now. it does not look the best now but all of the joints are smooth and should not be able to tell once it is painted. btw 2"x4"x8' were right at $8 each when i picked this lumber up.
This post was edited on 5/12/21 at 3:06 pm
Posted on 5/12/21 at 3:26 pm to bayou choupique
quote:
all of the joints are smooth and should not be able to tell once it is painted.
I've used a lot of finger jointed trim over the years and it is a great alternative when painting the trim. It uses wood that would normally be made into pulp or burned to make energy at mills, so it's repurposing it and making it useful to the consumer.
Buying clear trim is $$$$ even before the lumber shortage. I'd hate to see what it is costing now.
And you're right, those joints are almost flawless, and if there's any small gaps, some spackling takes car of that.
Posted on 5/12/21 at 9:19 pm to bayou choupique
on the raw wood take a 1:1 ratio of denatured alcohol and water wipe it down get it good and damp it will dry quick give it a few hours that will raise the grain then knock it down with 120 sand paper it will be easier to sand then with paint or primer on it,
Posted on 5/13/21 at 8:51 am to bayou choupique
Agree with the other posters about raising the grain first. Although that sanded birch ply or whatever you're using is typically flat, the fibers of the wood will in fact come to the surface and you'll be stuck.
Posted on 5/13/21 at 10:21 am to idlewatcher
Water popping to knock down the fibers works, but if you do light sanding between coats anyway, there's no real reason to specifically address it. I took advice from here and used shellac based, white pigmented primer. To shoot in HVLP I thinned with denatured alcohol and a little floetrol until it was watery. It took a few coats, but only because I was spraying very thin and sanding to get a smooth finish. Then followed up with Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane, thinned with water and a little floetrol. Came out great.
I would definitely sand everything to get the best results. I hand sanded and used liquid sander/deglosser to get in the nooks and crannies.
I would definitely sand everything to get the best results. I hand sanded and used liquid sander/deglosser to get in the nooks and crannies.
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