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Metal buildings
Posted on 3/20/26 at 5:47 pm
Posted on 3/20/26 at 5:47 pm
What are major things to avoid when getting a metal shop 30x30
Posted on 3/22/26 at 6:11 pm to Skip Winkman
Avoid 26 gauge, go 24g
Posted on 3/22/26 at 8:36 pm to Skip Winkman
How tall are you going and what are you going to use the shop for?
Posted on 3/23/26 at 8:00 am to WhiskeyThrottle
11 Ft Tall (Walls) Workshop and storage
Posted on 3/23/26 at 8:28 am to Boston911
quote:
Avoid 26 gauge, go 24g
You mean avoid 29 and go 26?
I've only ever known 24 to be available in standing seam.
Posted on 3/23/26 at 9:02 am to Skip Winkman
If you fish/boat, think about if you will own a boat with a T-top. Go with 12' doors if so.
220 power if you weld.
Vent fan to help with cooling
220 power if you weld.
Vent fan to help with cooling
Posted on 3/23/26 at 9:07 am to Turnblad85
You are correct as far as I know. 29 and 26 ga are the two options for R Panel.
Pretty standard to do a 1.5" drip ledge on the concrete but make sure they add the drip ledge if they don't have it planned already. I'd go out after the form workers are done and take measurements to ensure the slab is insanely square. The rest of the building's finish out is dependent on the concrete. Make sure they use weld plates. Again, it's very common for them to use them, but I've seen some crews just rely on concrete anchors drilled after concrete pouring.
What is the roof pitch on the building? Are they doing I Beam construction or is it square tube? And are they going clear span?
The building construction is relatively simple in design. Whether they go with a truss style design or just I Beam design it will hold up for most of what you throw at it.
I went with a truss style roof system. A truss style design adds a lot of vertical support to the roof. I wanted to have the option to suspend a gantry hoist across the trusses. In all honesty at this point, I don't know that I'm going to do it, but I have the option. The truss also gives you the option to get your lights a little lower than the deck. I put my lights at the bottom of the truss instead of going all the way up to the deck. I have 16' side walls though so a little further for light to travel.
What kind of doors are you going with on the building? Assume a roll up and a man door? Personally, I wouldn't want anything smaller than a 12' wide roll up door, and the wider the better IMO.
Where the garage door comes down, I wanted them to angle the transition rather than the 1.5" drop. I roll heavy some heavy stuff in and out of my shop at times and having to get over that small drop is a pain. They didn't get that done on mine so I'm about to grind the concrete down.
Pretty standard to do a 1.5" drip ledge on the concrete but make sure they add the drip ledge if they don't have it planned already. I'd go out after the form workers are done and take measurements to ensure the slab is insanely square. The rest of the building's finish out is dependent on the concrete. Make sure they use weld plates. Again, it's very common for them to use them, but I've seen some crews just rely on concrete anchors drilled after concrete pouring.
What is the roof pitch on the building? Are they doing I Beam construction or is it square tube? And are they going clear span?
The building construction is relatively simple in design. Whether they go with a truss style design or just I Beam design it will hold up for most of what you throw at it.
I went with a truss style roof system. A truss style design adds a lot of vertical support to the roof. I wanted to have the option to suspend a gantry hoist across the trusses. In all honesty at this point, I don't know that I'm going to do it, but I have the option. The truss also gives you the option to get your lights a little lower than the deck. I put my lights at the bottom of the truss instead of going all the way up to the deck. I have 16' side walls though so a little further for light to travel.
What kind of doors are you going with on the building? Assume a roll up and a man door? Personally, I wouldn't want anything smaller than a 12' wide roll up door, and the wider the better IMO.
Where the garage door comes down, I wanted them to angle the transition rather than the 1.5" drop. I roll heavy some heavy stuff in and out of my shop at times and having to get over that small drop is a pain. They didn't get that done on mine so I'm about to grind the concrete down.
Posted on 3/23/26 at 11:17 am to Skip Winkman
Make sure to go wide with your roll up door. I have trouble getting my boat in and out.
Posted on 3/23/26 at 9:38 pm to Turnblad85
quote:You are correct. I just did a standing seam roof a few months ago, 24g, did my camp in 2012 and did 26g,,,,I stand corrected
Avoid 26 gauge, go 24g
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