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Started By
Message
Home Insulation/New Windows - Advice needed
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:04 pm
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:04 pm
My house is hot as hell during the summer. I have had my AC checked by 2 different service companies, and both have said my AC is fine.
There are 2 resolutions that I am looking into:
1) Replacing my windows on my house. They are about 15ish years old. Put in the house during contruction. They constantly have condensation on them, but it's inside the glass because I can't wipe it away on either side. I don't know how expensive that will be.
2) Getting either spray in foam insulation in my attic, or more of the feathery shite. I don't know how much either is for a 1600 sq/ft house. I have someone coming over next week for a quote for foam. I have heard it's expensive.
I guess my question is if anyone has had this type of thing going on in there home. Has either solution that I mentioned helped.
My house A/C runs at 70 while we are home, and normally it can't keep up and get's to like 76 in my house which is very very warm. 2 of the rooms in my house are so hot you sweat just standing in there during the day.
At night we run the A/C at 67, and it gets cool, and comfortable, but it takes a while to get there since the house gets so hot during the day. While at work we run the a/c at 72 usually. At least that is how I have it programmed.
There are 2 resolutions that I am looking into:
1) Replacing my windows on my house. They are about 15ish years old. Put in the house during contruction. They constantly have condensation on them, but it's inside the glass because I can't wipe it away on either side. I don't know how expensive that will be.
2) Getting either spray in foam insulation in my attic, or more of the feathery shite. I don't know how much either is for a 1600 sq/ft house. I have someone coming over next week for a quote for foam. I have heard it's expensive.
I guess my question is if anyone has had this type of thing going on in there home. Has either solution that I mentioned helped.
My house A/C runs at 70 while we are home, and normally it can't keep up and get's to like 76 in my house which is very very warm. 2 of the rooms in my house are so hot you sweat just standing in there during the day.
At night we run the A/C at 67, and it gets cool, and comfortable, but it takes a while to get there since the house gets so hot during the day. While at work we run the a/c at 72 usually. At least that is how I have it programmed.
12
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:11 pm to Kracka
Where do you live?
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:32 pm to Stellytiger
Lafayette area
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:42 pm to Kracka
radient barier
insulation
get the heat out of the attic
seal every thing up
maybe pay $400.00 for a blower door test
insulation
get the heat out of the attic
seal every thing up
maybe pay $400.00 for a blower door test
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:47 pm to Kracka
I got a guy that can do your spray foam
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:47 pm to Kracka
Curious what size (tonnage) is your HVAC? What is your relative humidity like in the house - is the HVAC able to keep it near 50% RH or less during the heat of the summer with long AC runtimes?
Often the issue is HVAC is not the equipment itself but the ductwork - to small, leakage, not enough return air,... Did the HVAC companies provide a thorough examination of the ducts, sizing, leakage, etc., or did are just checked the equipment function?
Perhaps you should pay to have an energy audit done with blower door test and that would provide with information how leaky your how is with regards to air infiltration and where to direct you efforts and $$$. Companies can also conduct HVAC duct leakage tests - often the same company that does energy audits.
If you have condensation on the inside of double pane windows they have been breached but there are companies that specialize in repairing that issue cheaper than replacing the windows.
I will say at the temperatures you keep your house at, 70 and below, you are taxing the operational limits of a any properly sized HVAC system, during heat of summer. If humidity is maintained near 50% or less in the house, most people will feel more comfortable at higher temperatures.
Not saying you don’t need new windows and better insulation in your home, but before dropping that kind of $$$ on those projects I’d pay someone to do an energy audit/blower door test that will tell where to best direct your home improvement efforts.
Often the issue is HVAC is not the equipment itself but the ductwork - to small, leakage, not enough return air,... Did the HVAC companies provide a thorough examination of the ducts, sizing, leakage, etc., or did are just checked the equipment function?
Perhaps you should pay to have an energy audit done with blower door test and that would provide with information how leaky your how is with regards to air infiltration and where to direct you efforts and $$$. Companies can also conduct HVAC duct leakage tests - often the same company that does energy audits.
If you have condensation on the inside of double pane windows they have been breached but there are companies that specialize in repairing that issue cheaper than replacing the windows.
I will say at the temperatures you keep your house at, 70 and below, you are taxing the operational limits of a any properly sized HVAC system, during heat of summer. If humidity is maintained near 50% or less in the house, most people will feel more comfortable at higher temperatures.
Not saying you don’t need new windows and better insulation in your home, but before dropping that kind of $$$ on those projects I’d pay someone to do an energy audit/blower door test that will tell where to best direct your home improvement efforts.
This post was edited on 9/3/20 at 5:51 pm
Posted on 9/3/20 at 5:48 pm to Kracka
And he can answer any questions you have.
Posted on 9/3/20 at 6:02 pm to Kracka
Insulation will get you way better results than replacing windows.
Posted on 9/3/20 at 6:03 pm to CrawDude
quote:
Often the issue is HVAC is not the equipment itself but the ductwork - to small, leakage, not enough return air,... Did the HVAC companies provide a thorough examination of the ducts, sizing, leakage, etc., or did are just checked the equipment function?
Glad you asked. I had the duct work completely replaced last year.
This post was edited on 9/3/20 at 6:35 pm
Posted on 9/3/20 at 6:25 pm to Kracka
quote:
Glad you asked. I had the duct work completely replaced last year.
Did it seem to help? You mentioned two rooms so hot you sweat. You think when they replaced the ducts that they have the dampers in the ductwork properly opened and balanced? The design standard for HVAC sizing for BR and Lafayette area is 92 or 93 F to maintain an indoor temperature of 75 F and 50% RH during summer. When outdoor temperature exceeds that the HVAC can’t keep up, and we’ve been exceeding those temps lately. Your HVAC may indeed be properly sized and operating just as it’s designed to do, just not where you’d prefer it to be.
So yes, you’ll need to focus on improving insulation and perhaps windows, those 2 items are usually two biggest areas of heat gain and heat loss in a home.
Posted on 9/3/20 at 6:32 pm to CrawDude
quote:
Did it seem to help?
No, the only thing that it improved was the duct work. Which was in bad shape. It was sweating so bad it leaked into my ceiling. When they replaced it they hung it from the rafters. I have had him adjust the dampers in the rooms in question, but they have remained hot. One room is worse than the other. But they are both still warm during the day.
My hope is that the insulation will help and I won't have to replace the windows, but i am prepared to have to do both. I like the idea of the blower test. how much does something like that cost?
ETA: the book i have for my unit says 13 & 14 seer units. So it's one of those.
This post was edited on 9/3/20 at 6:57 pm
Posted on 9/3/20 at 7:30 pm to Kracka
quote:
I like the idea of the blower test. how much does something like that cost?
From what can gather in the $400-500 range. I plan on having it done at my home in the next few months so I can iD areas to reduce air infiltration and improve insulation in my house prior to replacing my aging HVAC.
Posted on 9/3/20 at 8:22 pm to Kracka
Before you spend any money, check what you’ve got....
Go into your attic with all the lights on in your house. If you see daylight below hit it with some foam.
Are all of your doors sealing properly? Fix the weather stripping if not.
Check any place that has a pipe coming through sheet rock - sinks, toilets etc. Spray some foam or caulk it. Some foam isn’t safe to use on hot pipes (gives off fumes) so be careful there.
Check that your oven vent is working properly. They can get stuck open and the air gets pulled out.
If you have recessed lighting make sure it’s insulated with “top hats” and foam around the top hat.
Get some foam insulators for electrical socket and switches. Foam around the box too.
You can also spray foam around the top cap in the attic before adding insulation.
Rent an infrared camera and walk around your house identifying hot spots and address those where needed.
If you get a window salesman they will sell windows as a solution. Same goes for insulation or HVAC. Remember, “If a man has a hammer everything is a nail”
You very well may have a problem that requires new windows or additional insulation but it’s best to address air leakage as well as it’s cheap and in some cases free.
...if one room gets hot consider blackout curtains or reflective tint on the window (foil works too if you’re trashy and DGAF).
Go into your attic with all the lights on in your house. If you see daylight below hit it with some foam.
Are all of your doors sealing properly? Fix the weather stripping if not.
Check any place that has a pipe coming through sheet rock - sinks, toilets etc. Spray some foam or caulk it. Some foam isn’t safe to use on hot pipes (gives off fumes) so be careful there.
Check that your oven vent is working properly. They can get stuck open and the air gets pulled out.
If you have recessed lighting make sure it’s insulated with “top hats” and foam around the top hat.
Get some foam insulators for electrical socket and switches. Foam around the box too.
You can also spray foam around the top cap in the attic before adding insulation.
Rent an infrared camera and walk around your house identifying hot spots and address those where needed.
If you get a window salesman they will sell windows as a solution. Same goes for insulation or HVAC. Remember, “If a man has a hammer everything is a nail”
You very well may have a problem that requires new windows or additional insulation but it’s best to address air leakage as well as it’s cheap and in some cases free.
...if one room gets hot consider blackout curtains or reflective tint on the window (foil works too if you’re trashy and DGAF).
This post was edited on 9/3/20 at 8:28 pm
Posted on 9/3/20 at 10:04 pm to Kracka
I paid $700 to have a couple guys top off my insulation. They blew in fiberglass in about an hour over 2200 sf.
Posted on 9/4/20 at 7:37 am to Kracka
quote:
1) Replacing my windows on my house. They are about 15ish years old. Put in the house during contruction. They constantly have condensation on them, but it's inside the glass because I can't wipe it away on either side. I don't know how expensive that will be.
Replacing your entire windows won't do anything for your AC usage. Your insulating glass seals are bad and allowing moisture/air to get between the glass. They still function at a high percentage of their original R-value even when the seal is bad. Right now it's just an aesthetic issue. It could become a functional issue if left unchecked for too long, but that takes a while for it to start rusting and really breaking apart.
Posted on 9/4/20 at 9:23 am to Kracka
i live in a 2300 sq ft house in denham. 16 years old. Bought it 3 years ago. Unit is a 5 ton the previous owner replaced the year before we bought the house. Our first summer was miserable and the elec bill was 420/mo.
Our living room has 6 windows almost floor to ceiling, each about 3x9. they were letting in a TON of heat. I had them replaced with LoE-366 glass. It cut out about 90% of the heat and made a HUGE difference immediately. I also changed out all weather stripping on doors, and lastly spent 2000 having 4 wind turbines installed on my roof to vent my attic. This is the second summer since having all of that done and my elec bill runs about 200/mo during the summer and our house is infinitely more comfortable. we run our house on 74 during the day and 72 at night. It will freeze you outta there now at 72.
Good luck!
Our living room has 6 windows almost floor to ceiling, each about 3x9. they were letting in a TON of heat. I had them replaced with LoE-366 glass. It cut out about 90% of the heat and made a HUGE difference immediately. I also changed out all weather stripping on doors, and lastly spent 2000 having 4 wind turbines installed on my roof to vent my attic. This is the second summer since having all of that done and my elec bill runs about 200/mo during the summer and our house is infinitely more comfortable. we run our house on 74 during the day and 72 at night. It will freeze you outta there now at 72.
Good luck!
Posted on 9/4/20 at 10:56 am to Kracka
If you add attic insulation, cap with blown cellulose and not fiberglass.
Posted on 9/4/20 at 11:43 am to FishinTygah84
quote:
we run our house on 74 during the day and 72 at night. It will freeze you outta there now at 72.
If I had my way, this is what I would like.
Posted on 9/4/20 at 1:16 pm to Kracka
quote:
If I had my way, this is what I would like
I received this email article yesterday on the consequences of keeping one’s home cold in summer, particularly relevant to those that live in hot, humid climates like we do in LA. Ten Consequences of Keeping Your Home Really Cold in Summer. The author is a building consultant with a Ph.D. In Physics and lives in Atlanta. Many good short articles on his blog.
If it’s your better half likes it’s colder than you, have her read the article. I also maintain 74 F in day, and usually 73, sometimes 72 F at bedtime. Humidity in the house rarely exceeds 50% in summer - comfortable for me.
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