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Flooring Installation Advice
Posted on 10/17/19 at 9:28 am
Posted on 10/17/19 at 9:28 am
Home improvement experts, I am in the process of adding on to / renovating my home. Contractor has agreed to let me install the flooring myself. Current flooring in the living and dining room of the house is a LVT made by Coretec, and I have been very happy with it. Plan is to remove tile in my kitchen and extend the LVT through my kitchen and into the addition, which includes a master bathroom (flooring has cork underlayment).
Questions:
1) Should the flooring be installed under cabinets?
2) Bathroom will have a freestanding tub (sits flat on floor); should flooring be installed under tub?
Any other tips / pointers?
Thanks in advance!
Questions:
1) Should the flooring be installed under cabinets?
2) Bathroom will have a freestanding tub (sits flat on floor); should flooring be installed under tub?
Any other tips / pointers?
Thanks in advance!
5
Posted on 10/17/19 at 10:09 am to tigerbater
Do not install under the cabinets.
Not necessary to install under the tub but not sure how you will install the flooring between the tub and wall. I am assuming there is a gap there since it’s a free standing tub. Also, there will be a gap between the flooring and the tub foot unless you are damn good at fitting. Not sure what type of trim you can use to hide the gap like you can for cabinets.
Not necessary to install under the tub but not sure how you will install the flooring between the tub and wall. I am assuming there is a gap there since it’s a free standing tub. Also, there will be a gap between the flooring and the tub foot unless you are damn good at fitting. Not sure what type of trim you can use to hide the gap like you can for cabinets.
This post was edited on 10/17/19 at 5:19 pm
Posted on 10/17/19 at 12:25 pm to gumbeaux
OP, how you going to match the new with the old? Any time when one gets new floor, you always make sure that you buy the same lot number which is all the same run. That way you have a match.
Posted on 10/17/19 at 3:48 pm to fishfighter
Good question. I am purchasing the same shade; however I do know that they have changed the interlock on the panels. The company I am using sells a transition strip that I plan to use.
Posted on 10/17/19 at 5:57 pm to tigerbater
Color and texture might not match. Just a heads up. 
Posted on 10/19/19 at 9:11 am to tigerbater
Just got building my house. I installed Vinyl planks throughout before cabinets and baseboards. So I did under my cabinets and freestanding tub. I did this because I didn’t want any shoebase
Posted on 10/19/19 at 9:25 am to tigerbater
quote:
1) Should the flooring be installed under cabinets?
No
quote:
2) Bathroom will have a freestanding tub (sits flat on floor); should flooring be installed under tub?
Probably, but will look different if you ever expose it again by moving the tub to against the wall, etc.
Posted on 10/19/19 at 3:25 pm to tigerbater
quote:
Plan is to remove tile in my kitchen
Hope you own or are renting a good demolition hammer with a sharp tile spade bit.
What are you cutting the LVT planks with? I just finished a LVT install and the best tool for going around corners and cutting the bulk of door and cased opening jams is a Dremel Ultra Saw. Put new, but inexpensive carbide blades in whatever table or miter saw you plan to use too. I have Pergo blades in mine but that's a bit pricey for one job.
Posted on 10/20/19 at 4:24 pm to Clames
LVT will easily cut with an old worn blade. And even a Harbor Freight oscillating multitool will excel for undercutting casing and jams.
What's the tile installed on?
Hint: it's often much easier to remove in large pieces using 2 or 3 large crowbars prying on top of joists (depending of type of installation).
What's the tile installed on?
Hint: it's often much easier to remove in large pieces using 2 or 3 large crowbars prying on top of joists (depending of type of installation).
Posted on 10/21/19 at 9:13 am to awestruck
Thanks everyone for the info. Got most of the old tile removed over the weekend and it wasn't too bad. I broke the old tile up with a ball and pin hammer and then used a crowbar and a shovel to remove the hardie board. Hardie board was on top of some old vinyl flooring that came up easily with a shovel and then there was some other membrane underneath that came up easily. Worst part was getting all the nails out. My sub floor was in really good shape, so that's a relief.
The LVT I currently have is about $5.25 a square foot. It would be cheaper for me to pull up what I have and just put laminate floors throughout (~$2 sq/ft for the stuff at Costco) the existing and new parts of the house; however, I would not be able to put the laminate in my bathroom. Also, I have some concerns with putting the laminate in my existing living area as the house is not completely flat, although the existing home was leveled in 2015--not sure if this is an actual concern, but the LVT planks are 72" long and less rigid so they contour to the floor better than laminate planks.
Any thoughts on this?
The LVT I currently have is about $5.25 a square foot. It would be cheaper for me to pull up what I have and just put laminate floors throughout (~$2 sq/ft for the stuff at Costco) the existing and new parts of the house; however, I would not be able to put the laminate in my bathroom. Also, I have some concerns with putting the laminate in my existing living area as the house is not completely flat, although the existing home was leveled in 2015--not sure if this is an actual concern, but the LVT planks are 72" long and less rigid so they contour to the floor better than laminate planks.
Any thoughts on this?
Posted on 10/21/19 at 9:23 am to awestruck
quote:
LVT will easily cut with an old worn blade. And even a Harbor Freight oscillating multitool will excel for undercutting casing and jams.
It will for some pieces for a room or two. The oxide in the top coating wears out carbide blades far quicker than normal usage in wood or MDF. I just did a nearly whole house's worth of LVT and the 12" Irwin construction blade I put on my miter saw in place of the trim blade shows noticeable dulling. That's why I also have PCD-tipped Pergo blades, hundreds of cuts in engineered flooring and no sign of dulling. I have a Rigid, Dremel, and Porter-Cable oscillating tools, I use them to finish what the Ultra Saw doesn’t quite reach.
Posted on 11/20/19 at 6:11 am to tigerbater
Consider buying 10% more tile for overrage and extra tiles. You will break some or may need an extra tile or two down the road.
Good luck and show us pics of the final product!
Good luck and show us pics of the final product!
Posted on 11/20/19 at 7:01 am to Clames
phluckit... (will just refile this under 
)
Was just trying to help a doit yourself not spend an arm and a leg.
) Was just trying to help a doit yourself not spend an arm and a leg.
This post was edited on 11/21/19 at 12:15 am
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