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Started By
Message
re: Engineered vs. Real wood flooring
Posted on 7/30/19 at 2:56 pm to BlastOff
Posted on 7/30/19 at 2:56 pm to BlastOff
You should do engineered
Get one that has a thick top piece that can be sanded a few times in case you ever needed to do that to repair damage but hopefully will not
They call it engineered because they use many layers below the top finished pirce and they alternate the pattern of the layers natural wood grain
This way should it get wet you have a hope that when it dries the various grain direction all pull in different directions and you do not get cupping etc
It does work but if course depends on the wetness .. a complete flood no but missed leak from pipe that you caught early yes
The key is pay for it and get good stuff
Thick top piece that can be sanded a few times
And many sub layers
I have acacia wood which is hard and a thick top layer
I think mine is 13 layers total I am not sure but was most they offered
Look at simplefloors.com
My floor guy said I got a better deal than he could get me a loved my floors
So I ordered it and had them drop it in my garage then my floor installer came over and put it in
Good luck
Get one that has a thick top piece that can be sanded a few times in case you ever needed to do that to repair damage but hopefully will not
They call it engineered because they use many layers below the top finished pirce and they alternate the pattern of the layers natural wood grain
This way should it get wet you have a hope that when it dries the various grain direction all pull in different directions and you do not get cupping etc
It does work but if course depends on the wetness .. a complete flood no but missed leak from pipe that you caught early yes
The key is pay for it and get good stuff
Thick top piece that can be sanded a few times
And many sub layers
I have acacia wood which is hard and a thick top layer
I think mine is 13 layers total I am not sure but was most they offered
Look at simplefloors.com
My floor guy said I got a better deal than he could get me a loved my floors
So I ordered it and had them drop it in my garage then my floor installer came over and put it in
Good luck
0
Posted on 7/30/19 at 3:33 pm to Hooligan's Ghost
That's what I ripped up 
No problems with bamboo though. The finish just seems soft for having a dog.
No problems with bamboo though. The finish just seems soft for having a dog.
Posted on 7/30/19 at 6:38 pm to fightin tigers
I thought it would be soft too, but so far none of my furniture has left a mark
"Despite its lowly reputation, bamboo may be the strongest stuff on the planet. It has greater tensile strength (or resistance to being pulled apart) than steel, and it withstands compression better than concrete"
I don't know if that has any bearing on scratchability
"Despite its lowly reputation, bamboo may be the strongest stuff on the planet. It has greater tensile strength (or resistance to being pulled apart) than steel, and it withstands compression better than concrete"
I don't know if that has any bearing on scratchability
Posted on 7/30/19 at 7:10 pm to Hooligan's Ghost
I was only talking about scratching the finish. Never was able to dent it or mess it up other than that.
Posted on 7/30/19 at 7:14 pm to fightin tigers
If you have hardwood floors you should get some of those pads to stick on the bottom of your furniture.
Lowes sells them I think. They are sticky on one side and like thick felt on the other.
Makes moving furniture around a breeze and no worries of scratching.
Come in all shapes and you can cut to fit.
Lowes sells them I think. They are sticky on one side and like thick felt on the other.
Makes moving furniture around a breeze and no worries of scratching.
Come in all shapes and you can cut to fit.
This post was edited on 7/30/19 at 7:16 pm
Posted on 7/30/19 at 7:36 pm to NATidefan
My scratches came from a beagle. We had socks on her for a while, but turned into too much problem. Everything I havr has some sort of cushion on the bottom.
Moved into a house with longleaf pine and it never had a problem. Apparently whatever it is sealed with was the problem.
Moved into a house with longleaf pine and it never had a problem. Apparently whatever it is sealed with was the problem.
This post was edited on 7/30/19 at 7:37 pm
Posted on 7/30/19 at 8:00 pm to fightin tigers
Janka hardness scale may help you
Google it on images
It has all the ordinary wood types and their hardness rating
Google it on images
It has all the ordinary wood types and their hardness rating
Posted on 7/30/19 at 8:04 pm to Thecoz
Wood hardness isn't the only factor though. The finish you choose matters.
Or at least what I have learned the last few weeks.
Or at least what I have learned the last few weeks.
Posted on 7/30/19 at 8:11 pm to fightin tigers
FYI tried paw socks on my old lab once cause she was so old she needed help with traction to keep her legs from slipping out from under her
They were a great idea but in practices did not work for me either
Always falling off or getting twisted around on her paws
They were a great idea but in practices did not work for me either
Always falling off or getting twisted around on her paws
Posted on 7/30/19 at 9:07 pm to BlastOff
If you can afford real wood (oak) then it’s a no brainer. The real problem is finding a competent installer. If you go with real wood look into a coating that is used for gym floors. I think it’s called gym coat.
Posted on 7/30/19 at 9:18 pm to Hammertime
Better tolerance for humility?? Drop a gallon of water on it and get back with me
Posted on 7/31/19 at 5:05 am to joeleblanc
If you haven’t done so yet, do yourself a favor and check out some of the new LVP or SPC Flooring. It’s a laminate option, but you cannot tell it’s laminate. It’s pretty impressive stuff! Waterproof, scratch resistant and a lot of it comes with a lifetime warranty
Posted on 7/31/19 at 7:39 am to Lion4Life
quote:
do yourself a favor and check out some of the new LVP or SPC Flooring
I've checked out every type of flooring under the sun, think we're putting LVP down in our lowest level that's on a slab.
But I'm looking to do a reno on the LR/DR/Kitchen that is house age appropriate, you don't go into older NO homes and see LVP on the floor. Not worried about scratches, no pets. Seems like 1/2 of y'all are saying EW, and 1/2 hardwood.
Posted on 7/31/19 at 11:11 am to BlastOff
Curious as to the cost of LVP vs real wood. real wood will last through your lifetime.
Posted on 7/31/19 at 11:20 am to fightin tigers
quote:
Wood hardness isn't the only factor though. The finish you choose matters.
Or at least what I have learned the last few weeks.
and on that topic dark stains look great but they don't hide scratches or dirt at all. Everything shows up on them. Lighter stains hide everything so much better.
Posted on 7/31/19 at 11:35 am to BlastOff
quote:
Seems like 1/2 of y'all are saying EW, and 1/2 hardwood. ?
They both have advantages and disadvantages. It's really up to you.
If you want the classic old look for an old home with the feel of solid wood. Go with solid wood.
Posted on 7/31/19 at 11:57 am to BlastOff
quote:
Seems like 1/2 of y'all are saying EW, and 1/2 hardwood. ?
Ask ten people, get 12 opinions ;)
Just a tip while you're doing your research, you are looking at engineered vs solid (not engineered vs hardwood, they're both considered hardwood.)
More decisions regardless of engineered or solid:
- species
- cut (rift, quartersawn, plain)
- board widths and lengths
- prefinished vs site finished
- type of finish (especially if site finished; you may be more limited if going with pre-finished unless you go custom)
- stain
- surface "treatments", stuff like "handscraped" or "distressed" or "wire-brushed"
If engineered, a few more decisions (wear/veneer layer, total thickness, type of core)
Have fun. I spent many hours researching before placing my order last week. Hoping I'll be happy with them for the next 40+ years.
Posted on 7/31/19 at 12:44 pm to NATidefan
My hand chiseled acacia looks like it is out of an English pub
You can get any look you want
Just depends on cost
A side question
I hear some of y’all say solid hardwood holds up better
Unless you really are hard on floors that is a lot of top wood to destroy on the engineered and the top layer is the same as the top few centimeters of solid wood
Why do y’all say solid last a longer than engineered I am not destroying my top layer of hardwood on the engineered.
My engineered is over 14 years and looks new
My worry is water
Does solid survive a flood or broken pipe better
I assumed both would be destroyed in that case?
You can get any look you want
Just depends on cost
A side question
I hear some of y’all say solid hardwood holds up better
Unless you really are hard on floors that is a lot of top wood to destroy on the engineered and the top layer is the same as the top few centimeters of solid wood
Why do y’all say solid last a longer than engineered I am not destroying my top layer of hardwood on the engineered.
My engineered is over 14 years and looks new
My worry is water
Does solid survive a flood or broken pipe better
I assumed both would be destroyed in that case?
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